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JERRYMAC or anyone- sherrry roller bridges????


sdgails

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If I understand what you are asking, I think the answer is no, i.e. roller saddles will not retrofit to a standard TOM bridge. From what I can see the saddles on the roller bridges are not something that can be easily removed/replaced either.

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Hello Sd.

 

Got back in town this morning and happened to read your post. When I first read it I thought (like RotcanX) that you were looking to modify a TOM bridge. Rotcan is probably right about it not working. However, after reading your reply to layboomo, it sound like you are now considering changing out the bridge. Mind you, I am going to tread lightly here as I have only started modding guitars recently and do not have the expertise of some of these guys.

 

I took some time today and looked at several dealers to see if I could help. Found out what you already know. Very few dealers post specs for their products. The closest I could find was at Stew-Mac. They do have a roller bridge with 74.17mm centers. The post threads are M8 x 1.25. However, the profile does have a flat bottom.

 

Two things have occured to me.

 

If you email or phone anyone else's sevice dept. they should be able to give you the spec's on their products. (If not, I don't think I would do business with them anyway.)

 

The other thought was: If you can find something close enough you may be able to solve your 72mm dilemma with a small file. Taking a mm off each hole may not be out of the question. Especially if it is a locking bridge.

 

Anyone with contradicting ideas is not going to hurt my feelings. The idea is to help Sd.

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THANKS Willy, the post thread/sleeve on the guitar is rather large, in fact, it is the same post thread/sleeve as the stop bar piece. Just wondering---what size would that be?Im not sure what M8 2.5 means. is 2.5 a radius? i think i can file the post space if i need to, i just have to make sure the post will fit the hole

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Not completely sure myself. What I do know is that the metrics (including the one that I recently bought) was a M8 x 1.25 thread and it was an exact replacement post on my epi. The American threads seem to be M4 x 7. Saved me from having to replace the bushings.

 

Go to stewmac.com, check out the bridges, while on any particular bridge page click on the specs tab. A picture is worth...you know.

 

Hope this helps?

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i have 2 supernovas, and the bridge thread size is way smaller. hmmmm---the sheraton is a 96, the string spacing is 50mm, post 72mm. i can rig the 72mm. I checked ebay and found one 50mm, 73mm, but im unsure of the post thread size. argggghhh lol

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THANKS Willy' date=' the post thread/sleeve on the guitar is rather large, in fact, it is the same post thread/sleeve as the stop bar piece. Just wondering---what size would that be?Im not sure what M8 2.5 means. is 2.5 a radius? i think i can file the post space if i need to, i just have to make sure the post will fit the hole[/quote']

 

 

The number naming the thread is the major diameter of the screw thread

in millimetres. 25.4 mm = 1 inch; 6.35mm = 1/4 inch

The thread angle is 60°. The pitch is the distance, in millimetres, that the screw will travel forward

or backward during one rotation. Standard pitch is a coarse pitch, so 1.25 would give you about 1.25

rotations of the screw thread.

--------------------------------------------------- clearance hole

Ie: ------- thread pitch----tapping drill-----close---med ---free

M8--------1.25-------------- 6.8--------------- 8.4-----9.0----10.0

 

I believe we discussed the metric bushings a while ago on the old forum with Smokestack and others.

 

To REMOVE the oem EPi bushings you would need a 6mm x 40mm long bolt for the t-o-m;

and a 8mm x 40mm long bolt for the bushings on the stop piece.

 

I have the GFS roller bridge and stop piece. Besides the wider spacing as mentioned

already, you would need a metric 12mm forestner bit for the bushings on both the roller bridge and stop piece.

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You might want to shoot Jay @ GFS an email and ask him ....he's a friendly guy who knows guitars. I'm sure there will be a little work involved in whatever retro-fit you choose unless you can find a direct drop in for the 72mm spacing but I couldn't find one.

