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pohatu771

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Everything posted by pohatu771

  1. It's an LG-0. The serial number suggests 1960, and the features support that. $75 list price at the time.
  2. Between 1988 and about 2004, all Epiphone guitars that were copies of Gibson models had truss rod covers with "Gibson" on them. The Epiphone-original models, like the Sheraton and Casino, did not.
  3. There are three primary differences that actually impact me when playing it: 1. Neck shape. My Peerless has a fairly thin, flat, D-shaped neck that I loved for a long time. Last year I got the USA Collection Texan and a vintage Cortez, both with 60s C-shaped necks, and that is now my preference. The USA Collection Casino neck is almost identical to my Cortez. I believe the new Worn Casino has a C neck, but otherwise the recent Chinese examples of the standard version that I've played are the same D neck. 2. Pickups. I also loved the sound of the stock P-90s in the Peerless, but I never had the tone knobs at more than 8 (including since replacing all the pots last year). The Gibson USA P-90s are a bit more mellow and smoother. You can obviously replace pickups. 3. Finish. It just feels different. I feel like I have a better handle on the necks of my nitrocellulose-finished guitars than my poly-finished guitars. Fortunately, if someone wants a Casino, there are four different options and all are strong options (there are also several great ES-335 options, they just have different brand names). You can get a great traditional take on it for $700, or a fun modern-ish approach with the worn version (maybe Epiphone's best value at $450), while also having access to this classic in a smaller format with the $500 Casino Coupe. But if you really love the Casino, like I do, or you are just used to buying more expensive guitars, the USA Collection model fills that niche. Yeah, a Gibson fan could buy an ES-330, but the Casino has earned its spot as the better-known guitar between the two, and it's nice to have a high-end option. I've been trying to address some misinformation lately about Epiphone being Gibson's "budget brand" even back in the 60s, and not only were the ES-330TDC and E230TD Casino both $310 in the 1965 price list, that works out to $2688 today, adjusted for inflation. The case that came with my USA Collection Casino is worth the extra $11.
  4. I'm not sure what you mean by "Gibson version," but it's certainly an authentic Epiphone. I've never seen a counterfeit Explorer that isn't an obvious modification of some other (cheaper) guitar. Korina is another name for African Limba, which this guitar is definitely not. The original Gibson versions were, but modern Gibson versions (aside from the new, ultra-limtied Custom Shop versions) are just mahogany, and Epiphone arewhatever Asian-native "mahogany" (such as red cedar) is used at the time, with an amber finish.
  5. After 15 years with a Korean Casino, I'm now four months in with the USA model. This is pretty much my perfect guitar. I'd like a traditional ES-335, but I have the Emily Wolfe Sheraton Stealth for something that combines classic design elements to make something that looks modern.
  6. From this single small photo, I can tell it's a 1950 or later ES-125. As you found, a FON beginning with a Y is from 1953. The formula for the plastic parts changed throughout the 50s and some were prone to shrinking or breaking down. In your position, I probably would have removed the tuners and got some modern, pre-aged reproductions. The market has been crazy this year. A year ago, I would say it's worth $1500-2000, depending on condition. People are asking a lot more than that now, but not getting it. Sale prices, excluding really pristine examples, are sitting closer to $2000 today.
  7. I bought one in the spring. It's actually marketed as the Epiphone Century 1966 case. It's not exactly the same fit on the inside, but the foam will re-form to the Casino (or Sheraton, in my case) after a little while. The model number is 940-66CEN1. At the time, I got it from Sam Ash, but it's now out of stock. I'm not sure if anyone else still has them, but you might have luck.
  8. This is an Epiphone FT-120, made by the Matsumoku factory in Matsumoto, Japan. Epiphone production ended in Kalamazoo in August 1970 and started in Japan in October of the same year. This was one of the early models, available between 1971 (since it took a few months to produce the first batches and distribute them) and 1979. This is a later example, since that style label was used starting in 1976 and was replaced in 1980. The serial numbers are useless for dating Epiphone guitars from this era.
  9. They made a few Masterbilt models for a few years that were very recently discontinued. It's a niche and they will probably do it again, but not keep them in the catalog at all times.
