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Cut your own nuts


daveinspain

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This seems like the right place/time to ask, If I use this tool, (I found one on my bench the other day, organizing tools ect. that I used on my torches ect.) I had no idea I could use this on nuts, or in my case nut. I removed a Jeff Beck roller nut off a fender american standard and bought bone. Would you describe how to make a good fit shaping a bone nut. I get the part about a half pencil and marking on the nut the radius from a couple frets up. I think I get that it should fit nicely in the slot.

 

I don't get what angle to use as it goes to the trees and tuners. Any suggestions on making a nice nut for this stratocaster would be appreciated. I've noticed that the nut slot is slightly wider than original because of the slot for the metal Beck nut.

It also looks a little deeper. The good news is that the nut I purchased looks sturdy and plenty large. Thank you in advance.

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This seems like the right place/time to ask, If I use this tool, (I found one on my bench the other day, organizing tools ect. that I used on my torches ect.) I had no idea I could use this on nuts, or in my case nut. I removed a Jeff Beck roller nut off a fender american standard and bought bone. Would you describe how to make a good fit shaping a bone nut. I get the part about a half pencil and marking on the nut the radius from a couple frets up. I think I get that it should fit nicely in the slot.

 

I don't get what angle to use as it goes to the trees and tuners. Any suggestions on making a nice nut for this stratocaster would be appreciated. I've noticed that the nut slot is slightly wider than original because of the slot for the metal Beck nut.

It also looks a little deeper. The good news is that the nut I purchased looks sturdy and plenty large. Thank you in advance.

The "angle" of the slot where the string passes is what you are asking?

 

Basically, you want that angle to be such that the string makes contact at both ends of the nut- that is, you want the string to rest on both the the side that goes toward the fingerbaord, and on the side that goes to the tuners (or string tees, as on a fender).

 

What happens is if the slot is cut at a warong angle, the string may not be resting at the front of the nut, and it will either rattle or have the wrong intonation because the actual resting point is at the back of the nut. If it rest at the front, it may have the proper break point for intonation, but the string where it goes from having contact to no contact at the back will possibly rattle and loose sustain.

 

And either way, in addition to having a good angle to allow the string to "rest" properly on the nut, it should also be shaped well and smooth so that the string will not bind, as well as not rattle side to side. If what you have is a three-sided square shape, the string will have pressure on the bottom but will rattle on the 2 sides. If it is a "V" shape with pressure on the sides, it will have a tendancy to be pushed down by pressure and bind into it by the sides. What you want ideally, is a soft "rounded" radius at the bottom where the round string will have a tendancy to sort of "roll" or set in the center, but not be bound by the sides.

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Thank you Stein, great verbal description. I get it, but it is going to be tricky. I have only done the jeff beck one which doesn't require a lot of filing.

 

I'm getting ready, you know meditating and planning. My work bench is looking good so now might be a good time.

 

Thank you again!

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My link

 

This is what I use. Much cheaper too. Just be careful and cut at the right angle.

 

 

Thanks, Lashurst. Just ordered me one- worth a try for a couple o' quid!

 

They came today- sold as described on your link.

 

They look pretty good but I've yet to test them in slots. I think they'd be fine for shaping and smoothing out slots where there's a spot of binding.

 

Thanks for the heads up.

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