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Opinion needed


Kaiser Bill

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If you aren't going to use it...I wouldn't tempt fate. It looks like you might be close to lossing it.

 

It looks like the top is starting to lift off. That's a bigger threat than the corrosion, or that build up. The coil is wound directly onto the poles, and the poles are held in position only by the top fiber plate and the bottom. So, any movement of the poles relative to the coil has a good chance of breaking it. If any of the coil has lifted from it's origonal shape, and you try and put that top plate back on...

 

Let me bounce around for a minute: It's an origonal pup. It looks like a late 60's, so it's worth, monetarily, say, 200-300 bucks as an origonal. Less than that because it's coming apart. So, I really see only two uses for it- either to keep with the guitar as the origonal that still works, or for comparing other pups to it. So, what's your intentions?

 

If you choose to put it back in and use it for regular playing, it's on the clock. But, personally, if you want to RESTORE it without rewinding it, I would give it a 50/50 chance you will get that bobbin down without breaking the coil. If you do, it will likely last a long time, but it doesn't look good it will happen.

 

If you don't want to send it to someone with skill and practice (SEARCY), and you want to chance it, I offer this:

 

If you are going to put the string back on, then it's a good idea to get some of the gunk off. If you are heavy on the solvents, of soak it, you run the risk of pushing it back into the coil. Any dist or particles you cant disolve and lift will be worse off in the coil than where it sits. I would dampen a Q-tip, just enough to grab what you touch but not leave any. Don't apply real pressure in rubbing, as what's stuck will bring wire to it. I like denatured alcohal because it evaporates quick, and won't disolve laquer or enamal or poly. I would stress here, the dirt isn't doing real harm unless it is pushed into the coil, and the coil is allowed to move.

 

If, and when putting the string on, don't stack it in such a fashion as to push up on the bobbin, or MOVE after it is applied. To be honest, I don't remember how it was applied for that particular year, string, tape, etc. DON'T tape the pup or the coil. But a good idea might be a layer if string, then tape the string to hold it in place, then a layer of string.

 

Of corse, I would still ask SEARCY. I am sure he has some ideas.

 

Oh, one more thing- if you are wanting to pust the top plate back down, use pressure, don't strike it. I would put even pressure on the back magnets (as that is what you want to push the top onto), do what ever you can to limit the coil moving, and apply even pressure to the top plate on both side of the magnets, as close to the magnets as you can. And, I would do it FIRST before any attempts to clean it to minimize any change to the coil, or getting more gung in there.

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Thanks so much for the comprehensive reply.

 

Yes, this pup came on a '69 Tele. The original owner replaced it with a Duncan and put this in the Duncan Box where its been for many years (I assume) from the looks of it. I have just had the bridge plate and the knobs re-chromed and was thinking while it was all apart I could restore it to original by putting the'69 pup back in it. I had no idea it was so corroded. I will follow your advice and see if I can gently remove the green "spoodge" that is everywhere. Perhaps I can clean it to a point where I am satisfied with it without damaging it. There was no string on it.

 

I have PMed Searcy and asked for his help. Thanks for the referral.

 

Again I truly appreciate you input and help.

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I've gone over the pup with several Q-tips dipped in alcohol, and 99% of the green "fuzz" is gone. Thanks so much for this idea. I almost broke the hair wire that comes off the coil...ALMOST. Saw it just in time Lucked out!! Still haven't heard from Searcy.

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How's it going buddy? Sorry for the wait. I've been at physical therapy all day.

 

 

You lucked onto the proper way to do it. The most important thing is to never forget how delicate that magnet wire is and how much trouble you've caused if you break it. I have a set of very fine soft brushes I use for this job. Once I'm done I usually re-pot a Fender pickup and store it in a clearly labeled zip lock bag. This will keep the green crud from growing back.

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That vid there? That's AMAZING that 4 out of rour of these pups were saved!

 

I would for sure stress, I think a lot of the reason WHY Searcy was able to save them this way was all the time and effort "softening" them up, at the same time, NOT messing with the windings and coils, so when the tops were re-flattened, the coils were likely not changed or re-arranged before doing so.

 

Those wires, they aren't just delicate on the outside, they are delicate on the inside as well. Pressure on the coil or magnets, or top plate, anything that causes the magnets wires to rub against each other, that will break it. As a whole, the pup is usually pretty strong when the coil is unmolested, the poles usually stay put, etc. But if something moves, ANYTHING moves that causes the wire to change position on the coil itself, or causes the coil to change shape, you can't put it back.

 

Late 60's pups as far as I know were not waxed, and naturally, it could change the sound. But if it still works, you might have it waxed because that will preserve it and give it strength.

 

If it's real important to you, you might think about having it done, or even, sending to Searcy. But to be honest, there really are no guareentees at this point it could be restored 100%. I STILL wouldn't be surprised that even a guy like Searcy could get it flattened and not break a wire inside.

 

Then again, what's it worth? A rewind isn't the end of the world.

 

Nice work, all the way around.

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That vid there? That's AMAZING that 4 out of rour of these pups were saved!

 

I would for sure stress, I think a lot of the reason WHY Searcy was able to save them this way was all the time and effort "softening" them up, at the same time, NOT messing with the windings and coils, so when the tops were re-flattened, the coils were likely not changed or re-arranged before doing so.

 

Those wires, they aren't just delicate on the outside, they are delicate on the inside as well. Pressure on the coil or magnets, or top plate, anything that causes the magnets wires to rub against each other, that will break it. As a whole, the pup is usually pretty strong when the coil is unmolested, the poles usually stay put, etc. But if something moves, ANYTHING moves that causes the wire to change position on the coil itself, or causes the coil to change shape, you can't put it back.

 

Late 60's pups as far as I know were not waxed, and naturally, it could change the sound. But if it still works, you might have it waxed because that will preserve it and give it strength.

 

If it's real important to you, you might think about having it done, or even, sending to Searcy. But to be honest, there really are no guareentees at this point it could be restored 100%. I STILL wouldn't be surprised that even a guy like Searcy could get it flattened and not break a wire inside.

 

Then again, what's it worth? A rewind isn't the end of the world.

 

Nice work, all the way around.

 

Yep, It was 50% skill and 50% luck that saved those Jazz pickups. The tone gods knew I was doing that job for free and smiled on me.

 

A CBS Fender pickup should have been lacquer potted. From my experience it's pretty hit and miss. Some got potted and some didn't.

 

Honestly the warping on this Tele pickup doesn't look all that bad to me. I count my blessings and put it in a safe place. If it fails at some point and needs a rewind then I would look at fixing the warp. I know a guy who can do it. [biggrin]

 

IMG_20120510_181014.jpg

 

Here's a 1968 I just rewound for a Paisley restoration a guy was working on.

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What about contact cleaner??? That is what the stuf is made for. I would hold it back away a bit but I would spray it with contact cleaner and go for it. What have you got to loose anyway?? Also the contact cleaner would also take the corrision off of the plate too. Tim

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I would never consider using alcohol or any other solvent or liquid for that matter on an old pickup or any old electronic circuitry etc. If you have done such things in the past with no ill effects don't take it for granted that it's safe to do so because you most likely got off lucky.Old windings may be held in place by old shellacs etc. and any liquid at all could jeopardize the adhesion ability of the binding agent.Cleaning of any old and possibly valuable pickups etc. should be done with the utmost care and least invasive means or you could be causing irreversible damage.

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