New Guitar Help

[misadler]

Hi everyone,

 

My name is Mike and I'm new to the forum. i just bought my first Gibson, an RJ L-1, and I have some questions about caring for the guitar. First, there's no pickguard, and I use a pick sometimes. Anyone know how I can protect the finish (or if I should) without glueing a pickguard to it? Second, any suggestions for a good hygrometer and humidifier for the case (I live in the desert). Third, I've heard that certain kinds of straps and stands can damage the finish. Can anyone further enlighten me about this. And finally, anyone out there know what brand and gauge string these come with.

 

Thanks,

Mike

[Versatile]

Hi Mike...welcome to the forum

Great classic guitar you have...I'd like one too but can't run to one at the moment!

I've got a couple of guitars without pickguard and never have a problem although it depends how you strum or pick

I think it would be sacrilege to stick a pickguard on your's :unsure:

 

Humidity is a question often raised and maybe wait for a reply from a 'desert dweller' to share experience with

Some domestic barometers have a useful hygrometer built in or a quick google should give more info

 

Enjoy your guitar

 

Dust Your Broom etc.

 

 

 

 

[rar]

Hi everyone

 

Hi, Mike! Welcome!

 

Anyone know how I can protect the finish (or if I should) without glueing a pickguard to it?

 

I don't think there's anything you can or should do. The choices are pretty much pickguard, pick damage, and not using a pick.

 

Second, any suggestions for a good hygrometer and humidifier for the case (I live in the desert).

 

For a hygrometer, you want to go digital. Cheap is fine. (Cheap or expensive, you should calibrate it. Google "hygrometer calibrate salt" to find instructions.) They're available on the Web, of course, and at Radio Shacks and some music stores if you prefer to shop locally. Planet Waves has a slightly more expensive model that records the highest and lowest readings since the last time you reset the highest and lowest readings, if that sounds appealing. For a humidifier, sponges in baggies work as well as anything: ask (or google) for more detailed instructions if that sounds appealing.

 

Third, I've heard that certain kinds of straps and stands can damage the finish.

 

With straps, vinyl is the problem. Stay away from any strap with a plastic-y back. Or front. With stands, it's the ones with what looks like surgical tubing for protection that you have to worry about. Buy a nice Hercules or something, and you'll be fine.

 

And finally, anyone out there know what brand and gauge string these come with.

 

The official answer is Gibson Masterbuilts, light gauge. (Of course, dealers have been known to change strings.)

 

-- Bob R

[devellis]

One potential issue with calibrating a hygrometer is that the errors are not constant along the range of relative humidity values. So, if you minimize the error at 75% RH, that gives you no indication of the error at the "sweet spot" between 34% and 55%. In fact, optimizing it for accuracy at high humidity may actually worsen accuracy at the lower values where you most need to be concerned.

 

Despite all the talk about hygrometers being very inaccurate, I have three pretty good ones (La Crosse Technology, Oregon Scientific, and Control Company) and, when I put them in the same environment, they only disagree by about 1%, so at least they're reliable and consistent.

 

I think the key with guitars and humidity control is "reasonable care." Keep it between 35% and 55% and all will be well. Those are the values published by several museums that maintain valuable musical instrument collections. If you go below that range slightly, briefly, and infrequently, it's unlikely anything terrible will happen (although prolonged exposure to air below 30% could spell disaster for some instruments and isn't advisable for any of them). At the high end, sustained humidity above 65% will support mold proliferation and ferrous metals can be adversely affected. Also, guitars can start sounding kind of "tubby" when exposed to high humidity.

 

Some argue that guitars acclimate to their environment and the greatest hazard is when a guitar is new (less than a couple of years old) or when it's moved to a very different climate. That may be true, I'm not sure. But the good news is that most guitars survive quite well in most environments.

 

Finally, you'll hear a lot of stories form people who have had guitars at 15% RH for 30 years with nary a problem. Those stories may be true, but they're not necessarily a good model to follow. There are also people who've jumped out of airplanes, had their parachutes fail to open, and lived to tell about it. But you don't see sky divers leaving their chutes on the tarmac before boarding the aircraft on the basis of those few cases.

[spanishoaknc]

One potential issue with calibrating a hygrometer is that the errors are not constant along the range of relative humidity values. So, if you minimize the error at 75% RH, that gives you no indication of the error at the "sweet spot" between 34% and 55%. In fact, optimizing it for accuracy at high humidity may actually worsen accuracy at the lower values where you most need to be concerned.

 

Despite all the talk about hygrometers being very inaccurate, I have three pretty good ones (La Crosse Technology, Oregon Scientific, and Control Company) and, when I put them in the same environment, they only disagree by about 1%, so at least they're reliable and consistent.

