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Epiphone Dot Studio


eindecker

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Hey all.. New to the forums, and Epiphone guitars actually. I recently purchased an Epiphone Dot Studio (Worn Brown finish) from Guitar center, and I'm in love with it. I saw it online about a year ago and instantly fell in love with it's bare bones, no frills, "clean" look. I had been in the market for a hollow body for some time now, and at that price point, (especially with the killer coupon they had sent me) the purchase was a no-brainer. I had spent a good amount of time pouring over reviews on the web before I purchased it, and was aware of the few flaws that it suffers from and was prepared to experience some, if not all of them. Well, all is well, except for one thing: I can't get rid of the buzz on the low E around the third fret. I've adjusted the action and re-strung with lighter gauge strings (which I would have done regardless of buzzing) and still it's there. Most of the reviews I had read ahead of time said that one, if not the combo of the two, would rid my new fiddle of this annoyance, and it did cut a good amount out, but it's still there. I've been arguing with myself about fooling with the truss rod. Even though I've been playing on and off for almost twenty years now, it's a process I've never undertaken. (I've had my guitars "set-up" professionally in the past) Do you think I could handle setting up the truss rod myself, or should I take it to the shop? (I'm actually very handy, as I've been in the building/service trades my whole life) But I've also heard horror stories about people fooling with their truss rods without any knowledge of what it is they are actually doing. Any suggestions?

 

(sorry about the long winded post guys)

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Welcome to the forum!

Adjusting the truss rod isn't complicated but you really need to take your time and do it right.

If you go to the "Epiphone Lounge" forum there is a DIY thread that can certainly get you on the right track. Lots of useful info. The main thing to remember when you adjust the TR is DONT over do it. I usually turn the adjustment 1/4 of a turn at a time and wait about 1/2 hr to see how it looks and feels. The DIY section will walk you through the process. Also, I just went to 11's(DR pure blues) on my Dot and it plays better than when I had 9's on it, but thats just my personal opinion. Best of luck

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Welcome to the forum!

Adjusting the truss rod isn't complicated but you really need to take your time and do it right.

If you go to the "Epiphone Lounge" forum there is a DIY thread that can certainly get you on the right track. Lots of useful info. The main thing to remember when you adjust the TR is DONT over do it. I usually turn the adjustment 1/4 of a turn at a time and wait about 1/2 hr to see how it looks and feels. The DIY section will walk you through the process. Also, I just went to 11's(DR pure blues) on my Dot and it plays better than when I had 9's on it, but thats just my personal opinion. Best of luck

 

Thanks for the reply, I'll be taking a look there. (uh-oh, looks like the link has been removed)

I guess the second part of my question would be: Is it a good chance that setting the truss rod would take the buzz out? And what size key would I use? Are they fairly standard in size or do they vary from model to model?

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Thanks for the reply, I'll be taking a look there. (uh-oh, looks like the link has been removed)

I guess the second part of my question would be: Is it a good chance that setting the truss rod would take the buzz out? And what size key would I use? Are they fairly standard in size or do they vary from model to model?

Setting the TR may eliminate the buzz. Could also be a problem with the nut.Try this:

http://www.fretnotgu...m/trussrods.htm

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Hi.. you didn't state whether the guitar is new or used. Other than a truss rod adjustment, you might try placing a flat edge on the frets, to see if there is a high spot.

Something flat could be a small steel rule, or a face of a small square.. and if you detect any rocking motion (over several frets) it could be due to a fret that's too high.

 

Truss rod adjustments aren't particularly difficult or potentially damaging if someone hasn't already over-adjusted it.. just being careful/aware of gradual adjustment changes are what's important, as has been suggested.

As pointed out, there are instructions and recommended measurements available.

 

If the guitar is new, the dealer should take care of any flaws, even if you didn't purchase an extra insurance policy/warranty from the dealer. Epiphone instruments are sold with a Limited Lifetime Warranty (original purchaser from an authorized seller).

When a dealer starts babbling about a fault with a new product, let them know that a full refund is the only option.. new product purchasing rights vary from state to state, but one thing dealers fully understand is cash in their registers.

