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Tailpiece and bridge height...


backlineguy

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Hello,

My first time here...I just bought an Epiphone SG "Bully", and I'm trying to set it up...Can anyone tell me if there's a "rule of thumb" for the height adjustment for the tailpiece and the bridge? trying to set the action, intonation, etc...I can use all the help I can get. If there's a website that you can point me to, that would work as well...thanks in advance,

backlineguy

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Set the bridge height until there is no buzzing from the strings on the fret board and adjust the tail piece so the strings do not

hit the edge of the bridge and hit the string saddles. There are other ways to set things this is just a quick method to start with.

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As a rule of thumb most feel that you pin the tail piece all the way down for sustain.

 

Others feel that their is a sweet spot and its around just below the height of the bridge.

 

Some pin the tail piece and top wrap the strings to lesson the break angle of the strings.

 

You got to play around and find what sounds best to your Ears and learn (by youtube videos)

 

how to wrap your strings to lock on the tuner pegs.

 

For the bridge height/string height. You want to bring it down until it buzz's and then bring it up

 

until you do not hear any thur an Amp while plucking hard and its always best to have it high enough

 

not to flatten out your sound.

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And you always get the lowest Action with some forward bow.

 

Depress at the 1st and 12th on the low "E" string and look up at a light and see if you have some space

 

at around the 5th and 7th or so. Generally 2 or 3 thick guitar picks of thickness.

 

The reason for foward bow is to alow the strings space when they vibrate so they don't hit the frets and to get foward

 

bow you loosen the truss rod nut a 1/4 turn at a time and waiting 24hrs each time you make an adjustment.

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And you always get the lowest Action with some forward bow.

 

Depress at the 1st and 12th on the low "E" string and look up at a light and see if you have some space

 

at around the 5th and 7th or so. Generally 2 or 3 thick guitar picks of thickness.

 

The reason for foward bow is to alow the strings space when they vibrate so they don't hit the frets and to get foward

 

bow you loosen the truss rod nut a 1/4 turn at a time and waiting 24hrs each time you make an adjustment.

 

so much?2 or 3 thick guitar picks?i would say at max a medium pick gap.you press the 1 and the 15 low e,the gap at the 7 shouldn't in my mind be bigger than a medium pick.but i guess there are no rules,try out whats best for you

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I tweak the hell out of my truss rod, I don't wait any 24 hours either.

 

If it's not good then, I use it to slice cheese afterwards.

 

Just joking.... I've given a 1/4 turn on my baby just to give that slight bow that's important. I hold down the 23rd (or 22nd) fret with my pinkey, and the 1st on every string with my first finger on my left hand and with my right index finger, I tap the string on the 12th, you should see no more then 1mm distance. It's important to check that all strings have the same height or you have some twist in the neck. (important check before buying a new axe)

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Thanks drumrnmusik...I've made some progress with the setup...the truss rod was the first adj, and it took almost 1 1/2 turns, but it made a huge difference. I've set the stop bar flat against the body and the bridge raised just a touch. The strings are not touching the bridge bar and have a good angle from the stop bar. I set the action eliminating string buzz, then raisedthe pickup height..although there was a noticable change right away, I let her sit overnight and the checked it this morning...wow...major improvement...I thinkI may have other issues, as the G plays sharp when fretted heavily, but thanks to all who assisted here...it plays now!

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Bloody Hell, Pushing 11s' Down onto the fretboard? You must have very strong fingers........

 

On second Thoughts, if its just one string, it could just be the intonation on the G saddle being out. Thats Fairly easy fix if you have a reasonably accurate tuner

 

Heres somthing on the net, remember to take the tension off the string before adjusting..

 

"Adjusting your intonation- If, after tuning the string to pitch it plays sharp at the 12th fret then you will need to increase the strings length by moving its saddle further from the fingerboard. If the note is flat, the string must be shortened by moving the saddle closer to the fingerboard.

Make sure to retune after each adjustment, recheck and adjust if necessary.

 

12th Fret Plays Sharp - move the saddle away from the fingerboard

12th Fret Plays Flat - move the saddle closer to the fingerboard"

 

Copied and Pasted from http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/Electric_Guitar_Intonation.htm

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I also own a PRS

American or import?

 

A friend of mine wanted one like my Custom 24 but wouldn't spend the money.

He kicked it around for a couple months (had the cash in his pocket) and then called me one day to say he took the plunge - sorta. He bought a Korean import for 80% less than I paid for mine.

 

Turns out to be a pretty damned nice guitar!

Had to eat a few of my harsh words about imported guitars.....

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My Paul Reed Smith is American, not an import. I'd say that import or whatever, if you can get it to sound how you like, and play the way you like, where it's made becomes secondary. I've played some very nice imported Strats Teles that have been set up well...though there's nothing like the "real thing"..........you know as well as I do, that in the hands of a talented player, it can make little difference as to foreign or domestic...they can get the best out of just about any guitar

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For example Tokai, they make Gibson Copys better than Epiphone , and they are gibson =S

 

Your right though A good player can sound great on a Great Guitar, But a Great Player Can Sound Good On Half a Banjo (an that is so going onto my signiature =P)

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Thanks drumrnmusik...I've made some progress with the setup...the truss rod was the first adj' date=' and it took almost 1 1/2 turns, but it made a huge difference. I've set the stop bar flat against the body and the bridge raised just a touch. The strings are not touching the bridge bar and have a good angle from the stop bar. I set the action eliminating string buzz, then raisedthe pickup height..although there was a noticable change right away, I let her sit overnight and the checked it this morning...wow...major improvement...I thinkI may have other issues, as the G plays sharp when fretted heavily, but thanks to all who assisted here...it plays now![/quote']

 

Be real Careful with the trussrod Adjustments. 1 1/2 TURNS IS ALOT and you never and I mean

 

never want to put the neck into a overbow Condition. Meaning tightening the trussrod to Straighten the Neck to much.

 

I always just loosen the nut a little to get some foward bow.

 

Once a Mahogany neck is forced flat and then tightened more into a over bow

 

IT'S FIREWOOD. So stick with loosening only and only 1/16th to 1/4 turns.

 

A neck should never need 1 1/2 turns on the Trussrod.

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