GeorgeKeen Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Newbie here. I play on a Epi Les Paul Studio and I think the neck can shed a bit of its radius to make it more comfortable. Does anyone have suggestions that would not ruin the guitar? I've heard suggestions like using a steel wool or a fine grit sandpaper to slim it down. Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 I also have an EPI LP Studio, and am happy with the factory radius. However, the only things I've heard regarding changing the radius are "Luthier-Level" mods, and involve resanding the fretboard and a re-fret job. Eeeeeeeee!!!! Not cheap. You can get radius sanding blocks from StewMac, but those are for use on an unfretted fretboard, then you install da frets. That's all I know.... Stewmac link: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Leveling/Fretboard_Radius-sanding_Blocks.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peeper Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Unless you are VERY experienced in re fretting and have a very complete understanding of the relationship the strings, nut, bridge, and the radius of the fretboard, I would just buy a guitar that feels good to you to start with. Just the fact that you asked the question tells me that this mod is well beyond your skill set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Flick Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Newbie here. I play on a Epi Les Paul Studio and I think the neck can shed a bit of its radius to make it more comfortable. Does anyone have suggestions that would not ruin the guitar? I've heard suggestions like using a steel wool or a fine grit sandpaper to slim it down. Thanks in advance! The radius is the arc of the fretboard' date=' for example a classical guitar has a relatively flat fretboard while electric has a more curved board. [img']http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/images/necks/radius_profile1.jpg[/img] I think you're saying you want to do is shave the back of your neck to make it thinner. Steel wool will remove the finish, but unless you have a lot of time on your hands, it won't do what you want it to do. Now you can sand it down, but you're asking for trouble. There's a metal truss rod running through the neck, sand it a little too much and you risk serious damage to your guitar. Not something I would recommend for the inexperienced, and frankly, you'd probably be better off finding a guitar with a neck to your liking. Sounds like you'd like a '60s style slim taper neck. If you are actually thinking about changing the fretboard radius, forget it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianh Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 What Jerry said, +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carverman Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Unless you are VERY experienced in re fretting and have a very complete understanding of the relationship the strings' date=' nut, bridge, and the radius of the fretboard, I would just buy a guitar that feels good to you to start with. Just the fact that you asked the question tells me that this mod is well beyond your skill set.[/quote'] +1 I've done 3 of my own homemade LP types..and it's definitely not a job for those with no experience! I had a bit of trouble doing mine and I got a Stew-Mac Gibson radiused fb with the fret slots precut..and it was a major effort putting in new frets correctly. Messing around with the neck or the fb to remove wood or change the radius can get you into a lot of trouble getting the guitar to play correctly afterwards. It's a bit similar to these "scalloped" freboards that I've heard about....the end result varies depending on whether it's done right or not! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carverman Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 I think you're saying you want to do is shave the back of your neck to make it thinner. Steel wool will remove the finish' date=' but unless you have a lot of time on your hands, it won't do what you want it to do. Now you can sand it down, but you're asking for trouble. [/quote'] Ok, so he was using the wrong nomenclature..he was talking about the neck profile (shape) and not the fb radius. I've made 3 neck through LP types of my own and I used a box cutter blade (on it's own) to scrape the profile to where I wanted it from a '59 LP blueprint from Stew-Mac and using my own Epi LP Custom as a model. It's doable but a fairly involved process as you need to caliper the thickness from the 1st fret to the 15th to get the desired thickness. I made wooden profile templates from the Epi LP for the 1st-5th, 5th to 9th and one for around the heel. There's a metal truss rod running through the neck, sand it a little too much and you risk serious damage to your guitar. Correct. The truss rod is about (13mm) or 9/16 deep from the flat surface of the neck (where the fb is glued), so that is still at least another 6mm (or 1/4 of an inch) of wood left at the 1st fret, (which is the most critical area) for thickness. You can't do too much sanding or shaving around the 1st fret. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeKeen Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 Ok' date=' so he was using the wrong nomenclature..he was talking about the neck profile (shape) and not the fb radius.[/quote']correct. i'm new with the jargon as well. after posting this, i went to my local guitar shop and asked the repair guy there (turns out he worked at fender custom shop, has visited the mex plant, etc.) and informed me that he wouldn't recommend it on an Epi LP because there isn't much "meat" on the neck to begin with. he went on to say the vintage guitars he loves have a "baseball bat" feeling on them and gave me some insight to "shaving" the neck, etc. i really want to see where i can take my stock Epi ie. i elmer glued foil paper on the plastic plates on back to help ground the body a little better. seemed to keep out some noise from the computer way better, less hum... thanks guys, i look forward to posting other tid bits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hungrycat Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 informed me that he wouldn't recommend it on an Epi LP because there isn't much "meat" on the neck to begin with. Bull. My LPC had a shaved down neck (maybe 2mm TOPS) and while it did break, it wasn't due to the neck being shaved. It was due to the typical weak spot under the nut at the headstock angle. You most definately CAN shave the neck of an Epi LP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antwhi2001 Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 I'm with Hungrycat. The weak area is around the nut and first couple of frets. It's safe to thin it out from around the 3rd fret on. I've done it with 1 Epi and 2 Gibsons. I use a medium grit sandpaper to get the bulk off, then fine grit followed by steel wool to smooth off. For me the most difficult part is refinishing it and matching the lacquer to make it invisible. I've found it easier with nitro aerosols than with poly. Your Epi will be poly, so you can't use nitro on it. You may struggle to match the colour / gloss level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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