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Cleaning And Regreasing Sealed Machine Heads?


capmaster

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I know there are forumites experienced in guitars and automobiles as well, so I hope for helpful contributions and an expertise on this mechanical concern and my plans to handle it.

 

Two sets of 1970's sealed Grover machine heads feel sluggish when tuning strings up. Even without strings and thus without load their going is tough when rotated counterclockwise like for tuning up, and easy when turned clockwise. There is no idling worth mentioning though, and I guess that means there's no serious abrasion until now. This gives me some hope.

 

Here are my ideas how to deal with it and hopefully get the problem solved.

 

After removing them from the guitars and demounting pegs and shims I mount the peg loosely back to the worm without the shims. Then I spray brake cleaner like used for automotive applications into the gap between capstan and enclosure. Through turning the peg I try to bring out as much old grease as possible. I repeat the latest two steps until no more grease seems to be left within. Finally I wait until the cleaner has evaporated.

 

Then I feed sprayable bearing grease into the gap and disperse it by rotating the peg. I plan on repeating it until grease appears all around the worm. Then I wait again until the solvent has evaporated.

 

After removing protruding grease I screw the tube nuts in and out, remove grease, and repeat until no more grease is brought up. Finally I reassemble the tuners, check for function, make a final cleaning if necessary, and put them back on the guitars.

 

What do you think about that? Have you ever done the like before? Do you believe it will work?

 

Your thoughts and suggestions are well appreciated.

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Well, I think I won't try it before spring comes. I want to do it outdoors to avoid the solvent vapours in my rooms. These stuffs are highly volatile, and that's what it takes I think, for removing the old grease through small gaps as well for bringing in the new one.

 

I tried to disassemble one of these tuning machines recently during a restringing. My hope has been that the worm could perhaps be removed by "screwing it out" through the inner side of the housing but found that it doesn't work. I wonder how they are assembled at the factory. I searched on the web for exploded views but couldn't find any.

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Well, these die-cast machine heads are not serviceable. The knobs are removable, but it will only allow access to the hex screw. Besides the surface cleaning, these heads are designed to be maintenance-free.

 

Best wishes... Bence

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The tuners are 28 respectively 33 years old. There are lots of machine heads as drop-in replacements available, but I want to save these old ones Made in USA with slot-head clutch screws. The grease may have gone old and lost its thixotropy, crucial for correct lubrication.

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Watching with interest, have nothing to add, but possibly something to learn.

 

I looked into it some time ago, and it seems Grovers at some point did simply become a different company with different design and point of origin. So it does seem worthwhile to try and restore or preserve "originals".

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Are we talking Rotomatics here? I think they were maintenance free w/the only adjustment being adjusting the "drag", by way of the screw holding the button on. Did you try adjusting the screw that holds the button on? I have had '70's Grovers that were still fine. I can only think of having a failure once and that was a brand new one.

I am watching with interest as well. Hoping to learn something though your endeavor. Good Luck.

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...

I looked into it some time ago, and it seems Grovers at some point did simply become a different company with different design and point of origin. So it does seem worthwhile to try and restore or preserve "originals".

This is exactly what I'm aiming for. There are curiosity and trying to save money as well, but I simply love these tuners.

 

Are we talking Rotomatics here? I think they were maintenance free w/the only adjustment being adjusting the "drag", by way of the screw holding the button on. Did you try adjusting the screw that holds the button on? ...

That's what I tried first. Funny but even adjusted loose the pegs run smoothly when turned clockwise and tend to stick counterclockwise, even without string tension. The resistance is not that strong but I fear it might aggravate if I just go on using them.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I agree with Cap - I would much rather preserve the integrity of original parts than buy replacements. I know buying a drop in set is the no-brainer thing to do, it makes sense economically.

 

I've applied the cleaing/lubing techniques mentioned above on sets of those funky 70s Fender "F" machine heads with great satisfaction. Of course, they're much easier since they break into 4 pieces quite readily. The Kluson or Gibson-branded Klusons are a bit more difficult, but by forcing (via pressurized can and long red tube) brake cleaner through any available port, then likwise with lube, yeilds nicely turning gears. This assumes the worm and or the gear are not damaged, post/shaft are good, etc.

 

I have not tried this on Grover Rotomatics before, but I have 2 sets (and a couple loose singles) that are perfect candidates. This thread has motivated me to give it a go.

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