NightTimeConcealmentX91 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 deleted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrorod Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Here is an example from a '65 HBird....Not for the average Layman, IMHO... My link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedzep Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Yep. Glued and/or bolted on bridges are removed easily at the tool bench of your local music store luthier. If you have a valuable vintage Gibson, Martin, or other higher priced guitar you'd want to see his work before hiring. Go to luthier websites and watch how it's done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drathbun Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 The correct answer is "very carefully". They are glued on to the wood top. Removal requires special tools and expertise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearbasher Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 I had a bridge lifting on an '80 Guild D55. I removed it by heating the bridge with my clothes iron to soften the glue. I then slowly worked a feeler guage under it until it completely lifted. Cleaned the bridge and the top and reglued it using long-throat c-clamps and some machine screws through the string holes. It came great but.... The second time I tried a bridge reglue (on a Guild DV-52), I overheated the top and lifted a big patch of nitro. I had to refinish the entire top. A side note...I used a hair dryer to remove the nitro from the top. Moral of the story: Kids, don't try this at home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windwalker9000 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Well to start with if you really like the guitar Don'T do it yourself. A pro would use a special heat gun to loosen the glue so as to not mess up the finish and warp the sound board, and then the plate under the saddle must be removed with care you sure wouldn't want to fracture the plate when removing it. Another thing if you do not have the proper tools and the skill to use them you want be able to replace it correctly. Again my advice to you is DON'T Do it Yourself!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightTimeConcealmentX91 Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 deleted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Also, If I were to remove a bridge would I need a certain tool without damaging and to properly remove it? Thanks, Jake. Stewmac sells a very thin "spatula" type tool for getting under bridges and pickguards. For use after you've softened the glue with a bit of heat, of course. Not a job for the timid, as it's very easy to damage the finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroAussie Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Yep, definitely not a task for me .... I failed woodwork in junior high miserably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Yep, definitely not a task for me .... I failed woodwork in junior high miserably. Apparently, you got out of woodshop with all your fingers, which is the first step. Otherwise, you'd have ended up playing Jerry Garcia-style. Come to think of it, that didn't slow him down very much, did it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TommyK Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Some Gibsons and Epiphones, maybe others, are glued and screwed. The tell tale sign of screws are MOP or plastic dots or artistic flourishes of MOP or plastic, covering the screw heads on the bridge. If you suspect a bolt-on bridge, check inside, under the bridge for nuts. One needn't, necessarily, to remove the screw covers to remove the bridge. Removing the nuts on the back side should be sufficient, along with softening the glue. Most guitars, especially better quality ones, are glued together with hide glue. This type of glue is loosened with heat. This can get a bit snaky for the newby. The usual procedure is to protect the surrounding area with an insulative material, only exposing the bridge, then a heat lamp or special heat tool designed for the purpose is placed above or on the bridge to heat it up. Heat it too fast or too hot for too long you will scorch things. Once the glue is softened, though, you can pry it off with a flat bladed paint scraper. The glue turns to a semi-liquid goo, like gum on a hot sidewalk. Go easy and a consistent, gentle pressure will cause the glue to release. Good luck and don't do this the first time on a borrowed guitar, or an expensive one. Bridges are glued directly to the wood. The replacement bridge should be identically sized and shape to cover the 'scar'. Oversize bridges are available for replacement as well. Just a tad oversized so you can cover the old scar. Go to Frets.com to learn more about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightTimeConcealmentX91 Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 deleted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.