bjones1972 Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 I have the Cherry Burst finish...has anyone else noticed that the binding around the body has a yellowish tint to it? Is this supposed to look this way? This is the first LP I've ever owned, so I'm kind of new to the world of the LP guitar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Moore Tribute Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 I have the Cherry Burst finish...has anyone else noticed that the binding around the body has a yellowish tint to it? Is this supposed to look this way? This is the first LP I've ever owned, so I'm kind of new to the world of the LP guitar. Welcome I have a 1959 (the same in some respects) it also has a slightly yellowish colour to the binding, I would class it as "Cream" tho. This is the standard binding colour found on GIBSONS, I will say tho that on normal Epi Les Pauls they have a lighter cream colour to them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitmore Willy Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Bjones, Welcome to the forum.... How 'bout some pics? As to the binding. I don't know about the Tribute. (wish I had one) What I can tell you is that I do have a LP Standard from 2005. It is a blue burst. The bindings on mine were somewhat yellowed. (aged looking) Many of the same ones that year where bleach white. Personally, I like the the slightly aged (cream) look. But, to each their own. The bindings on mine have just sightly less of an aged look than my 76 Gibson Custom. Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pennyman Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Trans black here, and yes, the binding has a yellowish tint to it. Gives it an "aged" look, better than if it were pure white, IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjones1972 Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 Ok..so my next question: How can I use my serial number on the Tribute to figure out where and when my guitar was made? And as for pics...well, I'll have to figure out how to upload...the board for some reason doesn't like Flickr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Moore Tribute Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Ok..so my next question: How can I use my serial number on the Tribute to figure out where and when my guitar was made? And as for pics...well, I'll have to figure out how to upload...the board for some reason doesn't like Flickr. YYMMFFRRRRR -- new model codes, no letter prefix Beginning 2008-09 models are appearing w/o a letter prefix to i.d. the factory. Based on what is reported so far, it appears that the serial code may be: YY = first two digits = year of manufacture MM = second two digits = month of manufature FF = third two digits = factory i.d. where made -- the factory code #s identified so far are shown in red print below RRRRR = remaining digits = ranking number -- example 08121520333 was made in December 2008, factory 15, 2 unknown significance, 0333 unit produced Thats the best bet http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/54419-id-your-epiphone-here-serial-key-guitardater-link-factory-codes-a-worldwide-guide-%26gt%3Bpart-3/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigneil Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 i prefer the vintage look cream binding too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pennyman Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 YYMMFFRRRRR -- new model codes, no letter prefix Beginning 2008-09 models are appearing w/o a letter prefix to i.d. the factory. Based on what is reported so far, it appears that the serial code may be: YY = first two digits = year of manufacture MM = second two digits = month of manufature FF = third two digits = factory i.d. where made -- the factory code #s identified so far are shown in red print below RRRRR = remaining digits = ranking number -- example 08121520333 was made in December 2008, factory 15, 2 unknown significance, 0333 unit produced Thats the best bet http://forum.gibson....%26gt%3Bpart-3/ This method doesn't seem to apply to the Tribute models. Their serial #s begin with F#####... The "F" used to indicate Fujigen, Japan, as factory of origin, but not in this case. The Tribs are definitely made in China, but nobody's been able to figure out what the "F" means. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Moore Tribute Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 Ah then it IS like mine F301### its also STAMPED into the headstock like a Gibson. Mine was made in China so your best bet is "Qingdao" as the likely factory BUT they would have been finished off and setup in the USA "F" as has been said USED to refer to Fujigen factory in Japan & One factory in Korea But the reality is that the F's are now just used for these limited Run models So for those that are on here lets just confirm those using F###### serials _/ - 1959 _/ - Tribute X - Bonamassa (Standard Serial) _/ - 1960 X - Slash "Appetite for Destruction" (Standard Serial) Any help appreciated Update So far it only seems to be used on the Vintage models based on the 50/60's designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjones1972 Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 I'm sort of torn here about a couple of things concerning my LP...first off, the finish is slightly spotty in places and has light scratches that really can only be seen when shifting the body in the light. Not a deal breaker, because any guitar that gets played regularly is going to develop blemishes...and again, these aren't terribly noticeable. The one unsettling thing about this guitar, to me, is the headstock. Looking at the back, it seems that the headstock is a separate piece from the neck. I've not examined a Gibby LP up close, but I wonder just how durable this type of construction is...or maybe I'm just concerning myself with a non issue. The one thing keeping me from sending it back to MF because of the finish and fractionally off kilter knobs is the sound. This thing has a tonal palette that is unbelievable. The 57 Classics and the sustain are like buttah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Moore Tribute Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 I'm sort of torn here about a couple of things concerning my LP...first off, the finish is slightly spotty in places and has light scratches that really can only be seen when shifting the body in the light. Not a deal breaker, because any guitar that gets played regularly is going to develop blemishes...and again, these aren't terribly noticeable. The one unsettling thing about this guitar, to me, is the headstock. Looking at the back, it seems that the headstock is a separate piece from the neck. I've not examined a Gibby LP up close, but I wonder just how durable this type of construction is...or maybe I'm just concerning myself with a non issue. The one thing keeping me from sending it back to MF because of the finish and fractionally off kilter knobs is the sound. This thing has a tonal palette that is unbelievable. The 57 Classics and the sustain are like buttah. The headstock on a Les Paul are almost always 2 seperate parts glued together in a V at the end of the neck, depending on which finish you have it, varies in how obvious it is. Because its an angled neck it can't really be made in 1 part for strength "Wood grain" concerns. Finally the neck is as durable as the last its weekpoint is the volute under the truss rod cover between the 2 wood pieces and is NORMAL. The only way your going to get a stronger neck is with a Sraight neck guitar like a Fender and some vintage Epiphones for example. so don't worry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.