RaSTuS

Mat, if you use the method I mentioned the radius will be spot on when you're finished, you're using the frets to judge the height of each string. If you look at it now it has nothing like the radius of the fretboard translated to the saddles.

If you use the method I described above you'll get a low action, about as low as you can get it, without getting into neck adjustment and fret levelling etc, which is.a far more advanced job. Best off doing each string in turn, starting with the low E (the thickest string) and working your way through all of them in turn, and finishing on the top E (thinnest).

That A and D saddle are far too high, the D in particular. To adjust the height on them you use the two allen screws either side of each string (there should have been a small allen key that came with the guitar), turn CCW to go down and CW to go up. What I do to adjust the height is adjust them down until the string just starts to buzz on the frets at normal picking force, then raise it until there's only the slightest hint of buzz when picking very hard, a bit harder than the hardest you would normally play. - Before adjusting a saddle, make sure the corresponding string has been slackened, then re-tune and test, do this as many times as necessary until the proper height is achieved. - You have to turn one screw each side of the string you're working on about half a turn at a time, then do the same for the screw on the other side of the string, it's important to try and keep the saddle reasonably level side to side (so that it's not tilting over), when you've finished adjusting a string you want the saddle to be fairly level (side to side, not back to front). - Do each string in turn, starting at the low E (thickest) and working up to the high E (thinnest), it's no use just doing one or two, you want them all adjusted so they are just starting to buzz under heavy picking. I'm terrible at describing things, so if any of the above makes no sense don't be afraid to ask for clarification.

^^^^^^^^ I love that room Brian, and it's contents too of course, just awesome.

Fixed mate. Welcome to the forums.

Du-oh, dumbarse me. Though the mention of the tune-o-matic is confusing, hopefully the OP will post some pics, which will clear things up.

Welcome to the forums, great bunch around here, I hope you like the place. When you say the lower E is sitting low, do you mean the thin or thick E, because lower means different things to different people. It'd be strange if the thicker E is low and the D is high as they're both on the bass side of the bridge, main thing I can think of off hand is that the D string isn't sitting in it's groove on the saddle properly, that may be worth checking. If possible could you post some pics of the bridge area. Info on how to post pics, as well as most guitar repair/modification/maintenance advice can be found in the DIY thread pinned to the top of the Epi Lounge, thanks to animalfarm who compiled and maintains it. DIY Thread

This thread has a beard, it's nearly 4 years old, and the OP hasn't posted at all in almost 18 months.

+1 And doing a great job of it Rob, thanks so much for your efforts.

G'day Fatty, welcome to the forums. Pickups, my preference would be HBs in the bridge and middle and a P-90 in the neck. I'm reasonably sure that the rotary will fit, but not absolutely certain. The B700 would be best, it's to do with the metals and the way they're cast, I can't remember the details, but the original is made better. I would go for a Wilkinson roller bridge, they're built like a tank and are very well priced, I'd also get a Tusq XL nut, the less resistance the strings have the better they'll hold tune. Wilkinson Roller Bridge Thread

G'day Rick, welcome here, there's a fantastic bunch around here, I hope you like the joint. Info on how to post pics is near the start of the DIY thread pinned to the top of the Epi Lounge, it was compiled and is maintained by member animalfarm, good 'ol egg he is. My link

Great news, let's hope it continues on that path, it'd be wonderful to have our Sat mornings with JMac back in the Lounge, all the best with it mate.

Good to see you around Jerry, I hope the problem with your hand is on the improve.

Info on how to post pics is at the top of animalfarm's excellent DIY thread pinned to the top of the Epi Lounge section of the forum. BTW: just about anything guitar related is also in that thread, well worth a look when you have some spare time. DIY Thread

There is also a much cheaper solution than usual changing pickups too that's worth exploring, it involves using a cap inline on the pickup's hot lead, it can brighten a pickup up considerably, and only costs a few bucks to try out. Taming Muddy Sounding Pickups

The amp is a Vox headphone amp.

First thing I'd try is put a new battery in your amp, the current one might just be running out, it's cheap to try and you don't have to leave your house. If it's still playing up after that then try and find another amp to test it on.

That sounds more like an amp problem than a guitar problem. Usually a pickup either works or it doesn't, it won't change sounds over time, it seems to me like the guitar is working fine.

What I meant was if the guitar still makes a noise when the switch is used in both the up and down positions, if it does, then both pickups in the guitar are working properly and the guitar is ok.

Hi Santanu, welcome to the forums, there's a great bunch around here, I hope you like the place. I doubt very much it's the guitar, try turning all the controls up to full as Damian mentioned, then put the 3-way switch in the up position, does it still work, if so, then flip it to the down position, if it still works, then both pickups in your guitar are still working properly and the guitar is probably ok, the problem is more than likely the headphone amp. BTW: where are you located ???

Hi and welcome to the forums, I hope you like the place. Info on how to post pictures is at the top of the DIY thread pinned to the top of the Epi Lounge. DIY Thread