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Casino Wiring help.


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My Casino is almost ready. The last thing I need to do is rewire the sucka.


So here's my issue. I wired it to the best of my ability but these wiring diagrams are complicated as hell. I managed to get sound from both of my pickups but my tone pots don't seem to be working. I might have wired them wrong.


Also, my volume pots are switched in some weird way. My neck volume pot actually controls the bridge pickup and vice versa.


Oh and some hum that goes away when I touch the pickup cover or the actual toggle switch.



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there's nothing you can do except get in there and do it right.

look at www.guitarelectronics.com

they have diagrams you can print out and have right in front of you.

go wire by wire and dbl check it all.


one way is to mount all the controls on cardboard outside the guitar.. and not put them in until they work perfectly.


I like my vols. reversed because I use the bridge more and like it upfront..


now take a deep breath.. say I can do this!. go in slow and easy and you will come out fine!


remember.. turn all pots to zero when soldering to their lugs.

try to follow the ten second rule. don't apply heat for longer than that, ever.

also.. use the right temp. iron. not one of those monsters that you can weld with.


just be patient.

You can get it!

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Thanks for the words of encouragement, Twang!


I managed to get the volumes working right but my tone pots don't seem to work.


From this diagram:





It seems that the cap needs to be soldered onto the output lug of the tone pot and soldered onto the input lug on the volume pot.


But, when I pulled out the wiring harness the first time, the cap was soldered onto back of the tone pot.


Man, this is kinda confusing.

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cool, and just so we don't have to go through this with every wiring job:


If your guitar has a buzz or hum that stops when you touch the strings...THEN IT IS PERFECT.


*that's not meant for you in particular anthony_jb, just anyone in general.

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We do that cause when heating the pot to solder you can burn a "dead" spot in the conductive material. You want that dead spot to be at the zero setting or you will not have proper use of the control and you'll have to replace it.

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