Riffster Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 Alright, I do not want to do the tooth pick and glue approach to make up for the screw size difference and the thread difference from the stock screw to the Schaller so here is what I have done so far. Drilled nuts to accomodate the stock Gibson screw. Filed screws head to fit nuts Now the screws sit tight but lower in the nuts without a chance to use a spacer since the lock has to do its job so I need to deepen the screw hole in the guitar by about 1/4" to make up for this difference. I am planning to tape the drill bit to avoid ruining the screw thread in the wood. Any advice before I do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AXE® Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 Keep the bit size 1/16" smaller than the screw. And don't go quite as deep as the screw is long. And...... Shove a toothpick in there anyway. That sounds funny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riffster Posted May 30, 2010 Author Share Posted May 30, 2010 Yea, I will treat the extra 1/4" I need to drill as a pilot hole meaning not as long and a little more narrow than the screw just not to split the wood fibers. Where would the tooth pick fit though? I am using the original screws not a lot of room in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FennRx Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 i used a toothpick and had them installed in less than 5 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AXE® Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 That screw will go in just fine with the toothpick in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riffster Posted May 30, 2010 Author Share Posted May 30, 2010 They are in, I drilled the hole just a bit deeper and that was it, I simply screwed the stock screw back in. The locks are nice, but damn there is just something about messing with an expensive guitar that makes me nervous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riffster Posted May 30, 2010 Author Share Posted May 30, 2010 i used a toothpick and had them installed in less than 5 minutes. If you used the screw that came with the Schallers yea that would work. Looks like I made it harder than it needed to be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dleth Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Stiffhand, I know what you mean by messing with an expensive guitar. Just went through the same thing. I also wanted to keep the original larger bore screw and had to modify the strap lock. I put it in a drill press and bored the whole just large enough for the screw to pass through comfortably. I then found that the screw head was too large to countersink in the anchor button so drilled that out to accomodate as well. The original screw went in nice and tight without needing to mess with the guitar at all. The 1960 VOS R0 is the only guitar I have with one larger screw in the heel position. Very worthwhile excercise though. A couple of weeks ago I had 2 Les Pauls let go of the strap in the same evening. Now they all have straplocks. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riffster Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 Yea, I too wanted to keep the stock screws. I am happy with the result, when I drilled the extra 1/4" in the guitar I simply inserted the drill bit without rotation and then slowly drilled. Now I have more guitars to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laaz Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Much easier to go to HD or Lowes and get the correct length #10 wood screws & turn the heads down on them. Now if you want to return it back to original you will need to find the correct Gibson screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riffster Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 I knew that, the screws will still work with the stock nuts though even if the head is rounded off. The reason I used the stock screws is the angle in the thread, it is very non standard kind of like a drywall screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laaz Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 The threads are the same as a #10 wood screw. I changed all of mine out that way and put the original screws / buttons away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riffster Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 My Explorer is next so I will be looking up those screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laaz Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Neck is #8 and base is #10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryUK Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 I wouldn't use a screw with a shank on it you want grip all the way. I hope you call it shank over there? The bit without thread if you don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riffster Posted June 4, 2010 Author Share Posted June 4, 2010 The threads are the same as a #10 wood screw. I changed all of mine out that way and put the original screws / buttons away. I checked the screws, they do have the same thread angle as the USA line but not the Historics just for clarification in case somebody reads this. If you use the #10 screw on a Historic you will be cross-threading, it may not be a big deal to some but others may care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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