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Set up Question.What would a perfect neck look like with a straight edge along its fret board?


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Imprefect frets make for trouble when action is so low.

Ive got one,a Martin, where frets 13-17 are a a little higher(paper thin) than all those before them then... drops off...which seems to be the usual hump syndrome.


But the other guitar...Which baffles me most, on a pretty straight neck..

Bass Side...Straight edge touches Fret 1 then 7th Fret on till end.

Treble Side...Straight edge touches Fret 1 then only last 6.

Im having some trouble with semi dead spots/buzzing on treble side.

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Placing a straight edge next to thin E and then next to low E...what is perfect if one is looking for a pretty straight neck for a player with light touch jazz approach to playing?




Its my understanding that the neck should not be perfectly straight, but should have an appropriate inward or outward bow in its depending on each guitar. This prevents fretbuzzing, plus adjusts the neck to each individual guitar' string tension (depending on the string gage), how each player likes it for their style of playing, etc. That is the purpose of the adjustable truss rod...to adjust the neck's bow, pull it in, let it out, etc. There are a number of websites on the web that discuss it.


QM aka Jazzman Jeff

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If you want a near perfect setup {perfect doesn't exist}: the fretboard is based on the radius of a circle - so if your radius is 10" = 10" circle. These tools are about he only way to find your problem with the saddle, nut, or frets.... they all need to be very close to the same for a near perfect setup. The truss rod adjusts the 'relief' in the neck from the saddle to the nut, which is the fret-buzz factor. Seems StewMac has a tool for everything:



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Come on pros give me your view please.

Half hour searching on computer and no answer to this..instead there are videos like "how to fret a string"...


I'm no "pro" but based on my experience and, assuming a "good" neck/body joint, the neck should have a modest degree of relief... how much depends on what kind of shape your nut/frets/saddle are in. If all components are "right", then it's just a matter of truss rod adjustments.... never more than a 1/4 turn at a time/overnight set time. Measure results at the 12th fret until desired result is achieved. This is the advice I followed to adjust my JB Gibson and it worked perfectly. Totally happy with setup.... but then that's me... you may be more discerning........

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Just my preference, I prefer low action -

As long as the guitar doesn't have a neck angle issue, I put a capo if possible on the 12th and 1st

- using the strings as a straight edge I adjust truss rod so the gap at the 6th is between .002" to .005"

- I check the radius on the saddle to make sure it matches the upper frets

- I sand down or replace the saddle so at the 12th fret I have .050" gap on the treble and .060" on the bass

- If needed the nut slots are sawed lower to get a .020" gap at every string

Just my preference

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