  10. The FT-150 "Bard" was made between 1972 and 1979. Kalmazoo-style labels were used from 1970 to 1975; these brown versions are a transitional version used late in that run. I'd estimate yours to be 1974-1975. Serial numbers are meaningless for that era.
  11. The most obvious difference from my 2001 Peerless-made Korean Casino is the neck shape. The Korean model, and even recent Chinese versions I've played, have a thin neck with noticeable flat back. The USA model has a round 60s neck very similar to my actual 1964 Epiphone Cortez. The pickups are also more mellow and clearer than the Korean pickups, which can be harsh sometimes. I've almost always had the tone knobs set at 8 on that one.
  12. They are Masterbilts except by name. They use the same spec woods and electronics, and even say "Masterbilt" (or a short code for it) on the shipping label if you get an original box. I suspect the branding was changed very late in development. The prototype J-200 that they sold through the Gibson Demo Shop (which Trogly then bought and re-sold for double the price) even says "Masterbilt J-200" on the label. Aside from the AJ-45ME, past Masterbilts have never been so closely based on Gibson models to get a direct comparison. I'm strongly considering the Hummingbird 12-string, if I can find one in person to try. I've been after the Roy Orbison signature Bard they made a while ago, but I missed a couple a few months ago and the one currently for sale is listed for twice the price.
  13. I'm very curious about the thought process in using different covers on different finishes. My local store initially got one of each finish, with the Royal Tan pre-sold, then a week later got a second Royal Tan that had been ordered for me. None since then. They have a waiting list of a dozen people, and almost everyone wants the Royal Tan. I'm curious if it's due to the finish itself or because of the pickups. Although in my case, it was both.
  14. I'm 50:50 on that. The most famous Casinos have an hourglass headstock, but I like that this one doesn't. It's only the second time (the first being the 2011 50th Anniversary model, which has many cosmetic differences) they've done that since 1963.
  15. People are acting like Epiphone announced this as a 1963 reissue and then got the specs wrong, but they never did. This is simply a modern Casino (therefore using modern Gibson specs) that takes some design cues from the 1962/1963 models in the headstock shape and pickup covers.
  16. I've had mine for about three months now. I spent a year questioning how it could be better than my Peerless-made 2001 model, but it was obvious from the second I picked it up (before buying it). The Gibson USA P-90s are smoother and more mellow than the Korean P-90s, but with more clarity. The neck is a round 60s profile that I've come to expect from my 60s-inspired Wilshire and actual 1964 Cortez, rather than the flat profile on my original and still on recent Qing Dao-made models. I haven't been able to play it as much as I should, but I really enjoy it. It is absolutely a better instrument.
  17. I don't have any official source to reference at the moment. The serial number change coincides with ownership change, so there are early 2018 models that are still using the old system. I do have some corrections: The first batch of the day is actually 0, not 1. Since Gibson Acoustic doesn't use the 9-digit system, Gibson USA now starts at 001 instead of at 500. Gibson Custom also doesn't use this system, and certain Gibson USA models don't either - 1994 100th anniversary guitars all starts with 94, and certain Les Paul Classics use a 50s-inspired serial number format, beginning with the last digit of the year of production. There are probaby others.
  18. Gibson's own website is outdated. As they state, starting in 1977, the serial number format became YDDDYPPP - Y being the third and fourth digit of the year, D being the day of the year, and P being the daily production number. At the time, 000-499 were Kalamazoo and 500-999 were Nashville. For a few years after Kalamazoo closed, no guitars were below 500. In 1993, Gibson Acoustic got 000-299 and Nashville stuck to 500+. Eventually, it reached a point that they could produce more than 500 guitars per day, so they started including a batch number for Gibson USA (not Gibson Acoustic) in 2005, YDDDYBPPP. A guitar numbered 236551501 was made December 31, 2005, Batch 1, number 501. In 2014, they switched to a less-specific format, YYRRRRRRR. Y is the last two digits of the year, and the rest is a sequential number for the entire year. 150000001 would be the first guitar made in 2015. Again, this was only for Gibson USA. They also started using "2015 Model" stamps, indicating a model fits the 2015 specs, but it might have actually been made in late 2014. In 2018, they reverted to the 2005 system. This is still missing from the site. A guitar beginning with 22 means it was made since 2020, between July 19 and October 27, the 200th to 299th day of the year. Likewise, a serial number starting with 23 was made after October 28. You need the first five digits to determine the year and day.
