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es-335 or es-137


Johnhw

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Hi everyone,

 

Have not been around for a while but need a little help.

 

For years now (I think) there has been a maple figured es-335 custom in a local shop. I think high retail at one pint was $4500 or so. I have watched it go down and I think I can pick it up for like $2500 out the door if I bargain hard enough.

 

On the other hand I have been joinesing for a es-137 and one of those happened to come in. I am sure since new not so willing to do but maybe can get close.

 

I have a 20 year old Howard Roberts Fusion that I play now.

 

Anyway, what do you think....which would you choose. i am thinking the 335 gets the nod but the 137 is a bit more comfortable and is nice also. I had a 335 a while ago and it rubbed my chest so I traded it. I do miss it...and might be willing to try again.

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Hi everyone' date='

 

Have not been around for a while but need a little help.

 

For years now (I think) there has been a maple figured es-335 custom in a local shop. I think high retail at one pint was $4500 or so. I have watched it go down and I think I can pick it up for like $2500 out the door if I bargain hard enough.

 

On the other hand I have been joinesing for a es-137 and one of those happened to come in. I am sure since new not so willing to do but maybe can get close.

 

I have a 20 year old Howard Roberts Fusion that I play now.

 

Anyway, what do you think....which would you choose. i am thinking the 335 gets the nod but the 137 is a bit more comfortable and is nice also. I had a 335 a while ago and it rubbed my chest so I traded it. I do miss it...and might be willing to try again.[/quote']

 

Hi John,

 

A 335 is certainly a "natural" choice over a 137 (and maybe an HR Fusion) but playing comfort is very important - and 335s do have a wide bout. ON the other hand they are a better quality instrument in my view.

 

I guess I would be asking myself what I was hoping to achieve by a change and be making sure that this particular 335 is playable and has the right tone. It sounds a bit like you are thinking of buying it because it's there rather than having come to the decision after trying out a lot of instruments.

 

Just to muddy the water, are you aware of the 339 which is a small body version of the 335?

 

http://www.gibson.com/en-us/Lifestyle/Features/Gibson%20Custom%20Proudly%20Presents/

 

RN

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Thanks for the reply guys.

 

Sound is first and formost more important....I agree.

I plan on spending some time this weekend with both and see what happens.

It's just that the 335 is a natural maple and the price was way up there when I first saw it...

I have not played a 137 for a while so I am going to try this one out also,

As for the 339, yes, I know where to get one of those now too...comfort it may have the plus, but I believe I like a fuller (less brighter) sound than it can deliver. But worth a try...

 

Let you know what happens...

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I've played both and I much prefer the 335 (the one I ended up buying). Perfect fit for me, and that pointy cutaway on the 137 turns me off. Here's a pic of the 335 (with a Carvin SH550 I was evaluating for a project) and a Fender DRRI. I love mine.

 

Off topic, the Carvin is damn good too, and you can get it with a Bigsby.

CarvinSH550andGibsonES-335.jpg?1280415714

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Hey Deluxe,

 

That's pretty much what this one looks like.

Heavy gloss on it and my last one was transparent and had alot of sustain. Has yours opened up witht he gloss, or do you have any issues?

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I think a lot has to do with two factors:

 

1. Comfort of the instrument as you play.

 

2. Whether there's a need for higher fret access in the stuff you're doing.

 

Frankly the 175-shaped body seems to be the most comfortable guitar shape I've ever owned or played. Period. But that's me. I have other stuff that, but... #1 is this one. Oddly my #2 is a Guild SG clone from the mid 1970s, so go figure.

 

The 335-size body is pretty big. I've never played a much smaller semi-hollow except for a Rick many, many years ago.

 

Frankly my observation is that each guitar shape requires a different way to wear it to play it well and to be comfortable with the differing shape.

 

m

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John...

 

Yeah, I think there's no ideal guitar shape for everyone, but that there likely is an ideal shape for an individual.

 

I don't now why the 175 shape seems "right" to me. I think partially it's similar in size to my first couple of years playing when it was all classical or a small 12 string. I think partially it's that I don't have an overwhelming need for high fret access with anything I've played.

 

Oddly the SG shape is #2 and I'm darned if I know why unless it's that old Guild's neck and the kinda guitar shape to the SG, its variations and copies.

 

I'm less hung up about "tone" than some folks around here on grounds that I figure almost any guitar can give you pleasing tone for what you wanna play if you're comfortable playing it. Granted, that's an old picker's comment...

 

m

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Yeah...

 

Either the 335 or the 137 will sound awfully, awfully nice - but IMHO probably the better sound will come from the shape the player is more comfortable playing. I mean, we're not talking about a great guitar vs. a piece of garbage, but two great guitars.

 

m

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  • 2 months later...

A very interesting topic

I imagine they are different tonally, but that is not always important

How do they compare for weight?

For looks I go for the 137

For universal appeal and possibly variety of tones(?overdrive) I would veer toward the 335

 

I would borrow heavily from Mrs Versatile and Have Them Both.

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I like the looks of the single cutaway better. I have a 137 custom and it is flat out amazing.

 

137Bigsby.jpg

 

The varitone switch gets you monster tones out of even the crappiest amp.

 

 

Umm, brundaddy. I like that guitar for certain. [thumbup]

 

edit thing: Who dug this thread up?

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Okay...

 

I don't have Gibson cash in this, my third life <grin>, but I just got an Epi Dot and figured I'd go steady with her for a while and leave the 175 in her case.

 

If anything, it confirmed my basic feeling that we're almost talking about two entirely different instruments here, largely due to the proportions of the instruments.

 

The 175 seems to allow fancier fingering closer to the nut a bit better because it seems as if the neck sticks out farther from your shoulder on the 335 style. Even a bit of Bach seems pretty easy on the 175.

 

On the other hand, the 335 seems to allow more comfort for 4-6 string chord positioning and "left hand 'noodeling'" from the fifth through the 12th fret.

 

Hmmmm. Now remember, this is the analysis of a fingerpicker...

 

I think the bottom line is that we're talking, as I said before, about two absolutely classic and truly great guitar shapes. Both bring something different from the player, I think.

 

m

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mr newhaven:

 

I have four 335's going back to my 63 Block, but I don't have the specific finish your's sports. Looks great. Are those 57 classics? How do you like the gold hardware? Tell me more abot your guitar.

 

 

Steve

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Okay...

 

I don't have Gibson cash in this, my third life <grin>, but I just got an Epi Dot and figured I'd go steady with her for a while and leave the 175 in her case.

 

If anything, it confirmed my basic feeling that we're almost talking about two entirely different instruments here, largely due to the proportions of the instruments.

 

The 175 seems to allow fancier fingering closer to the nut a bit better because it seems as if the neck sticks out farther from your shoulder on the 335 style. Even a bit of Bach seems pretty easy on the 175.

 

On the other hand, the 335 seems to allow more comfort for 4-6 string chord positioning and "left hand 'noodeling'" from the fifth through the 12th fret.

 

Hmmmm. Now remember, this is the analysis of a fingerpicker...

 

I think the bottom line is that we're talking, as I said before, about two absolutely classic and truly great guitar shapes. Both bring something different from the player, I think.

 

m

 

Milod,

 

Well put. Agreed. And, likewise on picking over the years.

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