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Need info on sealing or NOT sealing natural wood before clearcoat!


animalfarm

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I snagged a "Seville" LP copy with a lawsuit-era headstock for my next

refinishing project, at this point it's my intention to go to bare wood then

hi gloss clearcoat the body and neck to create my own imitation "Gibson

LP Studio Premium Plus" - Natural Maple with rosewood fretboard and

black headstock, Gold hardware, white pup rings, amber speed knobs.

 

This entire project will be done with KRYLON Acrylic in a can ONLY.

I know - "Sacrilege, Sacrilege!!!! But it worked like a !&^##% on my Dean.

So far all I've found is a couple of websites that say use poly sanding sealer,

then the usual smooth-out sanding before clear coats. All I've found at StewMac

says it's ok to spray clear on the wood and the binding, no reference yet to

sanding sealer. I will NOT use NITRO - cure time TOO LONG, too soft. I've tried

the acoustic sites, they talk about brush-on sealers or "french polishing" - NO.

 

Still searching 'net, just thought I'd see if any advice was forthcoming from those

who have gone before me regarding this issue. Yeah, I could always color-coat

the guitar, I CAN pull that off, but I want to see the wood!

 

The Dean Vendetta refinish I just did - I wasn't totally happy with the "shine", so I

used Maguires swirl remover applied by hand, back and forth on ONE direction

only over entire guitar, twice. Wiped down, the hit it with one coat of GHS guitar

gloss - THE SHINE IS MIND-BLOWING!!! (I can watch TV in the reflection)

I NOW know how I will polish all my project guitars from now on.... The Dean project was

done with Krylon in a can only, btw.

 

This is the look I'm thinking of at this point:

 

390263.jpg

 

 

The Dean Re-do"

 

100_0217.jpg

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Well, you'll have to judge, but since the guitar has previously been finished it's probable that sanding sealer won't be so necessary. Depends on how carried away you get when you strip it. But you may be able to go straight to the clear. You might just need a couple of extra coats to build up a good base.

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I don't see any real need for sanding sealer unless you are intending to fill the grain' date=' which, on Maple is not rally needed. Without the sanding sealer, you will just need a few extra coats of clear to build your sheen.[/quote']

 

Yeah, my initial thinking is that the clear coat will BECOME the sealer - I plan on 4 coats, 1 week

cure, wet sand, 4 more, cure, sand, 4 more, cure, final sand. THEN Hand rub with Maguires Ultimate

compound for initial polish, followed with Maguires Swirl remover (2 or 3 times) for final polish.

 

Gonna be labor-intensive, BUT my Dean project taught me that's just the way it is. I WILL

document/pix of the project. Why? Because that's what this forum is for - we do more here than

just brag about guitars, we hopefully learn from each other?

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I plan on 4 coats' date=' 1 week cure, wet sand, 4 more, cure, sand, 4 more, cure, final sand. THEN Hand rub with Maguires Ultimate compound for initial polish, followed with Maguires Swirl remover (2 or 3 times) for final polish.[/quote']

You shouldn't be wet sanding until the final step, before buffing/polishing. Intermediate 'leveling' of the finish should be done dry.

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'Spose linseed oil would push it too dark..?

 

Depends on how much you apply. I'll tell you one thing. Linseed oil will definitely stink up your guitar. I use it for fretboards, but the smell is so repulsive I have to leave the guitar well alone for a whole week...:)

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You shouldn't be wet sanding until the final step' date=' before buffing/polishing. Intermediate 'leveling' of the finish should be done dry.[/quote']

 

AAAAA+++++ on the sanding recommendation, makes perfect sense. Thanks for the advice!

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