Sheepdog1969

Ned sure had "a purdy mouth"!

I interned for Continental Coffee Products Company in the 80's. (CCPC was a large part of Continental Foods, which owned ARA, Sysco, etc.) CCPC had multiple "factories" that Roasted and processed the thousand or so different types of coffee we sold. (I helped land the 7/11 contract, which was massive) Had Staley-Continental not been acquired by Tate & Lyle, (who then broke up and sold off Continental Foods to Kraft, etc., CCPC (Coffee) would have been my career. What part of the Coffee industry did you work in Crowb8?

Does anyone else get "Deliverance" flashbacks when banjo's are played/talked about?

You are correct about DC metro, but Federal Law still considers Pot a controlled substance. Since the White House if Federal Property, (and because pot is specifically listed as a prohibited substance in the White House), DC Metro laws do not apply.

Oh! Did not know that. Thanks for teaching me something new! Sorry brother.

I'm guessing each of these menu items are a bit salty and chocked full of potassium. I think I will stick to good old fashioned American wieners stuffed into warm buns. (...er... that sounded more innocuous in my head than it did in print.)

I feel for you brother, and I think I understand what you want to accomplish. First, regarding the CD player install for your truck: Can you just put a "Head unit" that has the functionality you desire, somewhere else in the cab and wire it up? You could leave the existing factory stereo in place if necessary, but disconnect it's speaker wires. Sure, your going to have to run power to the new unit and figure out the speaker wire routing, but it would work. Just a thought. Second, regarding creating a "universal" mix: Is is possible for you to generate unique mixes for each format you want to release the "album" in, thus addressing the specific tonal issues each format presents? I understand that a mix that sounds great on vinyl through a home system may not translate well to a MP3/MP4 or WAV format. I do agree that studio 93db+ monitors, with 5" woofers, in a fairly non-reflective room, tend to force unrealistic mixes with EQ issues and track levels that do not translate well to end user systems. EQ low ends (1200hz to 20hz) may get pushed in studio but produce "mud" when played through end user systems. Mids and highs tend to be under developed in studio mixes as well, resulting in more "mud". Snare levels are just as confusing. Vocal clarity and lead guitar crispness become "lost" when played through less efficient speakers, (less than 93db). Compression processes in digital formats compound these issues. The real question is, "What type of system(s) should we assess the mix through?" (and how do differing formats sound through said system, despite the mix being identical?) If I am on track with where you are, let me know.

How sad is this. I used to, religiously, wax my car by hand twice a year. I did not just apply a coat of wax, and remove it, but would do a "wax Cleaner" coat, a Polish coat, and a Finish wax coat. 2 years ago that process left me in severe pain for a week. So, thinking I would make it easier on myself, I bought a quality orbital buffer. That would make it easier, right? Except the buffer is not light, and the process of reaching out and holding it, especially for the roof and center areas of my car, resulted in similar, days long agony. This year I hired a neighbor kid who is a car guy to do it for me, using my tools and materials. Being a supervisor is far less painful. He did a great job for $100, some Gatorade, and lunch!

So, I did a bit a research and found out a few things. Apparently, even a fairly worn out $20 bill from 1934, with the Green seal, would fetch at least $30-$40, and even more if it's serial numbers were just weird enough for some collectors. (Obviously uncirculated bills, or lightly used bills would fetch far more.) But here is the Kicker! There are 1934 and 1934A series $20 Hawaii notes available. On these bills the word Hawaii is clearly printed on the left hand side of the bill and on the entire back of the bill. Each note has a brown seal. This was an overprint that was issued as a response to the Pearl Harbor attack. The theory was that if Japan took over Hawaii then they would capture a lot of US currency. If that happened then the US government would declare any Hawaii stamped note to be invalid. Depending on condition $125-$2,500

The collective "alphabet" agencies were able to use every means possible to identify and locate nearly every person who at the Capitol on Jan. 6th, regardless if they committed a crime or not. The Secret Service and the FBI used extensive "contact tracing" to mitigate the spread of COVID in the White House, and were easily able to track every person who had been in the WH. This is a "Sargent Schultz" "investigation". https://giphy.com/explore/i-see-nothing

Regarding the White House specifically, the Secret Service is the sole agency tasked with providing Security for the facility and it's occupants. Since the Secret Service's investigative capabilities are geared towards threat assessments, they may request the services of the FBI to assist in any investigation. The FBI's lab was used to identify the "powdered substance" found in the West Wing, which the FBI determined to be Cocaine.

