What is the white wire ? ^^

[alans056]

Hello!

 

I wanted to change the stock pickups on my Epiphone Les Paul Custom, but I found a strange wire.

 

 

Can anybody help ?

Thanks!

 

PS: the pickups I want to put are 57 classic Gibson.

 

[Albannach]

Try this link:- P.U. Wiring, while not specific, it covers most wiring systems and PUs.

 

Good luck

[alans056]

Thank you for your link.

 

But the cable ot my new pickup doesn't split! I can't connect it to 2 things

 

[alans056]

Alright I think I got it.

 

I sold the wire shield aswell.

[snookelputz]

Can't tell from the picture, but could it be the ground wire that runs up through the guitar body to either the bridge or stoptail?

[Albannach]

B.T.W. - Get rid of the cable ties! Opposing EMF, signal interference etc.

[animalfarm]

Normally, that white wire would be the jumper wire from the input

of the Volume pot over to the lower tab of the Tone pot (as viewed

from back of git), but what is throwing me off is the fact that you appear

to be holding a thick, shielded cable in your hand.

 

Where does the other end of the "thicker" cable go to? The white wire is

connected, the "bare wire" (with solder on it) appears to be a crappy ground

connection that came loose, and I CAN see a spot on the rear of same volume

pot that has solder,but no wire.... Hmmmm. I'm guessing the other end of the

"shield" is soldered to the back of a different pot - gotta keep the ground circuit

intact...

 

Your hand is blocking the rest of the wire, but - by chance, does the rest of the

wire you're holding go over to the Tone Pot directly across from the volume pot?

If so, is the white wire connected on THAT end?

 

Regarding your pic of "New, Vintage wiring/2-conductor" pup, the shield will

be sodered to ground (usually back of pot), and the center conductor will

be soldered to input tab of Volume pot. Can only go 2 places.

 

Refer to schematic:

 

[alans056]

Oh wait a second.

 

I solded the SHIELD to the top part of the pot, and the "inside cable" on the bottom part (where there is 3 little metal things sticking out) :/

 

Anyway I didn't get any results because I mixed up the two pick ups -____________________-' I KNOW LOL *FACEPALM* *FACEPALM* *FACEPALM* *FACEPALM*

 

And plus, the solding wouldn't stick !!! Jesus christ....

[animalfarm]

Mixing the 2 pups up is easy to do - Label, label, label.

Solder won't stick if -

wire(s) and iron tip aren't tinned, and iron isn't hot enough

to melt solder. "Tinning" the iron tip provides a "heat transfer bridge"

do allow heat to flow from tip to the solder point and melt the solder.

 

Hey. keep it up, we learn from our boo-boos! keep us informed as to

progress/problems.

[alans056]

Thanks a lot for taking the time to help me. I'm new to all this :/

 

So I am going to try everything again.

 

What is "tinning" ?

[animalfarm]

Thanks a lot for taking the time to help me.

 

What is "tinning" ?

 

No problem' date=' it's a group effort - we all share what we know/don't know

with each other. Only way to learn. I was holding off answering to allow

someone else the chance to jump in.

 

TINNING:

STEP 1: Prepare Wires

The wires that are going to be soldered need to be prepared beforehand. Strip 1/4"

of insulation from the end of the wire, and tightly twist the exposed strands.

 

STEP 2: Clean and Tin Soldering Iron Tip

The soldering iron tip must be cleaned and tinned prior to soldering to aid in the

transfer of heat to the wire end. [b']Wipe the tip on a wet sponge, and then apply a

small amount of solder to it. [/b]

 

STEP 3: Tin Wire

1. Heat the area of the wire to be tinned by placing the tip of the soldering iron along

the side of the exposed strands.

 

2. Apply solder to the wire (not to the soldering iron tip!). When the wire end reaches

a sufficient temperature, the solder will melt and the capillary action of the wire will draw

the molten solder up into the strands (Figure 3).

 

 

TIPS TO REMEMBER:

 

• Apply enough solder so that every strand in the twisted tip is surrounded by solder.

 

• Do not over-tin the wire or the solder may flow up under the wire's insulation causing

it to become rigid, or you will end up with globs of solder on the wire ends that will have

to be removed.

 

At this point, the wire(s) and the Pot tab or Back of pot are "Pre-loaded" with

solder and are ready to be "melted together". Wipe the Iron tip on the damp

sponge (to clean), and apply a small bit of solder BEFORE soldering the wire(s).

If you put too much solder on the tip, it COULD drip off onto your guitar finish,

causing intense cussing - so protect the guitar if you're going to do this while pots

are still in git.

[alans056]

thanks a lot!

 

i just put my earphones on with my iPod, and BACK TO WORK!!! :)

[alans056]

ALRIGHT!

 

One pickup done! The bridge! Wohoo!!

 

One question : the PU seems loose when I screw all the screws. It still "wobbles" inside the frame. How can I tighten it ?

[KevmanTA]

I have the same question, mine seem loose too..

[Dave]

One of my pet gripes is the inconsistency between manufacturers in color coding of the wires. There just ought to be a standard! (grin). If you can find the sample wiring diagrams for your pickup brand and model, it's much easier.

 

Since Humbuckers are mounted on small screws with springs for adjustment, they will always move a little. A light piece of foam underneath will firm them up and still allow vertical adjustment. If the springs are conical, make sure they are oriented large side toward the pup mounting ring (next to the head of the screw).

 

And, ALWAYS take digital pictures before you start disconnecting things. A picture prevents a thousand cuss words...

[animalfarm]

ALRIGHT!

 

One pickup done! The bridge! Wohoo!!

 

One question : the PU seems loose when I screw all the screws. It still "wobbles" inside the frame. How can I tighten it ?