 

Regards,

Bill

 

 

 

Hey all.. New to the forums, and Epiphone guitars actually. I recently purchased an Epiphone Dot Studio (Worn Brown finish) from Guitar center, and I'm in love with it. I saw it online about a year ago and instantly fell in love with it's bare bones, no frills, "clean" look. I had been in the market for a hollow body for some time now, and at that price point, (especially with the killer coupon they had sent me) the purchase was a no-brainer. I had spent a good amount of time pouring over reviews on the web before I purchased it, and was aware of the few flaws that it suffers from and was prepared to experience some, if not all of them. Well, all is well, except for one thing: I can't get rid of the buzz on the low E around the third fret. I've adjusted the action and re-strung with lighter gauge strings (which I would have done regardless of buzzing) and still it's there. Most of the reviews I had read ahead of time said that one, if not the combo of the two, would rid my new fiddle of this annoyance, and it did cut a good amount out, but it's still there. I've been arguing with myself about fooling with the truss rod. Even though I've been playing on and off for almost twenty years now, it's a process I've never undertaken. (I've had my guitars "set-up" professionally in the past) Do you think I could handle setting up the truss rod myself, or should I take it to the shop? (I'm actually very handy, as I've been in the building/service trades my whole life) But I've also heard horror stories about people fooling with their truss rods without any knowledge of what it is they are actually doing. Any suggestions?

 

(sorry about the long winded post guys)

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Eindecker,

 

Most Epiphones use a 4mm Hex/Allen wrench.

 

Truss rod adjust info with link to a setup page:

http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/75422-brand-new-epiphone-les-paul-tribute-with-bowed-neck/page__view__findpost__p__1027806

 

DIY:

http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/51292-the-d0-it-yourself-thread-look-here-for-tech-related-questions/

 

Check fret level at 3rd Fret.....Use a credit card as a fret rocker:

 

 

Willy

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you may also want to put a straight edge on the frets. you may just have a high fret that needs to be crowned... i have a dot standard and a a dot like yours. theres no comparing the two to be honest the one you have is cheaply made. what im using mine fore requires me to make some changes and i realised how cheply made it was . so it wouldnt surprise me if you have a high fret or two or need a trus rod ajustment . what you may want to get it

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GUITAR-NECK-STRAIGHT-EDGE-Notched-LUTHIERS-TOOL-/250828799136?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item3a668fbca0

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Guitar-Fret-Level-Rocker-Tool-Luthiers-Tools-/260862802757?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item3cbca27b45

 

and check out the dyi section as mentioned above.. these tools i listed will tell you the true straightness and relief of your neck and if you have a high fret... its easy to do just take your time...

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You said in your original post that you had also gone to a lighter guage set of strings.

This can be part of the problem, as a lighter set does not put as much tension on the neck. This might, and usually does, cause the neck to straighten out or even have a bit of "Backbow". That in turn can cause buzz.

 

I could go through a whole setup here, but the info is in the DIY section of the Epi Lounge. If you are truly interested in getting to know how to set up your guitars, I highly reccommend a couple of books from Stewmac.com.

 

1. How To Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great

2. Guitar Player Guide To Repair

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Hi.. you didn't state whether the guitar is new or used.

 

 

If the guitar is new, the dealer should take care of any flaws, even if you didn't purchase an extra insurance policy/warranty from the dealer. Epiphone instruments are sold with a Limited Lifetime Warranty (original purchaser from an authorized seller).

 

Thanks Bill...

 

Yeah, neglected to mention that the Guitar I bought was new. So, If I took it back to Guitar Center and told them about it, they should make good on a setup or such?

 

you may also want to put a straight edge on the frets. you may just have a high fret that needs to be crowned... i have a dot standard and a a dot like yours...

<snip>

...and check out the dyi section as mentioned above.. these tools i listed will tell you the true straightness and relief of your neck and if you have a high fret... its easy to do just take your time...

 

Yeah, unfortunately, like I said in a previous post, I think the link for truss rod adjustment in the DIY section seems to have been removed, (just my luck, just when I need it, [tongue] ) but I'm sure I can find more info elsewhere online... Is there any reason I can't just use my framing square and straight-edge in place of these "specialized" tools? I know them to be true...

Now, if I find that a fret or two is high, is this something I can rectify myself? Again, I'm very handy and take instruction well, but I don't want to ruin a brand new guitar either...

 

You said in your original post that you had also gone to a lighter guage set of strings.

This can be part of the problem, as a lighter set does not put as much tension on the neck. This might, and usually does, cause the neck to straighten out or even have a bit of "Backbow". That in turn can cause buzz.

 

I could go through a whole setup here, but the info is in the DIY section of the Epi Lounge. If you are truly interested in getting to know how to set up your guitars, I highly reccommend a couple of books from Stewmac.com.

 

1. How To Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great

2. Guitar Player Guide To Repair

 

 

Hmm.. I always used to use Super Slinkys, but in the last year or so switched to Regular Slinkys.. are they not heavy enough? Is this not prudent? Should I not set it up to handle lighter strings, or should I be using a heavier gauge on this guitar? (again, this is my first hollow body, so I don't know of there are any special "rules of thumb" for them) Thanks for the recommended reads.. I'll definitely take a look at them, and maybe even purchase them if my Library doesn't have them in...