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im looking for a Samick 72mm roller bridge' date=' any suggestions. i saw the wd site with the samick one, but im trying to get parts to install bigsby. is there anyway to get just roller saddles?? thanks[/quote']

 

I don't know of any roller saddles for the Samick bridges, but Graph Tech did make String Saver saddles (part # PS-8603-00) for the old Sherrys. I've used Graph Techs on a couple of my guitars with Bigsbys, and they work pretty good. I don't see the listed on the Graph Tech site anymore, but maybe you can find a set at a Graph Tech dealer.

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im going to try and find these graph tech saddles jerrymac, i found one site in the UK. Some shop in the states has to have one laying around. thanks for your help. By the way, do you prefer the roller bridge or graph tech saddles for the bigsby? i have a gretsch electromatic with bigsby, it has the standard bridge,and i dont really have any issues with tuning. I just want to make this sherry play like a dream!!!

 

thanks

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im going to try and find these graph tech saddles jerrymac' date=' i found one site in the UK. Some shop in the states has to have one laying around. thanks for your help. By the way, do you prefer the roller bridge or graph tech saddles for the bigsby? i have a gretsch electromatic with bigsby, it has the standard bridge,and i dont really have any issues with tuning. I just want to make this sherry play like a dream!!!

 

thanks[/quote']

 

Roller bridges are tricky, I've come across some inexpensive ones that really sucked up the tone. The Graphtech saddles are pretty good, solid transfer from the strings to the body and much smoother than metal saddles.

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Roller bridges are tricky' date=' I've come across some inexpensive ones that really sucked up the tone. The Graphtech saddles are pretty good, solid transfer from the strings to the body and much smoother than metal saddles.

[/quote']

 

Sucking up the tone is a concern, but if these things are supposed to work with a

Bigsby , you would expect that there would be less stress on the strings

when they are tuned (or detuned by the vibrato as the case may be).

 

I'm using one in my..um..LP*. What you say is true to some degree, but the 'angle of

attack' on the strings from the stoppiece/tp needs to be sharper to compensate

going around the rollers, so the fingerboard angle needs to be a bit greater.

The other aspect is that that the bushings and posts are oversize and need larger

holes on some models.

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Sucking up the tone is a concern' date=' but if these things are supposed to work with a

Bigsby , you would expect that there would be less stress on the strings

when they are tuned (or detuned by the vibrato as the case may be).

 

I'm using one in my..um..LP*. What you say is true to some degree, but the 'angle of

attack' on the strings from the stoppiece/tp needs to be sharper to compensate

going around the rollers, so the fingerboard angle needs to be a bit greater.

The other aspect is that that the bushings and posts are oversize and need larger

holes on some models. [/quote']

 

The roller bridges I'm talking about were on the DeArmond guitars. They were the standard Asian bridge but with rollers. They used them on the M-77t & T-400 models. The saddles are just not solid, and the tone is total mud (even with the twangy DeArmond single coils). Replace the bridge, the guitars come alive.

 

Schaller makes a roller bridge that's supposed to be excellent, I haven't had any first hand experience with them. Not cheap. One of guitars has the Wilkinson that GFS sells, works pretty good although it's a bit clumsy to adjust.

 

My favorite Bigsby bridge is the Gretsch space control bridge, but I hesitate to recommend it because it lacks the ability to adjust intonation.

 

The problem with the Samick bridge is the stud spacing, they're about 2mm closer than the standard bridges.

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Schaller makes a roller bridge that's supposed to be excellent' date=' I haven't had any first hand experience with them. Not cheap. One of guitars has the Wilkinson that GFS sells, works pretty good although it's a bit clumsy to adjust.

[/quote']

 

Thanks Jerry. That's the one I have and in the process of installing. It has elongated locking studs for initial

intonation and they do supply an allen key with it, so once the intonation is set, it should stay that way,

although as you mentioned, it's a bit clumsy adjusting. Stew-Mac sell the same one as well.

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