animalfarm Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 I snagged a "Seville" LP copy with a lawsuit-era headstock for my next refinishing project, at this point it's my intention to go to bare wood then hi gloss clearcoat the body and neck to create my own imitation "Gibson LP Studio Premium Plus" - Natural Maple with rosewood fretboard and black headstock, Gold hardware, white pup rings, amber speed knobs. This entire project will be done with KRYLON Acrylic in a can ONLY. I know - "Sacrilege, Sacrilege!!!! But it worked like a !&^##% on my Dean. So far all I've found is a couple of websites that say use poly sanding sealer, then the usual smooth-out sanding before clear coats. All I've found at StewMac says it's ok to spray clear on the wood and the binding, no reference yet to sanding sealer. I will NOT use NITRO - cure time TOO LONG, too soft. I've tried the acoustic sites, they talk about brush-on sealers or "french polishing" - NO. Still searching 'net, just thought I'd see if any advice was forthcoming from those who have gone before me regarding this issue. Yeah, I could always color-coat the guitar, I CAN pull that off, but I want to see the wood! The Dean Vendetta refinish I just did - I wasn't totally happy with the "shine", so I used Maguires swirl remover applied by hand, back and forth on ONE direction only over entire guitar, twice. Wiped down, the hit it with one coat of GHS guitar gloss - THE SHINE IS MIND-BLOWING!!! (I can watch TV in the reflection) I NOW know how I will polish all my project guitars from now on.... The Dean project was done with Krylon in a can only, btw. This is the look I'm thinking of at this point: The Dean Re-do" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RotcanX Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 Well, you'll have to judge, but since the guitar has previously been finished it's probable that sanding sealer won't be so necessary. Depends on how carried away you get when you strip it. But you may be able to go straight to the clear. You might just need a couple of extra coats to build up a good base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgifntx Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 'Spose linseed oil would push it too dark..? Sounds like a cool project! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 'Spose linseed oil would push it too dark..? Sounds like a cool project! Probably. Heard of Tung Oil for necks, but after seein' the Dean results, I'm heading for HIGH GLOSS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 uh, oh - this may be uncharted territory, If no one has answers, I'll pass on what I learn... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goldie Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 I don't see any real need for sanding sealer unless you are intending to fill the grain, which, on Maple is not rally needed. Without the sanding sealer, you will just need a few extra coats of clear to build your sheen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 I don't see any real need for sanding sealer unless you are intending to fill the grain' date=' which, on Maple is not rally needed. Without the sanding sealer, you will just need a few extra coats of clear to build your sheen.[/quote'] Yeah, my initial thinking is that the clear coat will BECOME the sealer - I plan on 4 coats, 1 week cure, wet sand, 4 more, cure, sand, 4 more, cure, final sand. THEN Hand rub with Maguires Ultimate compound for initial polish, followed with Maguires Swirl remover (2 or 3 times) for final polish. Gonna be labor-intensive, BUT my Dean project taught me that's just the way it is. I WILL document/pix of the project. Why? Because that's what this forum is for - we do more here than just brag about guitars, we hopefully learn from each other? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RotcanX Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 I plan on 4 coats' date=' 1 week cure, wet sand, 4 more, cure, sand, 4 more, cure, final sand. THEN Hand rub with Maguires Ultimate compound for initial polish, followed with Maguires Swirl remover (2 or 3 times) for final polish.[/quote']You shouldn't be wet sanding until the final step, before buffing/polishing. Intermediate 'leveling' of the finish should be done dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricochet Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 'Spose linseed oil would push it too dark..? Depends on how much you apply. I'll tell you one thing. Linseed oil will definitely stink up your guitar. I use it for fretboards, but the smell is so repulsive I have to leave the guitar well alone for a whole week...:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 You shouldn't be wet sanding until the final step' date=' before buffing/polishing. Intermediate 'leveling' of the finish should be done dry.[/quote'] AAAAA+++++ on the sanding recommendation, makes perfect sense. Thanks for the advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unreal77 Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 i love the orangey red of my 250, is it possible by staining to apply it on a natural riviera or dot? Let me know as i am completely clueless to theses things about refinishing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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