btoth76 Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Hello! I think it looks better: Cheers... Bence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 This will be the important upgrade. The FABER ABRN bridge with iNsert posts. Much more accurate than the GFS stuff that's currently on. Better built. Already notched the saddles, but have to trim some material off the bottom of the studs. The holes in the guitar not that deep. Cheers... Bence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pippy Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Much more like a '76 with those knobs, Bence, you old Norlin-Lover! On the ABRN; are the saddle screws held in place by the shape of the 'slot' (narrower at the top) hence no need for a retaining wire? P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 Much more like a '76 with those knobs, Bence, you old Norlin-Lover! On the ABRN; are the saddle screws held in place by the shape of the 'slot' (narrower at the top) hence no need for a retaining wire? P. Hello Pippy! I blame Donny for this. :) He posted that pic of a beautiful collection of maple-boarded Norlin Customs... :D He did recommend Philadelphia Luthiers too. A great company, with useful products at correct prices. The ABRN was bought from Tokaiguitar Germany. They sell Faber products as well. As You said, the slot is too narrow. The adjustment screws are held in place with circlips. Only after removing them can be the screw removed. Thus, the saddles cannot move at all. As Faber says, it's the perfect replica of the '59 Gibson bridge - however, they all say this. :D Best wishes... Bence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tman Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 looks great Bence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riffster Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Nice, I am a reflector knobs kind of guy. What did you not like about the GFS bridge? can you post pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 Nice, I am a reflector knobs kind of guy. What did you not like about the GFS bridge? can you post pics? Hello Riffster. The saddles in the GFS unit were lifting under string pressure. Above this, the luthier cut the notches too deep, just to place the strings even closer to the lifting adjustment screw heads. In result, the guitar buzzed. So, I decided to remove it, and look for a non-retainer wire unit. Uncle Donny, and AXE® recommended the FABER unit. I went with the ABRN (replacement for Nashvilles) with brass saddles. The only thing I like about the GFS were the brass inserts, they give more pronounced tone. Also, ordered a set of Faber iNserts, which replace the Nashville bushings and thumbwheel, for more vintage look and better contact with the guitar body. Cheers... Bence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 Hello! Thank You for Your comments. I've documented the Faber installation, in case someone else decides to do this mod too. I feel it`s important to point out to some aspects of installation. It isn`t a bolt-on replacement, some fabrication might be required. Step 1: Remove, or slacken the strings. Take care about the finish! I didn't remove the strings, just slackened them, and layed a piece of 5" wide cardboard just below the nut: to keep the loose strings away from the headstock veneer. Also, layed a cotton rag between strings and pickups for the same reason. Step 2: Remove the bridge, thumbwheels. Then the Nashville bushings. A properly sized bolt, - threaded with a socket wrench into the bushing - will do the job nice and easy. As soon as the bolt bottoms, it starts to lift the bushing out. Step 3: This is important! The Faber iNsert studs are longer (were longer in my case) than the depth of the bushing holes in the guitar body. Sorry for the bad photo quality, but note the amount of material I had to file off from the bottom of the stud (left), and compare it to the stock one (right). Also, check the threaded post section of the stud! At lower actions, it might protrude from the top of the bridge unit! File them as necessary too. Step 4: Insert the studs with the provided hard plastic installation tool, and a soft-faced hammer (rubber mallet, or a regular hammer wrapped in a cloth). Make sure the instrument is laid on a soft surface (like a bed, with headstock off it's surface) to prevent any damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 Step 5: Thumbwheels... Step 6: Install the bridge, and You are ready! The reason I posted this, because - stupidly enough - I have only realized about stud size issue when I hammered them in... Take Your time to measure things. Learn on my expense. :) Cheers... Bence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pippy Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Nice job, Bence! And I know what you mean about checking things out first. As a carpenter friend told me; "Measure Twice - Cut Once!". Very sound advice! I've just noticed the small nylon washers which isolate the screw-heads from the main body of the bridge. It's a nice detail touch to ensure there are no rattles from that department. Just as long as it doesn't rob the guitar of any sustain - but I'm sure Faber will have already thought of that. P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valeriy Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Bence, yep, it looks nice in color tones, it also helps in playing and improvisation. Maybe it would be nice, the only thing lacking, in my opinion, if to add a new sound to your guitar by active electronics for work with computer directly (i.e. to avoid uncomfortable guitar cabinets and microphones). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 Nice job, Bence! And I know what you mean about checking things out first. As a carpenter friend told me; "Measure Twice - Cut Once!". Very sound advice! I've just noticed the small nylon washers which isolate the screw-heads from the main body of the bridge. It's a nice detail touch to ensure there are no rattles from that department. Just as long as it doesn't rob the guitar of any sustain - but I'm sure Faber will have already thought of that. P. Hello Pippy! Thank You! I try to be careful with my statements form now on. I tend to get excited about new mods way too early (that`s how it was with the previous ABR unit, then I became disappointed...). Anyways... I finished the whole conversion late night yesterday, and became too tired to set the intonation. Before I went to sleep, I played the guitar for like 15 minutes. What I heard was very pleasing. No rattle or buzz, also the string tension feels softer - which is rather interesting: I didn't touch the tailpiece at all, and the bridge itself shall not make any difference from this point of view - if I am right. Also, it might sound like a typical advertisement BS, but the sustain increase is dramatic. Really! Not just slightly better - which can be interpreted as a psychological phenomenon, but categorically better. Another thing I have learned, that it is unnecessary too cut notches in the saddles deep. The unit came pre-notched, I just slightly filed them deeper with a triangular file. More than half of the strings's diameter is above the contact surface and they seat very firmly - they stay in the notch even when I shake and bend them violently. Cheers... Bence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 Bence, yep, it looks nice in color tones, it also helps in playing and improvisation. Maybe it would be nice, the only thing lacking, in my opinion, if to add a new sound to your guitar by active electronics for work with computer directly (i.e. to avoid uncomfortable guitar cabinets and microphones). Привет Валерий! Thank You! I like the colors of the guitar very much. The natural finish with chrome hardware looks very nice. The brass saddles are in harmony with gold-faced knobs and pointers. As Pippy nailed it in one of His previous posts, it has a 70s appearance - what I was after. As far recording is concerned, I recently bought a Zoom R24 recorder/audio interface. It has a switchable Low/High-Z guitar input. Works very well in both modes. I tried it with the LP Recording in Low-Z mode and the tone quality is brilliant. It also has amp/cab simulations, and the same Zoom effects You would find in their multieffect devices. Cheers... Bence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 That looks great Bence I knew you were going to love that store Im thinking of getting more stuff myself. That bridge is really cool I cant wait to hear what you think of it. Hello Donny! First, let me thank You for recommending the shop and the bridge unit. :) I will set the intonation on the weekend, and play it a lot. Then I will be able to post a correct review. But, what I heard so far is great-great! I will contact Philadelphia Luthiers again. Maybe, I'll get an amber switch tip to put cherry on top of the cake. :) ...and, I will also come back to Faber too, for a Tone-lock kit. (http://www.tokaiguitar.de/xtcommerce/product_info.php?info=p5_TL-ING--Inch-thread--nickel-gloss.html) Cheers... Bence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted June 20, 2014 Author Share Posted June 20, 2014 Thank You, Donny! One more thing I'd like to share. I had hard time setting the intonation. The screws seemed extremely tight, even with strings off. I was afraid of damaging them. However, with a long enough screwdriver, which is properly sized for the slot, does the job as expected. But, definitely a jeweller's screwdriver, - I used to use - doesn't have the necessary leverage. Also, lowered the action way down - as I prefer. No buzz or rattle. I am happy with this product, I can recommend it with a clear conscience. Cheers... Bence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tman Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Very very cool! Great job. How do you think the FABER ABRN bridge compares to Tonepros that are standard on some Gibsons? Looking forward to any demo too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4Hayden Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Looks great Bence , good job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfpup Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Love the reflector knobs. Looks great. I modded my own LP in a similar fashion, though I used the TonePros ABR and Callaham conversion studs which worked flawlessly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karloff Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 looks great. good job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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