 

Thanks again for the answers and patience... you'd think I'd know more about guitars for as long as I've been playing, but again, it's an on again-off again relationship I've had most of my life... 8-[

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Thanks Bill...

 

Yeah, neglected to mention that the Guitar I bought was new. So, If I took it back to Guitar Center and told them about it, they should make good on a setup or such?

 

 

 

Yeah, unfortunately, like I said in a previous post, I think the link for truss rod adjustment in the DIY section seems to have been removed, (just my luck, just when I need it, [tongue] ) but I'm sure I can find more info elsewhere online... Is there any reason I can't just use my framing square and straight-edge in place of these "specialized" tools? I know them to be true...

Now, if I find that a fret or two is high, is this something I can rectify myself? Again, I'm very handy and take instruction well, but I don't want to ruin a brand new guitar either...

 

 

 

 

Hmm.. I always used to use Super Slinkys, but in the last year or so switched to Regular Slinkys.. are they not heavy enough? Is this not prudent? Should I not set it up to handle lighter strings, or should I be using a heavier gauge on this guitar? (again, this is my first hollow body, so I don't know of there are any special "rules of thumb" for them) Thanks for the recommended reads.. I'll definitely take a look at them, and maybe even purchase them if my Library doesn't have them in...

 

Thanks again for the answers and patience... you'd think I'd know more about guitars for as long as I've been playing, but again, it's an on again-off again relationship I've had most of my life... 8-[

 

I use the short side of the framing square. It fits the fret board better than the long side.

Like I stated before...you might want to try 11's. Takes a little of the tinniness out of the Dot.

I'm also very lucky to have a local music store that gives you a FREE set-up or adjustments on any guitar for the first year. They also usually throw me one or two packs of whatever strings I want.

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You said in your original post that you had also gone to a lighter guage set of strings.

This can be part of the problem, as a lighter set does not put as much tension on the neck. This might, and usually does, cause the neck to straighten out or even have a bit of "Backbow". That in turn can cause buzz.

 

I could go through a whole setup here, but the info is in the DIY section of the Epi Lounge. If you are truly interested in getting to know how to set up your guitars, I highly reccommend a couple of books from Stewmac.com.

 

1. How To Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great

2. Guitar Player Guide To Repair

i have those two books ...best investment you can make if your gonna work on yur guitars ... everything is in those two books

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I have the same tool you used, and those edges are fine for short straightedges. One doesn't really need to have guitar luthier tools to check for most guitar alignment issues.

 

For a new guitar, it should be corrected by the dealer, although I realize there are often reasons not to.. travel distance, waiting for return, potential damage done by careless handling, etc.

Once an owner attempts to fix a problem, the dealer and manufacturer aren't responsible for correcting that issue, or related future problems.

 

There are several reasons why a fret would be sitting higher than it should.. but I'm no luthier, so I can't say what would be the best solution.

The fret may not be fully seated in the slot. It may nat have been glued properly and just raised slightly, the slot may be shallow, or maybe the fret wasn't formed/bent properly before installation.

 

The others and myself can't see the fret, so you need to be the judge as to what the real issue is. If sides of the fret don't contact the fingerboard the same as the rest of the frets do, you may see a very small gap at the end of the fret.

 

Another possibility could be that the fretboard has a very slight high spot.. which may be harder to detect.

 

Frets are commonly re-crowned when they become worn, or as part of a professional fret leveling job. The files used are concave so the crowns turn out to be fairly consistent.

For a single high spot, a small fine cut flat file could also be used to level a minor high spot, as long as one approaches the task cautiously so as to not remove too much fret material (and avoid scratching/gouging the fretboard). The fret crown is important, and protecting the nearby fretboard material with tape or other protective material is a good practice to adhere to.

 

For my own guitars (which are used, not new), if I saw the end of a loose fret sticking up a little too high, I'd see if it would press down fully.. and if it did, I'd probably just apply a tiny amount* of superglue to the slot, push the fret down fully, and then clamp the fret down and put the guitar aside.

 

* a good way to apply a tiny amount of glue, is to put a dollop/glop of it on a scrap piece of cardboard/plastic, then use a toothpick (or a pin/thin wire) to apply just enough to the repair spot. Some folks try to be really careful about using those fine tip glue containers to apply glue, and end up having it run all over the place when the glue suddenly comes gushing out of the tip.

 

Regards,

Bill

 

 

Ok, took the arm off an angle finder I had lying around the shop and used the "credit card" sized gauge to check the fret heights.

Sure enough, the fourth fret is high. What can I try to get it down?

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