Swoop Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 I'm going to be replacing the selector switch plate on my Les Paul, because it's pretty stuffed. It came off easy, the glue holding it on is 14 years old after all. However I want to remove the residue of the glue underneath it, so when I put the new one on it has a clean and even surface to sit on. How can I do that without damaging the guitar finish? There's a bit of residual glue around the switch too, that doesn't get hidden by the plate. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AS90 Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 If you mean the glue under the plastic ring it will come right off with an alcohol wipe or something similar, even soap and warm water will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swoop Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 Is it safe to use a alcohol wipe on the finish though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigneil Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 test the wipe on the back of the guitar or somewhere that won't be noticed if it all goes wrong. wait 12 hours and then see if there is any damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMcClane5000 Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Fingernails? Depends how hard the glue still is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiddlinjd Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 naptha or soap and water. oorrr soap and water.... ....and then naptha to remove the inevitable soap scum... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matiac Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 HOT soapy waters yer safest bet. If you use any of the solvents mentioned above, work quickly, even on poly. If it were lacquer, I'd just go the water route, and hope for the best. And whatever you do, don't use acetone, cuz it'll etch the finish, and unless you want something looks like a BFG, I'd definately stay away from that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiddlinjd Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 naptha is safe, even on lacquer... it evaporates too quick to warrant a 'work quickly' hahaa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinTheHood Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 naptha is safe' date=' even on lacquer... it evaporates too quick to warrant a 'work quickly' hahaa[/quote'] You're kidding, right? From Wikipedia: Naphtha normally refers to a number of different flammable liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons, i.e. a distillation product from petroleum or coal tar boiling in a certain range and containing certain hydrocarbons, a broad term encompassing any volatile, flammable liquid hydrocarbon mixture. Naphtha is used primarily as feedstock for producing a high octane gasoline component (via the catalytic reforming process). It is also used in the petrochemical industry for producing olefins in steam crackers and in the chemical industry for solvent (cleaning) applications. Also from Wikipedia: One of the many uses of Naptha To lightly wear the finish (polish) off guitars when preparing "relic" instruments So yeah, I'm going to assume you were making a joke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiddlinjd Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 what they mean is it will de-grease the finish in order to get it started. part of the relic process is consistently over polishing the finish to give it a burned quality, that aged quality. when the finish is greased it loads up on the high grit and leaves scratches and inconsistencies which ain't very aged lookin'! when you do mechanically removed the finish, you can dry it out again using the solvent. and repeat, furthering your aging. the solvent doesn't remove the finish, this is why you can use it for light cleaning duty. although you can use the solvent in the process of light duty finish removal like that aging process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron G Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 WD-40 works better than anything, in my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSAKing Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 I'll pass along something that has worked for me countless times on various items: Spray on flux remover used for electronics work. Haven't looked at the label, but it may be CCL4 (Carbon tetrachloride). I have a Joe Pass here that I got and I dunno what the heck they had done to it, but was covered in a lot of spots with some sort of spray on glue. This stuff took it off tickety-boo. I have used it for cleaning gunk off countless items, so much so that I am almost out of it and have to get some more. Now a caveat - this stuff will also remove indelible ink, so do not use it on areas with logos, etc, nor would I use it on any sort of matt finish/non-sealed finish. Gloss (sealed) finished only, metals, glass, things like that. As usual - try it in an inconspicuous place first. And ... your mileage may vay... You have been warned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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