jedzep

Inspiring trade move. It's got me thinking. More details please! What went out the door? Guess you have no more worries about bridge lifting.

Now that you mention it, FedEx has the least reliable 'day of' updating, and 'on the truck' means more than one thing.

Guess I've done it enough to see the early tracking warning signs and quell my anticipation. Sounds like UPS, with the 10PM window. Might have had it happen once or twice in 10yrs of internet guitar trading. UPS 'My Choice' gives better updating, if you actually have a UPS account. Shipping is the most stressful part of the game, coming or going. I always send US Postal Service, cuz they don't seem rushed, like the other two do. I'm awaiting a final payment on a sweet old Guild that I'm sending to Maine, and I'll be taking an extended trading break after it gets there safely. The undercurrent of stress from living in these times is scratching at my brain, so it'll be a welcome reduction in things that aggravate me. Guess you'll get yours today, as I've never experienced more than a 1 day bump. What did you buy?

That peghead logo is comical, at best.

Sorry to hear. Where or who did you buy it from? Much like if you bought a new car and it drifted all over the road on the ride home, you'd get right on the phone to the dealer and let them take the lead on making things right. There are many adjustments you can make, but you have to be careful not to void any warranty, so after the phone call I expect you'll be either packing it back up or taking it to an authorized shop for a set-up. If it sat for a long time without any tension on the strings it very well could be something you'll want to swap for a fresh build. On the other hand, if you can detect that it has superior tone and is structurally sound, you might want to let the seller make the corrections.

Well, you'll want to arrange your visit so that a competent tech is ready to set it up right there. You don't want to have to leave it and come back. There are set Gibson specs for this set up, and it doesn't speak well of the shop to not have sent it out the door with it dialed in. That gives you a clue as to their potential competence in repair so think ahead.

The neck relief has to be considered along with string height measurements. Pics don't really speak unless a ruler is included. I struggle if my height is more than 2/16ths down low and more than 1 eighth inch at the tenth or twelfth. Find a shop to set up correctly or you're guessing.

Don't fall for Dave F's BS. I sent him two guitars already and he changed his email.

I have old hands that tire easily. I'm told I have to learn to back off on the amount of pressure I use to press strings, but I have mostly vintage guitars that could likely use a fresh set up. I think the string tension off the nut is the tightest, so starting off with a capo'd fret I get a bit of relief. Width doesn't bother me, narrowness does. I also play all my guitars tuned down a step D-D with heavier (13s) strings. Hand fatigue can be traced to many variables.

You'll adjust. Play it with a capo on the 2nd fret for a while 'til your hand position settles in, assuming the guitar is properly set up.

Yeah, and I don't see a shot of how intact the the lettering is. It would have to start from scratch and there's certainly no way to create a frisket for the overlay lettering on the banner. I wouldn't touch it either, but I would be bothered by it every time I picked the guitar up.

I'm pretty sure you'll find it's quite a process to have one made, even if you can find a sign-maker/printer who has the software. A file is made by scanning an actual intact banner headstock logo on a flatbed scanner, then tracing it with CAD software to make the vector file. Sign shops use a CAD based program to operate vinyl cutters. Good luck. Talk to a sign shop about it. You won't find a waterslide decal for the banner.

That's a good way of looking at it. Nick has a wise approach too, as far as restoration and value is concerned. It took a lot of butt kissing to get a correct frisket to replicate the painted logo for my '50 J50, and thanks to Dan Erlewine for the contact, but there is a process by which a photo of a clean banner logo can be transferred to a stencil for getting the best job possible in a serious restoration. https://www.stewmac.com/articles-and-video/trade-secrets/spraying-a-peghead-logo-using-a-vinyl-frisket.html

It should have been a painted on logo, I think. I don't think it would be a decal, but that looks like one that's peeled off. It can be re-done, but the only guy I know who makes correct friskets (stencils) is pretty pissy about doing it.

Their lights get pretty close to your threshold. I have discussed having a few custom thinner picks made, but they wouldn't go for it. Fortunately, it's pretty easy to modify them with 600 grit sandpaper (dry only). I recommend using their conditioner afterward.

Heads-up for you Red Bear nerds. They just re-booted their inventory with a good selection of styles and gauges. Closest thing to TS I've ever used. Dave

Glad to hear. Steve's site was down for a bit, but it's up now, I think. If not, I can give you his #. I joined the site Imgur, free to load resized images, then direct copy to this site.

Yeah, they really give the head stock a clunky disproportionate look. I've swapped out plenty of vintage ones and always had good luck, so I think you'll be good with modern replacements, especially since measurements are always provided. The ID (inside diameter) of the peghead holes has to jive with the OD ( outside dia ) of the bushings, so keep that aspect in mind when you shop. It should be an EZ swap.

While a competent luthier would be ideal, the repair isn't comparable to, say, a neck reset, so it's a single task repair. The phrase 'snapped relatively clean' would perhaps also hold some bearing on how the break is handled. The ideal fix would be structurally load-bearing, where it's pulling from the front, so I'm pretty sure it would need a adequate strength reinforcement and awareness of any fulcrum effect left by whatever remains attached, and hopefully some good cosmetic razzle dazzle. Tricky too, with the truss rod channel possibly exposed. Pictures would be good. It certainly seems to be more of a deal than clamp and glue.

I've seen them flubbed too.

This is quite repairable, even if it needs a hidden reinforcing screw. Upstate NY is a vast piece of real estate. I live here, I know. What larger town are you near? I'm in a fairly remote region, Cooperstown area, and am pretty sure you can find a good guy for this repair. A competent cabinet grade carpenter or furniture maker/ repair guy could do it, in fact. The B-25 is a nice X-braced small bod.

Nice grab! When I played infield during my college days we called that a 'good hop'. Custom shop? Waddup widdat?

This is the one I like for my L flattops. Affordable with decent fit and protection for normal use. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Silver-Creek-Classical-Guitar-Case-Black-/132877717116?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l10137.c10&nordt=true&rt=nc&orig_cvip=true https://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/silver-creek-classical-guitar-case

Just relax and let Roger do his thing.

Yeah. If he knows you value originality you should be able to work with him. I have a younger luthier just out of school that does solid work for basics like crack repair. He had to be talked into a couple vintage bridge repairs. Both times he did a good tight fix. Some of it is just basic.