strangedogs Posted August 9, 2008 Share Posted August 9, 2008 Found this one: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-254 What wires go where? Is there anywhere that will show me where to hook up the wires from the amp and to the speaker? This will work with the VJ Combo eh by installing inline to the speaker? It appears this is all the LITTLE SUCKER attenuators on Ebay are: Little Sucker on Ebay and I did get the hookup diagram from the 1st link - looks fairly easy to wire up Thanks Strangedogs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tele63 Posted August 9, 2008 Share Posted August 9, 2008 Hey, man. I can't help you with the wiring on that, but I've been to the Parts Express showroom ( not very far from my house ) and a lot of musicians frequent that place and the staff is pretty knowledgeable and very helpful. If you email their tech support I'm sure they will help you out to the best of their abilities. They also carry a fair range of tubes ( EH, Sovtek, Mullard, JJ, etc. ). I hope this helps you out. Good Luck. If TS can't help you, PM me and I'll drive up there and try to get some answers in person. Later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tele63 Posted August 9, 2008 Share Posted August 9, 2008 I just checked out the PE website and looked at the "L-pad 50w 3/8 shaft 16ohm" and under the description there is a small diagram to click on and it seems easy to me but I certainly couldn't say for sure. Let us know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nighthawk Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 All you need is wire and solder and it will work the same as the ones you see on ebay. Just be aware of the fact that like all the others, if you lower your volume more than a few decibels it will affect your tone. But it's cheap and easy to build yourself, so if you don't like it's no big deal. Just make sure that you wire it correctly or else you'll damage your amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjones200x Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 Is this all you need to power scale? http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-254 Will this enable me to crank up the amp volume but turn down on this keeping all my tone? Will this shorten the amps life? Dont powerscaling usally remove the excess heat or is that a hot plate type? Anyone who can explain what this is and what it does and how good it is overall including probs would be appricated Thanks Sorry to jump on your thread i wanna know about these too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layboomo Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 Is this all you need to power scale? http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-254 Will this enable me to crank up the amp volume but turn down on this keeping all my tone? Will this shorten the amps life? Dont powerscaling usally remove the excess heat or is that a hot plate type? Anyone who can explain what this is and what it does and how good it is overall including probs would be appricated Thanks Sorry to jump on your thread i wanna know about these too OK first of all let's get our terminology right! Power scaling and output attenuation are two different things! Power scaling is done with a variable voltage regulator and output attenuation can be done with a simple L-pad as pictured. http://www.arnscott.com/PDF/Installation%20Sheets/L-PAD%20Mono%20Installation.PDF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjones200x Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 Whats the difference between the two? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layboomo Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 Whats the difference between the two? "There are two approaches to power attenuation to obtain any desired amount of power-tube distortion at a quiet or independently controllable speaker volume: the power-soaker approach and the power-supply reduction approach. In the power-soaker approach, the power tubes are pushed into their maximum possible power output, and then the unwanted resulting power is directed into the dummy load portion of the power attenuator, which is placed between the output transformer and the guitar speaker, routing only a portion of the output power to the guitar speaker. In the power-supply reduction approach, as with a Variac, Power Scaling, or Sag circuit, the B+ plate voltage available to the power tubes is reduced, producing power-tube distortion at arbitrarily low output power levels -- the entire resulting output power is sent directly to the guitar speaker. This removes power-tube wear, prevents blowing an output transformer, prevents overheating and shutdown, and obviates purchasing and transporting a separate, bulky power attenuator in addition to the guitar amp." The down side to an L-pad attenuator is that on full attenuation they tend to be thin and fizzy sounding and roll off alot of high frequencies...but if you are just looking to knock of a few DB's they can work quite well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strangedogs Posted August 10, 2008 Author Share Posted August 10, 2008 so layboomo - you're saying this would work OK? Heck I can probably make it permanent on the front faceplate next to the Volume knob (if that won't fit at least on the back) - add a chickenhead knob to match the original VJ's, etc. I could start buying up V3 VJ Combos and add an $8.00 Attenuator to them & resell (I'm big on Ebay sales - was actually a Platinum Power-seller for a long time). With spade terminals I wouldn't even really have to solder would I? I guess I need to buy one and experiment... might be a market out there for BUILT-IN ATTENUATORS (sort of what makes the Windsor Studio so nice) on small amps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eracer_Team Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 there is not enough room normally to fit the reostat in the front.. a number of people have been able to wedge it into the back pannel but its tight.. the other possibility is to build it into the bottom of the cab (head or combo it doesn't matter) since there is lots of room at the bottom of the cab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strangedogs Posted August 10, 2008 Author Share Posted August 10, 2008 hmmm... pardon my ignorance but electronics is not my thing (as ya'll probably guessed long ago) but I do electrical (residential 110/220) a lot - was a Maintenance Supervisor for 19 years. What about a DIMMER switch (lighting) - would that work with Audio? I'm gonna order an L-Pad from Parts Express and experiment - must be catchy hanging around all you "Modders". If an $8.00 pot is all it takes to get Attenuation that would be amazing to me. Then perhaps a BRITE MOD (my 1st V1 head had a BRITE switch, a GAIN switch and a STANDBY too) or maybe permanently add a small EQ to the back of the amp BUILT-IN (like a fish-n-chips) to help adjust highs and lows 'eh? The L-Pad could be added to the back - the side - whatever, so not to take away from the VJ's "looks". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layboomo Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 hmmm... pardon my ignorance but electronics is not my thing (as ya'll probably guessed long ago) but I do electrical (residential 110/220) a lot - was a Maintenance Supervisor for 19 years. What about a DIMMER switch (lighting) - would that work with Audio? I'm gonna order an L-Pad from Parts Express and experiment - must be catchy hanging around all you "Modders". If an $8.00 pot is all it takes to get Attenuation that would be amazing to me. Then perhaps a BRITE MOD (my 1st V1 head had a BRITE switch' date=' a GAIN switch and a STANDBY too) or maybe permanently add a small EQ to the back of the amp BUILT-IN (like a fish-n-chips) to help adjust highs and lows 'eh? The L-Pad could be added to the back - the side - whatever, so not to take away from the VJ's "looks".[/quote'] The thing to keep in mind with the l-pad is to match the impedance of the l-pad to the speaker you are using...ie 8 ohm l-pad for 8 ohm speaker etc.. etc... And without giving too much away those other atennuators that look like l-pads...well guess what they are with a few simple add ons like a line out etc...you guessed right...that's your $8 l-pad in a box for $60! I don't think I'd try a dimmer without knowing what kind of a load it presents to the amp...my guess is you'll fry your output transformer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjones200x Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 So both do a simalar job but the L-pad may wear out your amp/tubes out faster? Cheaper initially but could cost more if you have it cranked to the max always. Does running the epi at full all the time mean its gonna wear quickly? I always play mine at max as i love the sound. Will my tubes be dead in a short space of time? How about my transformer?? Sorry to jump in again think we need this info to help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fud Posted August 11, 2008 Share Posted August 11, 2008 Heck I can probably make it permanent on the front faceplate next to the Volume knob (if that won't fit at least on the back) The Lpad is pretty big. I have mine mounted in a Hammond enclosure that cost ~20.00. Radio Shack sells plastic project boxes for ~$5.00 that will work just fine. I run the VJ wide open for hours on end and the 15 watt Lpad is barely warm so cooling (or melting the plastic) isn't a huge concern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strangedogs Posted August 11, 2008 Author Share Posted August 11, 2008 FUD - so your using the 15-watt? I was gonna order the 50-watt to be sure as I know Sound Production Eq. (Guitar Amp) and Sound REPRODUCTION Eq. (Stereo) are rated a bit differently... Also I want a 16-Ohm for my VJ Combo Internal Speaker. Hows the tone with the VJ wide open and the L-Pad volume low (next room - while the "little woman" watches TV)? Is your tone acceptable - I'm lenient - just wanna be able to CRANK my baby up!!! I was using a Tubescreamer as an Attenuator - AMP wide open and TS LEVEL knob down. seems to work OK but can get a bit muddy... When MAMA goes shopping I let my BABY rip wide open - Man - I love that sound! Course I also crank up all my Amps when she goes off - even my 60-watt Roland SS - she told me 1 day she could hear me a block away with the windows up and car A/C running. Screw the neighbors - I WANNA ROCK. I always tell her (been telling her the same thing since 1973 when we met) "That's why they call it Rock & Roll Baby..." ;) Been hearing "TURN IT DOWN..." since the 60's - I'm almost 57 and darnit I'm entitled to make NOISE in my old age 'eh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Satan Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 No a simple rheostat will not do what you want. You would need a stacked pot with a specific curve to meet the impedance values you need to not destroy your OT. That or a box of resistors on a rotary switch like most aftermarket attenuators. You can make a simply inline one to plug and unplug if you like or have a single mode of attenuation on a DPDT switch. Here is a link to some info on attenuation, cheers mate. A bridged "T" is better anyways. Adam's Amps Attenuation Info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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