Obviously, choosing the right tool depends on what you want to use it for. If you live on a 1/4 acre lot, then you probably don't need a 72" commercial, zero turn, lawn tractor. Similarly, if you just use your cell phone to make and receive phone calls, and occasionally send/receive a text, a $1,200+ Smart phone is a waste of money, (especially if your age makes reading small text on a small screen difficult.) I am quite tech savvy, but people I know are shocked to see that I only have a 4g flip phone, and no "Smart Phone." My $40 per month cell phone has unlimited voice and texting, and that's all I need it for. At home, I have a desk top with connected printer, that I use just for print jobs, scanning, and some streaming from time to time. I have an under $400 laptop that is integrated into my entertainment system for streaming on my 55" 4K TV, for internet browsing with a wireless keyboard and mouse from my couch, for my MP3/MP4 music library which plays via HDMI through my 7.2 DTS/Atmos system, and as the primary computer I use to write, compose (MIDI interface/controller/tone library), and record. Since I routinely back up all of my devices/computers onto a Hi-cap portable drive, I just replace my inexpensive, but quality tech, if and when needed with newer inexpensive but quality tech. The one device that I do use more than all of the above mentioned items, is my Android Tablet. I bought my first one about 11 years ago after seeing how cool the one I bought for my 6 year old daughter was. I have never paid more than $120 for one, but I have burned through 3 to date. I like a 10" screen, at least, and use a mini SD card for primary storage (as many gigabytes on the mini SD as the tablet supports), so internal storage space on the tablets is not an issue. I focus on processor speed, graphics capabilities, and WIFI connectivity speed when I buy one. I use it to read the news and articles that interest me. I check my e-mail with it. My music library is copied onto the mini SD, so I use it as a "source" for my Bluetooth speaker when out in the "back 40" at the campfire and the like. I use the camera to "scan" documents when I am in a rush (and to take pics around the property). I rarely use it anywhere but at home, but I do take it on vacation for E-mail access. It only connects via WIFI, and has no "cellular" network capabilities. If and when I drop it, break it, or when it fails, I pop out the mini SD and buy a new one. Even the inexpensive ones I buy can do far more than I typically ask of them, but I find I am using more of it's capabilities as time goes by. I really don't think I would be able to use my tablet as a replacement for my other PC's, but maybe a high end Tablet could do that. (That is until I drop it into the toilet accidentally, which is something not likely to happen with my desk top/lap top)

Just a word of warning about Apple Macs and laptops. Years ago my aging parents asked me about Apple computers. I explained that they were expensive, tended to be geared towards graphics applications and music and the "arts", tended not to get viruses, and that I had far more expertise in the IBM type systems so I would not be much help when they needed it. 7 years later, both of their Apples, ($4k+ in cost) were unable to support Apple's current browser, and the browser that they were using would no longer work to access the web sites they needed to use. Apple calls this "Phased obsolescence", and despite upgrading both computers RAM to the max, they both became useless. I currently have my 82 year old Dad running a $350 Lenevo IBM protocol, Windows driven Laptop, which is 4 years old and does exactly what he wants it to do.

She did do you a favor. That "Bill" is worth far more than it's $20 face value. Without looking it up, I bet it was a "Silver Note", (Silver Notes have a Blue Dept. of the Treasury Seal, (instead of Green) on the right side of the Portrait on the Bill's face, on top of the written word describing the Bill's denomination. Silver Notes were to be "backed" by silver, and are quite collectable!

LOL! No, he is a true American who got sick of what was happening in DC during 44.

