Dave F

I've never had the opportunity to play a Martin Pre War Herringbone, but I have had a few guitars that were booming and like you "I found the guitars not useful for my playing."

I'd love to hear one of these. They have the long scale with a red spruce aged top. I bet it's a monster. Gibson | 1936 Advanced Jumbo Vintage Sunburst

If getting a strong bass out of a Gibson acoustic was my goal, I would get an Advanced Jumbo (AJ), put some 13's on it, drop it a half or whole step and make sure the setup is high enough to not buzz.

Maybe a double neck with a bass and tenor

They did make the F model a while back.

I had a Martin CS D41 15 with the aged top. Sounded very nice.

This may qualify. Super400 AB Body

My experience with walnut was I thought it was a louder brighter version on rosewood. The issue I have is it exposes my flaws more than rosewood.

I've setup some very nice built Alvarez and Ibanez guitars for beginners. I usually setup a low action with silk and steel strings that really helps a beginner. I keep an Alvarez parlor guitar in my office at work. I agree that Yamaha builds some nice guitars too. If possible, have someone who really knows guitar check out the guitar. I've helped quite a few friends. Personally, I would not spend a lot until I know I'm going to stick with it.

The Nick Lucas uses the L00 body shape. It’s just thicker.

Ebay

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Frets/FBoardDivot/fboardivot.html Guitar was played hard. Surprisingly it has a perfect neck angle and the frets, although grooved fairly deep, had enough height to be dressed.

Honest wear, but not by me. I was playing guitars with a friend yesterday and he said my playing style and the way I place my hands makes it look like it was my playing that did the wear.

Is there a reason you didn’t go with a stock adjustable Bridge? The original rosewood adjustable saddle was usable, and I tried it. That saddle and the bridge slot had distorted into a slight banana shape and one of the stud holes was off center to the slot. That's why I went the insert route. Did you replace the Nut? No, the nut is original and not altered. What did you fill the divots with? I used the Frank Ford method. I've had vintage guitar frets filled in by a luthier in the past but did not like the dark spots it left. I read this a while back and decided I would try it or have my luthier try it the next time I needed it. I made a short 12" radius sanding block so I would not have to remove the frets. It worked really well, and I like the way it looks. FRETS.COM Nice job on the Headstock.. Thanks. I didn't bother smoothing the surface and filling in any dings or voids so it would not look too pretty.

The rosewood insert can be pulled out and the adjustable saddle and hardware can be put in with no mods.

I bought this guitar last summer at a price where I could play around with it. I set it up with the original rosewood adjustable bridge and left it that way for a few months to see how I liked it. It was different but it did nothing for me, so I decided to convert it to a bone saddle. Here's some before and after my updates with me trying not to make it look too pretty. I secured 5 cracks on the top, replaced the pickup with an Anthem SL and plugged up the old jack hole, painted and decal the head stock, repaired the divots on the first four frets, dressed all the frets, made a rosewood insert with a bone saddle and filled in the gaps of the lifting bridge. It plays and sounds great plugged in or not. The rosewood insert is just a snug fit, did not glue it in.

They offered a similar model about 7-8 years ago with the main difference being the neck shape, board radius and nut width. I would have gotten one, but a couple things stopped me. I did not want the V profile , 16" fret radius, and the Rosewood Burst. Additionally, I have not cared for RW on small bodies except for the Nick Lucas. I wound up placing a Made 2 Measure order with the body from the 12 Fret L00 and the Neck from a 12-fret J45 with the slim taper. Additionally, I ordered a dark burst and an aged top. I left all other details to Gibson. They made me a beautiful, easy playing and great sounding guitar. I couldn't be more pleased. The top grain is great looking. They did the headstock inlay, bound fret board and herringbone trim on their own. Neck - J-15 (gibson.com) Body - Gibson Acoustic Instruments

IMHO there's nothing wrong with doing that but you may not wind up with what you're going for. No guarantee that altering the guitar will produce a vintage sound. I would think the back would need to be removed, pry off the old bracing then make new bracing and glue the bracings and reglue the back on. Depending on the year, the back center strip may need to be added. The trim may be difference.

They did away with that forum a few years ago.

I set this room up when I had 50 guitars. When covid hit, I started thinking about my mortality and leaving all those guitars to my family who have no interest in them and decided to downsize. My goal was to get down to six but I slowed down when I got to 20. It was difficult to let go of thirty of them. I've crept back up to 27 and I'm thinking about another reduction.

2023

I'm very happy with this SJ200. I also appreciate the subtle references to Elvis without being too gaudy. TRC and label.

I've had two Walnut B&S guitars. An AJ and a Jackson Browne. The AJ Gold was unbelievably loud and the vibrations from it would rattle through your body. Everyone who played it had a big smile on their face when they felt the music go through their body. The Jackson Browne was advertised as the Grand Piano of Guitars and lived up to it's name.

I had a Dwight Yoakam Honky Tonk Deuce that had the rolled fretboard. Most comfortable guitar I've ever played.

I'm thinking a 67 LG0 Screw down pickguard, adjustable saddle, s/n starting with a 0