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G String Intonation


ant7629

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Hey guys

 

Just wondering if anyone else experiences problems with getting the intonation correct on the G string.

 

On all my guitars with tun-o-matics, I always run out of travel on the saddle screw and the intonation still isn't right. This is the same for my Casino, Epi LP, Gibby LP and SG! (Although the latter is kinda almost there).

 

I have read that reversing the saddle can sort this out.... is this true?

 

Thanks!

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Yup. Try a wound g. I've always found this tuning issue both frustrating and unacceptable. I've always wondered if EVERY damn guitar on the planet has this issue. Then I tried a wound g and never looked back.

 

True, if you absolutely NEED an UN-wound g, then you'll probably go crazy with the constant tuning left and right ... or have to modify your guitar with one of those compensated nuts. I just said "screw it" and went with the wound g. Perfect.

 

A wound g not only intonates much better, but I find it keeps it's intonation as long as the rest of the strings as well (meaning, pretty much forever until I replace the strings). I use to find the unwound g's intonation died VERY VERY quickly as the strings aged. Not so with wound g's - they stay pretty darn good.

 

Cheers.

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Thanks Ron' date=' that is really interesting reading. The only thing that would put me off the wound G would be bending, but I'm prepared to give it a shot.[/quote']

Sure, a wound G might not work for your playing style but it's easy enough to try.

I've heard that some string sets even come with both types of G strings or, if it

doesn't work out, just buy a single plain G and you're right back where you started.

I've posted that link a few times and lots of players were quite pleased with their

wound G results. Works for me!

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Hey guys

 

Just wondering if anyone else experiences problems with getting the intonation correct on the G string.

 

On all my guitars with tun-o-matics' date=' I always run out of travel on the saddle screw and the intonation still isn't right. This is the same for my Casino, Epi LP, Gibby LP and SG! (Although the latter is kinda almost there).

 

I have read that reversing the saddle can sort this out.... is this true?

 

Thanks![/quote']

 

It's true. I had to reverse the bridge saddle on my EPI LP Studio G string for that very reason.

It gave me the little bit more that I needed. Just unscrew 'till saddle is free, flip it, re-screw. You'll

see when you do it, it can be done, will have to remove retainer wire on tune-o-matic.

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Ant, I don't think it's any coincidence that the Earvana nut provides the most compensation at the G string. (No, not that kind of G-string, get your mind out of the gutter!)

 

EarvanaNut.jpg

 

It's only $35 bucks, but the tools necessary probably bring it to more like $100, but then you can use them for future installations. I've heard that having a guitar Buzz Feitenized by an authorized tech (the only way they sell it) is around $130, so if you're handy the Earvana may be a better way to go. Probably also a good idea to get a strobe tuner with various temperings would help to get things perfect after installation:

 

http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Peterson-StroboFlip-VSF-Virtual-Strobe-Tuner?sku=210056

 

In addition to getting yer axe to tune up properly, it also makes chords below the 5th fret sound good. And no reverse saddles, bridge travel screws or other cheats needed.

 

Cheers,

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Thanks for the replies guys, much appreciated as always.

 

Think I will try the reverse method first, then look to Earvana nut/wound G options later.

 

A question the reverse method, which is reverse?! The saddles are facing one way on the Casino, another on my SG and both of my LPs are different. My Casino for example has the saddles with flat vertical side facing the pickup and the angled side towards the tailpiece. My Gibby LP is opposite!

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Well, on the dot I just bought (factory strings - theoretically unmessed with), EAD have the flat side facing the bridge, and GBE flat side facing the pickup. The thing about reversing the saddles is that they are angled for a reason - to reduce string breakage due to stress caused by a sharp bend as they travel over the bridge.

 

Following that logic, a sharp angle is more likely to cause breakage on the lighter unwound strings. So for an instrument used for gigging, you might not want to increase your chances of string breakage. I think that's one advantage of the Earvana/Feiten systems. Also, if any saddles are at full extension and the guitar expands (under say, stage lights) then you might not be able to maintain perfect intonantion.

 

I guess I just feel better knowing I have a little saddle leeway in both directions. BTW, I had to move all the saddles on the dot toward the tailpiece, with the G and B butt at the end of travel. The factory intonation was way off. So like you, I will likely have to reverse them at next string change.

 

Lastly, if you buy Dan Erlewine's The Guitar Player Repair Guide, it comes with a DVD that has a section about how to deal with this whole bridge/intonation problem. Amazon has if for <$20.

 

Nigel20playing20Mr_Horsepower.jpg

 

Cheers,

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Thanks for the replies guys' date=' much appreciated as always.

 

Think I will try the reverse method first, then look to Earvana nut/wound G options later.

 

A question the reverse method, which is reverse?! The saddles are facing one way on the Casino, another on my SG and both of my LPs are different. My Casino for example has the saddles with flat vertical side facing the pickup and the angled side towards the tailpiece. My Gibby LP is opposite![/quote']

 

 

I reversed it on my EPI LP Custom. Flat side has to face the tailpiece. It gave me just enough adjustment to get the intonation right.

 

002-2.jpg

 

001-2.jpg

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Success! The reversing made a huge difference! I tried it on my Casino and it worked like a charm.

 

Now do I risk doing it on my Gibby LP and SG.....?

 

Thanks for all of the help guys!

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On March 05, 2009, ant7629 posted:

 

Thanks Ron, that is really interesting reading.

 

The only thing that would put me off the wound G would be bending, but I'm prepared to give it a shot.

 

I've used a wound 18 on several of my guitars for years and have always felt that the wound 18 bends easier than a plain 18. I'd typify myself as a blues-based rocker, so there's a lot of bending going on when I get started. Of course, this would be directly impacted by the core wire, but that's my general observation.

 

As far as the reversed saddle, that's exactly what I had to do on my Chinese Epi LP Standard and it took care of the intonation problems on that puppy.

 

I've just recently stumbled into the Epi Forums and have really enjoyed reading the comments & observations here. Looking forward to contributing when I have anything remotely relevant to add.

 

Play on........

 

Scott VanWinkle

Epi LP Standard

Epi 56 Gold Top (love this one!)

Epi Dot Neck

Dano 59 DC

Dano 12 string

61 Strat

MIM Nashville Tele (excellent little Tele, btw)

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