  19. Collectors and guitar historians. Since the ledger including 1959 is famously missing, Gibson can't prove that Wilshires were shipped that year. The only proof would be an actual guitar that indicates 1959 according to the 1953-early 1961 Kalamazoo serial number format. They didn't even publish an Epiphone catalog until 1961, and that includes a round-body Wilshire with cream pickups. I don't know if the prototype included them or if it was just changed for better contrast in the black and white photo. Even a 1960 is harder to find than a 1961 or 1962. I'd love to be wrong. If a square-bodied Wilshire existed at the same time as the Crestwood, it would have to have different features, but the evolution of the Coronet and Crestwood Custom seems unlikely. A P-90-equipped Wilshire would fall between the Crestwood (with Tone Spectrum) and Crestwood Custom (with mini hum buckers) in features, which doesn't make any sense.
  20. Epiphone also claims the USA Collection Texan is the first American-made Texan since 1970, so they aren't the best at their own history. Gibson Acoustic made Texans in 1994 and 2005. If the Wilshire was made in 1959, one should have turned up by now. I want one to turn up just to see if the specs are as people claim, but no one has found one.
  21. What is your indoor humidity? Wood cracks when it's dry. If it wasn't cracked when it left the factory, or later when you received it, you can't really blame workmanship. They may cover it under warranty. If not, it's a relatively easy repair, though time-consuming and not inexpensive.
  22. People (including Epiphonewiki) keep saying that the Wilshire was introduced in 1959 with a square body and P-90s, but no one has ever been able to prove it with an actual guitar. The first Epiphone solid body electric guitars were the Coronet and Crestwood. They had 1 3/4" thick bodies with square edges and pickguards only over the treble side of the guitar. The Coronet had a wraparound tailpiece (non-intonated) and a single Tone Spectrum pickup. The Crestwood had an ABR-1 bridge and stop bar tailpiece and two Tone Spectrum pickups. The Crestwood Custom was added soon after, with a full-face symmetrical pickguard mounted with two mini humbuckers. It kept the thick, square body and dot inlays. In 1960, they switched to the rounded, thinner 1 3/8" bodies as seen above. The pickguards for each model were essentially the same, symmetrical and covering both halves of the guitar. With old Epiphone factory parts running out, the Coronet got a dogear P-90. The Crestwood Custom used mounting rings for the mini humbuckers and got oval inlays. Earlier models had a standard solid pickguard; the transparent version with racing strip was added the following year. Diminishing Epiphone parts also meant the Coronet switched to a screen printed Epiphone logo, while the higher-end models kept the brass badge for another year or two. The standard Crestwood was discontinued. The Wilshire was introduced in its place, with a pair of soapbar P-90s and the same pickguard shape as the other two, keeping the dot inlays from the Crestwood. The prototype had cream covers on the pickups, as seen in the 1961 Epiphone catalog, but it could have simply been to provide contrast in the black and white image. The current import Wilshire is an mix of 1961 and 1962 specs. The brass badge was used until 1961, but the selector switch location changed in 1962. It's entirely possible that a vintage transitional model exists just like this.
  23. You want to ask a local dealer about a Made 2 Measure order. I don't know if they will do an Epiphone-branded guitar, but I'm curious.
  24. I'm working on a more complete resource like Epiphonewiki. Aside from its gaps, it also stops at 2016. Are you looking for a specific model? I may already have it written down.
  25. Unless you (or a former owner) replaced the pots, you need to get metric knobs. Gibson are not. Metric knobs and pots are "fine spline" with 24 splines. You might see them marketed a "Alpha" knobs. These are on most Asian import guitars. Standard knobs and pots are "course spline" with 18 splines. The knobs might be marketed as "CTS." These are on most American guitars. You can salvage the knobs you have if you happen to have an old "Alpha" pot that doesn't work. You just heat up the shaft with a soldering iron and press the knob on; it will melt it to fit.
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