Until 6 months ago, I used a "Bunn-O-Matic" coffee machine, (pour the desired amount of water into the reservoir, dump the desired amount of coffee into the paper filter fitted into the removable "filter/coffee holder thingy", flip the switch, and wait for the pot to fill.) It made "coffee", but nothing to write home about. Then a friend told me about a "French Press". I had heard about them, but assumed one would need to drink what it made with your pinky finger "out" while looking down your nose at everyone. A few days later he stopped by with his "Press" and a small bag of "the cheapest medium grind, medium roast coffee" Walmart sells. He told me to brew a pot of the Medium Roast Dunkin' Donut coffee I had, and he would make 4 cups of the Walmart crud in his Press, using 155 degree (f) water, (and equal amounts of coffee to how I made mine.) If I liked his better, I was to buy a French Press. Needless to say, I now use a French Press! Nearly every "coffee machine" heats the water, (I do use filtered water, btw), to boiling, which "scalds" the coffee grounds, making the brew bitter. Additionally, each "machine" "pours" that boiling water over the grounds in a varying and suboptimal way, never really exposing the coffee grounds to the right amount of water, at the correct temperature, for the right amount of time. With a French Press, Temperature and Time are controlled by you. 155 degree (f) water is poured into a vessel containing your desired amount of medium grind coffee, which is then held under the water by a "screen/filter" device, (the grounds are initially held just about 1/4 of an inch below the surface of the water), for just under 4 minutes. At just under 4 min., the press is slowly pushed fully down, pushing the grounds to the bottom of the vessel, allowing the brewed coffee to be poured out. (Temp, time, water volume, and volume of grounds can be varied to your own taste, btw.) Those who add milk/cream to their "Joe" may need to warm up the milk/cream, because refrigerated products, added to your cup, will drastically lower the 155 degree coffee temp!

Try using 155 degree (f) water, not boiling water, (if you are heating the water yourself). 210 degree (f) (boiling) water "scalds" the grounds and makes the coffee taste bitter. This 155 degree method makes a huge difference in taste. Let me know what you think after trying it this way!

I have a friend who is a Department of the Treasury, U.S. Secret Service Special Agent. He worked in D.C. for decades on POTUS' personal protection detail. But, after having two kids and never seeing them or his wife, he decided to slow down and relocate to a field office closer to family and friends where he grew up. He currently runs the "counterfeiting" investigative detail in his area. He once told me that the best way to train bank tellers/employees, and/or any individuals who are tasked with handling/exchanging US Currency, to detect counterfeit currency, IS TO NEVER LET THEM SEE OR TOUCH "FUNNY MONEY". He explained that ALL US currency, no matter when it was printed/minted, whether crisp and new or old and worn, has a consistent, unique, visual/tactile quality discernable by those who constantly handle it. These unique currency attributes become ingrained into the sub-conscious of "money handlers". As such, when and if one of these "money handlers" sees/touches/handles counterfeit currency, it "sticks out like a sore thumb.". Every single piece of counterfeit US currency ever seized by the Secret Service is kept, curated, cataloged, studied, and criminally investigated. Before and after the "strip" in paper currency existed , before and after the "pen" test existed, nearly every single piece of counterfeit currency removed from circulation was because a "money handler" observed something "not right" when handling it, and then reported it. And Yes, every single time any individual reports a possible counterfeit piece of US currency, regardless of which law enforcement agency they report it to, a Secret Service Special Agent is sent to determine the veracity of the report, collect any currency determined to be counterfeit, and to initiate an investigation regarding said counterfeit currency. As of today, every piece of US Paper currency and coinage is "Legal Tender", and must be accepted by any US business engaging in financial transactions with the public. Any said business who "chooses not to accept paper currency and/or coinage", for what ever reason, must provide a "no cost, no fee" alternative that allows customers the ability to exchange/transfer currency into a "single use" "card", voucher, or similar accepted payment method, in an anonymous, on-site, and unobtrusive process. Recently, on vacation, I encountered a business that claimed, "not to accept cash payments". Upon hearing this, I started to explain the info detailed above to our waitress, regarding "Legal Tender." But, before I said more than, "Actually, you must...", she explained that I could pay her with cash, with either the exact amount or over, (depending on the denomination of the currency I had on me). She would then take my currency, (and provide me a receipt for said, if I wished), and then "deposit" it into an ATM like kiosk near the restaurant's entrance, which would provide her with a "card" with a magnetic strip "loaded" with the exact amount of our bill, and said kiosk would also provide any "change" needed in currency form. She would then "pay" my bill with said "card" and return any "change" back to me. (She could be "tipped" via this method as well, or I could simply provide her a "cash" tip.) In this instance, had she simply not informed me of the "no cash" policy, I would have never known.