 

Edit: Just saw Dave's post - Yep, Conical end check!!!!

 

Check the springs under the pup mounting ring - a LOT of

springs have one end that is larger than the other, the larger end goes

over the round plastic tab on the underside of the pup cover, with the smaller end

just fitting over the screw at the metal tab on the pickup itself.

Reverse the spring, instant wobble..... There will still be SOME give and take, but

it shouldn't go "FLOP, FLOP,,,".

Is this what you see?

 

Edit: before you put strings on, power up guitar with volumes turned down.

then, turn Neck volume up, gently tap on pup with metal screwdriver, you

should definitely hear the tapping. Then, do same for other pup. Turn neck vol down,

bridge vol up - tap, tap. If tapping is heard thru amp - CONGRATS!!!!!!!!

String up and play......

[alans056]

I just finished everything, but when I try the screwdriver test, it doesn't do anything :)

[animalfarm]

I just finished everything' date=' but when I try the screwdriver test, it doesn't do anything :)[/quote']

 

Ummmm, did you select NECK on 3-way switch before tapping

on neck pup, then Bridge before tapping on the bridge pup?

With volume up, of course.

 

Wired correctly via schematic, ALL grounds interconnected?

Did you accidentally drip solder between two pot tabs while wiring up?

Are you sure selector switch is wired correctly? If you assume switch is

accidentally reversed, tap the opposite pup of what you have selected.

[alans056]

Oh I see, the solding isn't solid enough I think, one cable just detached itself!

 

I will try again tomorrow, thanks!

[animalfarm]

Oh I see' date=' the solding isn't solid enough I think, one cable just detached itself!

 

I will try again tomorrow, thanks![/quote']

 

Sounds like your soldering iron isn't putting out enough

wattage/ getting hot enough - "Cold" solder joint will kill you.

(not literally).

 

Don't give up!!!!!

[Hungrycat]

Which one? The WHITE WIRE?

[BSAKing]

Just checking - you are using solder for electronics work with the flux in it are you? There are other solders designed for different applications (plumbing etc) which will not work well with a standard soldering iron.....

 

If so - make sure the tip is clean, screwed in well and tinned with fresh solder. Then it will transfer the heat to the components properly.

 

:)

[alans056]

Oh thanks, I have no idea! I just used the weird solder from my dad. it's like a big gun, it's not very accurate. i'll try to see if I can get another one!

 

EDIT:

here is what I have (not working) :

 

 

[BSAKing]

It is hard to tell from your picture, but make sure you do not have big globs of solder causing a solder 'bridge'. It almost looks in the picture like you have a big glob shorting the center of a potentiometer to ground, in which case - no output.....

 

If you have never soldered before, it is not rocket science, but there is a tecnique to it to ensure you have good electrical connections. Proper solder is a must. Search this group or google it...

 

Well worth reading up on since, if like most of us you hang onto guitar as a hobby, it is a worthwhile skill set to have.

[animalfarm]

It is hard to tell from your picture' date=' but make sure you do not have big globs

of solder causing a solder 'bridge'. It almost looks in the picture like you have a big glob shorting

the center of a potentiometer to ground, in which case - no output.....

 

If you have never soldered before, it is not rocket science, but there is a tecnique to it to ensure

you have good electrical connections. Proper solder is a must. Search this group or google it...

[/quote']

 

While BSAKing was posting, I was "doctoring up" your picture, and I pulled the

control cover off my LP Classic with the Gibson pups to once again look at how

I wired it in - looks just like Semour Duncan diagram. I'll post the pic in a bit...

 

To do this right, you'll need electronics rosin core solder (60/40 is ok)/Radio shack, AND

a "pencil style soldering iron/long with tip on one end, and cord at other end" with a CHISEL Tip

that will generate a minimum of 25- 35 watts of output (the higher, the better - $25.00

at Home depot. Radio Shack has 'em, more expensive).

The "GUN" style iron is OK for simple home repairs like soldering 2 wires together, but

not for the work you want to do...

 

My gibson pups have an outer Braided shield, and an inner single conductor,

that's it. Your pictures seem to show a Braided shield, an inner conductor, and

a Bare twisted strand wire? Is this the case? I don't know what brand of pups

you are installing.

 

Installing pups for the first time is FUN, isn't it?

 

Now the pic, and questions...

 

 

Box #1:

1. I see a huge blob of solder, (agree with BSAK) POSSIBLY bridging the gap between

end and middle tabs of pot.

2. I see what appears to be a bare wire just "hanging out in space", hopefully NOT

soldered to tab.

3. I don't see the center conductor wire soldered to tab.

 

Box #2:

1. I see a bare wire "hanging out in space" again.

2. I THINK I see a black center conductor wire at tab. Are the black wire and the red "jumper"

wire over to tone pot soldered together on tab?

 

Your pups may have been manufactured with the "bare wire" intended to be the GROUND

wire, rather than the outer shield... What brand of pups, and DID they come with any

info and/or installation instructions???

I see you have LOTS of extra wire from pups IF necessary to re-do from scratch to get

it right - Unsolder, recut, restrip, resolder.

 

Your initial problems are not insurmountable, sounds like "operator error" since this is the

FIRST time you've ever tried this. The only things that concern me at this moment are

removing blob of solder (solder wick or solder sucker needed), and did the "GUN" style

cause you to put too much heat on back of pot for too long? But, since you mentioned

one of your solder joints just pulled off, maybe not - it was a "cold Joint" - not enough

heat for too short a period of time.

 

D@mn shame there's not someone around to guide you thru a first time install, BUT

we'll try to help.... Our TECH TEAM is on standby!