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A "new" bass from gibson


rd_artist

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I had a '77 RD Artist and it certainly was a serious hunk of wood, all maple, so if they kept the spec this will follow. The neck was a little clubby but not uncomfortably so. I'd be curious to know whether they maintained that or slimmed it down (modernized it).

 

I didn't go for the Mood electronics suite very much (it certainly made for some interesting tones) but I must say I really did like the sound of the pickups themselves. Very clean and full, like a P bass but not, and they sat in the mix very well.

 

I hope whatever they've put in this reissue achieve similar results.

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I'd really like to hear an all maple Gibson. I wonder if Guitar Center will actually stock one of these. In the 70s, I had a Ric which was all maple, and I loved it back then. I was in Akron a couple of weeks ago and played a new one, and wow - I really did not like anything about it - not the neck, the way it played, and especially the sound. It seemed to put out a ton of mids that I could not correct with the eq on the amp; I could not make that thing sound good. One great thing: I don't miss my Ric anymore. So this new all maple Gibby will be interesting. I hope it sounds as great as it looks. [love]

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I had a '77 RD Artist and it certainly was a serious hunk of wood, all maple, so if they kept the spec this will follow. The neck was a little clubby but not uncomfortably so. I'd be curious to know whether they maintained that or slimmed it down (modernized it).

 

I didn't go for the Mood electronics suite very much (it certainly made for some interesting tones) but I must say I really did like the sound of the pickups themselves. Very clean and full, like a P bass but not, and they sat in the mix very well.

 

I hope whatever they've put in this reissue achieve similar results.

 

I haven't felt a neck on an original, but this neck feels similar to a P-bass neck...with a volute.

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I haven't felt a neck on an original, but this neck feels similar to a P-bass neck...with a volute.

 

Sounds like they stuck to the original spec (or close to it).

 

On a lateral note (my 2 cents), I've found that Fender has added variations within itself, so saying something feels like a P (which was pretty self explanatory at one point) is no longer that obvious. It's become "P like" vs a J for example (and they have their own variations). I get pretty confused because the new stuff all feels a little different unless you pick up one of the RI's. It seems each decade has produced a profile - from what I can see the LP's (guitars) are similarly shaded.

 

Anyway, the '77 RD I had was P-ish with a rounded profile, but being basically flat boarded made it easier to handle. I did like it but GAS is a pernicious thing, so between the weight and the size of it overall it had to go. It sure did sound good though. Like I said, I hope this RI retains that part of it.

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Good info. I have a 1998 P-bass and a 2008 P-bass both USA and the necks are very similar.

 

Yeah, I would think those would still be pretty close. The USA Standards have gotten back to the more traditional shape people expected from the 70's. But, for example, you play an '83 AmStd and the neck has the width of a 60's (1 3/4") with the thickness of a 70's (clubbier vs flat C).

 

I had an '83 Std and 2 Elite II's with that profile and I had to flip them all because they were actually uncomfortable. Large enough that my hand hurt after a gig(I have short fingers).

 

I had a P Deluxe that seemed to meld somewhere between a J and a P. I have no experience with the MIM or Squier stuff so I can't comment of where they are in all this.

 

I currently have a '76 P. I also have a '70 Tele (which was meant to be like a reissue of the '51) and the '76 profile is noticeably thicker. The flatter profile of the Tele shows another aspect of where the P was originally.

 

Ultimately it's whatever sells.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Kirst Novoselic signature bass

 

Well this seems interesting,too bad they won't have it in sunburst

 

the real thing.

 

DCP_0022.jpg

 

I finally had a chance to try one of these last night at GC. The action could've been better. I can't understand why they do not routinely check their instrument's setup. I picked up 3 basses besides this and they were not in the best presentation mode at all. The action on one of the vintage pieces [north of $8K] was basically unplayable. I would think that if you want people to drop some real money on a new instrument you'd have everything presented in its best light. That's for another thread. Anyway, it was on the high side but workable.

 

Having said that, it is still a serious piece of wood. The neck profile felt very true to the '77 Artist I had. Meaty, but not uncomfortably so - I liked it. The fit and finish looked pretty good too (black doesn't show blems easily anyway).

 

Soundwise: I was playing at a reasonable store/room level through an Ampeg and the J Basslines/passive VVT setup sounded pretty good. Like a Jazz bass, but it did remind me of the Artist running without all the Moog circuits kicked in. Rolling off the tone knob gave a similar tone. Overall impression, not a bad bass at all. I don't know that I'd drop $1500 on one, but down the line a used one would be a good value.

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  • 1 month later...

May i pick up this thread with just a question: the bridge of the RDs is the traditonal 3 point bridge. Therefore it is possible to mount strings through the body as well as direcly in the bridge. This would lead to a very different loading of the body by the string tension.

 

Does anyone of the (former) RD owners know if there is an audible difference between the two mounting options (aside from the intonation problems inherent to the bridge if strings are mounted there)?

 

Will that affect attack or sustain?

 

(Background: for people being able to use a drilling machine that might be an easy improvement for other instruments with that kind of bridge)

 

THX

 

Beate

 

who would consider buying an RD reissue bass if it was short or medium scale, had a more friendly color (natural maple or sunburst...) and better pickups. Well, at least the latter could be easily changed.

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I agree. I've strung numerous basses both ways - there was no noticeable difference other than the PITA created by going through the body and having to find suitable strings that were long enough. I prefer through bridge because for me there is no realized benefit going through the body.

 

Once the string breaks over the saddle at a sufficient angle it doesn't matter whether it's through the body or not.

On a parallel - same for nut material. Once a nut is properly cut and the instrument set up you will not hear a difference between materials.

 

Of course there are people who say they hear a difference. Your mileage may vary as well.

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Thanks for the replies.

 

So i may conclude that the single but important point for string thru is the intonation problem of the 3d bridge when bridge mounting is used. Or is it mounted in the RD such that the saddles need to be adjusted closer to the pickup side of the bridge than it is in the EB-Basses?

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I have never had an intonation issue with the 3 point bridge, I have 2 other basses with the 3 point bridge and they are intonated just fine.

 

Mhmm, intonation problems on the lower strings seem to be pretty well known.

They are, of course to some degree dependent on the strings. On my EB3-clone (the white one on my avatar picture) they are pretty severe for the E using d'Addario halfrounds and not significant using Pyramid Nickel roundwound. All of the shortscales. Our Epi Explorer intonates just fine as well.

 

In the net reports mostly seem to concern (original) EBs and the SG bass.

 

Anyway, the most imortant question has been that on the effect of the string mounting option on the sound on RD basses.

 

Back to those: i like the shape. Mostly in its all maple variant. That's why will build my own replica, however shortscale.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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