It was reported yesterday that the Secret Service had also found, on two separate occasions over the last few months, marihuana in the White House, (not in "tour" accessible locations). Each of the two reported times, the amount of pot was less than one gram. Although pot is still illegal under Federal Law, and despite pot being a "prohibited substance" in the White House, the Secret Service stated no investigations were ever begun, regarding "who's pot it was" and/or "who brought it into the White House", because the amount of pot found was less than required for a Federal Drug conviction. What else will turn up in the WH? Hope it's not a dead hooker!

Great poll post Sparquelito! I am a Gibson Speed Knob fan (as on my Explorer), despite having Vintage Knobs on my SG, Strat Style on my G&L, and Tele Style on my Bass. Does anyone else notice how Speed Knobs allow you to make far more/greater "adjustments" with far less hand/finger movement than other styles?? (obviously due to the larger circumference of the speed knob at the top) I tend to use the top edge of speed knobs with the side of my right hand ring finger, (not sure why, but I do), and a little movement (up or down) goes a long way. Trads and Strat Styles seem to be less efficient for me. Knob locations and configurations play a big role in the ergonomics of different guitars, thus making certain knob styles more/less efficient depending on said.

1. Never met a coke user that ever let their "bag" out of their sight, let alone "leave" it anywhere. 2. Coke users somehow seem to become "accountants", always knowing exactly how much they have left and where it is. 3. Never knew a coke user who stopped "partying" until the bag was empty. (and then they licked it clean!) 4. If cops come to your house, maybe to break up a loud party, and find a bag of "coke", it is assumed to be the home owners dope, unless someone else claims it. (the same applies to your car.) Since the White House is "the Peoples House", are we all guilty of possession now?

First, thank you for your thoughtful reply. (and thanks to everyone else who has taken the time to reply with so much useful insight and information). Secondly, I learned long ago that there is ALWAYS a "unicorn" in nearly every "brand/makers" product list. (an item that far outshines it's perceived/expected potential, either due to dumb luck, a confluence of events, or what ever) Some times seemingly "cheap" instruments sound/play phenomenally, and conversely, sometimes expensive instruments sound/play horribly. (Never judge a book by it's cover!) I remember making an offhand, ignorant, and "Gibson Elitist" comment about a friend of a friend's G&L Legacy (strat), implying that he "must not be able to afford a real strat or a LP." Boy did I get an earful, and deservedly so. (that G&L sounded/played so well that I ended up buying it when the owner chose to pare down his collection.) Third, I am a Marshall guy (primarily), so I find it easy to test out any guitar purchase on/thru gear like mine. Tone is subjective, but the tone produced by a "new" guitar at the store better match what your personal "rig" makes.

Funny you mentioned the "Inspired by Gibson" Epi 335. THIS is the guitar featured in the article I referred to in my original post, but I failed to mention it because I was ignorant about it being "different" than an Epi 335. I HAD heard of the "Pro" Epi 335, and that originally was going to be the Epi I wanted to compare to the Gibby. Sadly, I am still looking for a store nearby (with-in an hour of me), that has one "in stock" for me to play/try. You just outlined, with far better clarity, why I wanted to look into the Epi 335 Inspired by Gibson. Thanks again!!

Since the DD-5 is MIDI compatible, I think it will serve as a MIDI assignable "strike pad", (which I can use drum sticks on, vs. my Alesis SR-16 which only has "finger pads"), allowing me to lay individual percussion pieces onto individual tracks with a more natural feel. The SR-16 tends to sound stiff and robotic, even after manipulating the strike/attack variations. (Every 8 bar loop, for example, will always sound exactly the same.) The SR-16 will serve as a great percussion starting point, and then the DD-5 will be used to re-lay any or all pieces of percussion in order to create a more natural feel. And yes, I have already ecstatically jabbed the pads and shook my bum!😁

An old friend stopped by this evening, and he came bearing gifts. He was at a thrift store and found this fully functional 1988 Yamaha DD-5. He said that the moment he saw it, he was reminded of the 1988 Yamaha DX-100 that I have. He dropped $20 on it, and gave it to me. I love it!