 

I think the key with guitars and humidity control is "reasonable care." Keep it between 35% and 55% and all will be well. Those are the values published by several museums that maintain valuable musical instrument collections. If you go below that range slightly, briefly, and infrequently, it's unlikely anything terrible will happen (although prolonged exposure to air below 30% could spell disaster for some instruments and isn't advisable for any of them). At the high end, sustained humidity above 65% will support mold proliferation and ferrous metals can be adversely affected. Also, guitars can start sounding kind of "tubby" when exposed to high humidity.

 

Some argue that guitars acclimate to their environment and the greatest hazard is when a guitar is new (less than a couple of years old) or when it's moved to a very different climate. That may be true, I'm not sure. But the good news is that most guitars survive quite well in most environments.

 

Finally, you'll hear a lot of stories form people who have had guitars at 15% RH for 30 years with nary a problem. Those stories may be true, but they're not necessarily a good model to follow. There are also people who've jumped out of airplanes, had their parachutes fail to open, and lived to tell about it. But you don't see sky divers leaving their chutes on the tarmac before boarding the aircraft on the basis of those few cases.

[spanishoaknc]

[biggrin]Welcome to the Gibson Family / This is a Great Place to get Information about your Gibson. / A bunch of great people willing to help make the best of your best {Gibson} / There is a web site called: frets.com that has a lot of good and wise information on guitars / Try its you will be glad you did / Have Fun and Enjoy Your Gift of Music / Blessings from North Carolina

[eds111]

Welcome; cool guitar!!

 

my 2 cents:

 

Hydrometers. I would get a decent one. I have several of the Planet waves and they are all over the place. Sometimes they are close to each other some times +/- 7%. I bought Western Caliber III based on a recommendation from someone here. I think it was $20 or so. I bought 4; they are always within 1% of each other. Get two; one for in the case and one out.

 

Humidity control: I use the Planet Waves in hole humidifier. Works good. In addition I highly recommend a humidifier at least in the room where you keep your guitar; close the door when you are storing it. I use a a Holmes HM5305. I have four of them and I can keep my 800 sf apartment at 40%-45% through the winter. If your house is humidified, the in-case humidifier is less important.

 

Pick guards: They make a clear plastic pick guards that stick on without glue. They are like plastic decals. Can come on and off at will. I have seen them in guitar stores. They put them on when you demo them, then take them off. They also make clear permanent guards.

 

Guitar Stands: The plastic does react with the lacquer; but it has to sit on it for long periods of time or very frequent. You can always cover the plastic with a cloth. Store it in the case for sure.

 

Hope this helps. Good luck!!

[devellis]

Peel-off clear pickguards are great but if they're vinyl, prolonged contact with a nitrocellulose finish can be a real problem. The plasticizers that make the vinyl pliable also soften nitrocellulose. So, exercise due caution.

[BigKahune]

Welcome.

 

On congrats on yer RJ L-1. B)

 

The members have posted some good advice. I just want to emphasize what Devellis and Eds 11 mentioned -

 

I've seen a couple posts on these forums detailing damage done by clear vinyl "peel-off" pickguards. Don't use them unless they are clearly marked for use with nitro finishes (I don't use them period). Some types of vinyl react with nitro finishes and can cause damage.

 

Guitar stands - if they have vinyl, rubber or foam at the points where the stand contacts the guitar, use a cotton cloth (preferably white - no dyes) to protect your nitro finish from contact with the rubber or foam. Some types of vinyl, rubber and foam react with the nitro finish and can cause damage form a stain/blemish to melting of the nitro.

[fortyearspickn]

One thing I've not sen mentioned, which I've found to be true - most contemporary Gibson finishes will be marred if you get Lemon Oil on them. Some use Lemon Oil occassionally to 'treat' the fingerboard - which is cool. But if you let it drip, drop or slop on your finish, it will slightly melt it.

[BigKahune]

One thing I've not sen mentioned, which I've found to be true - most contemporary Gibson finishes will be marred if you get Lemon Oil on them. Some use Lemon Oil occassionally to 'treat' the fingerboard - which is cool. But if you let it drip, drop or slop on your finish, it will slightly melt it.

 

Good point. Lemon oil has a solvent in it, that in limited amounts, is good for cleaning the fretboard, but you shouldn't use it as a mosturizer, as the solvent in it can loosen glue. For mosturizing and oiling your fretboard try Fret Doctor or a similar product - http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm (scroll down to Fret Doctor) <no affiliation>

[misadler]

Thank you everyone for the great info. I was wondering about the clear stick on pickguards especially, and advice on a good hygrometer. Again, thanks everyone.

[TommyK]

Here's a couple makers of static cling pick guards:

 

http://www.12fret.com/new/guitar_guard_pg.html

 

You a fan of Star Trek? "They're Klingon's capt'n"

 

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?NameProdHeader=Removable+Pickguards

 

I've seen numerous online purveyors selling the Kling-on brand. So shop around.

[TommyK]

Oh, and WELCOME misadler!

 

Leave you guns in the car

and keep an eye on your wimmen.