joshyguitar93 Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 harro i was wondering what the bridge height needs to be and whether both stands holding it up need to be the same height, hope this aint confusing so pls help! thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glenn1281733995 Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Link to epi manual. All the standard dimensions are in the manual. Look under *string height* http://www.epiphone.com/images/EpiOwnrsManul.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EpiGirl Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 harro i was wondering what the bridge height needs to be and whether both stands holding it up need to be the same height' date=' hope this aint confusing so pls help! thx[/quote'] It depends. The height id dependendt of your preferences and the thickness of your strings. You may adjust the action by lowering or raising the bridge. I myself like thin strings and low action. Just keep it high enough to get rid of any dead frets and/or fret buzz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yosoybay Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Honestly, Josh, while I have answered several of your recent questions (and don't mind continuing to do so), you could find the answers to many of them by a simple search on this site or on Google. That being said, this forum is a fantastic resource for all of us, and I'm sure people think the same thing when I ask a question that seems hard to me but simple to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L_Mo Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 I agree 100% with EpiGirl regarding bridge height - it's a lot due to preference. The simple answer is: set it however you like it and, no, the two sides don't have to be the same. If they are, it just means the thicker strings will be closer to the frets. Personally, I like lower action, so here's how I adjust the bridge after changing string sizes: First, bring the bridge down until the strings touch all the frets. Then I lift one side until it doesn't buzz at the 12th fret, and then I bring it up just a bit more (that's just preference). Then I repeat for the other side, and try to match the distance between the bottom of the string and the top of the frets. Since you're adjusting things and might not know, the stop bar should be all the way down. Mostly because the higher angle at the bridge is better, but also because it puts less torque stress on the bolts holding the stop bar down. I guess the latter isn't that big of an issue unless the bar is almost all the way up. Finally, don't forget to re-adjust the intonation of each string after messing with the bridge/stop bar positions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stan 58 Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 In my old age I've come to like a higher action for the following reasons, easyer to get my fingers into bends, a lot less string buzz, just to name a few. But to each his own. just have fun. Stan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RotcanX Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Standard action is specified as being 6/64" above the 12th fret on the low side and 4/64" over the 12th fret on the high side. Naturally you can set it higher than this if you prefer but anything lower than that may (not always) cause serious buzzes which will not be covered under the warranty. It is normal that the bridge ends up on a bit of a slant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostindesert Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 In my old age I've come to like a higher action for the following reasons' date=' easyer to get my fingers into bends, a lot less string buzz, just to name a few. But to each his own. just have fun. Stan.[/quote'] This oldie likes the same things, medium to high action, .010-.046s strings, big neck ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlagJones Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Given the lack of a ruler with 1/64 increments, are there any simple household workarounds that can be used? Like using a coin or anything? Or am I just gonna have to get off my *** and go to the store? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron G Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 the two sides don't have to be the same. If they are' date=' it just means the thicker strings will be closer to the frets[/quote'] I think the second statement may be incorrect. Wouldn't a level bridge mean the the string height, measured from the bottom, would be the same, except for the minor difference of the nut height? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostindesert Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Given the lack of a ruler with 1/64 increments' date=' are there any simple household workarounds that can be used? Like using a coin or anything? Or am I just gonna have to get off my *** and go to the store? [/quote'] You can use plectrums.......! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlagJones Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 You can use plectrums.......! Well... since I have no reference point. That doesn't help me much. Can you be more specific? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron G Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Given the lack of a ruler with 1/64 increments I got a neat little precision ruler for about 3 bucks in the Home Depot tool dept Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funkwire Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 If the strings aren't buzzing, and my fingers aren't bleeding...the string height is just fine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyelcrrt1281733995 Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 6/64=3/32 4/64=2/32=1/16 Most rulers have those...besides, its all about getting it close by spec and then final adjustment to personal preference - and, excuse me if I doubt, but I've never seen ANY measuring device with the legend "Adjust to this point for Gary". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyelcrrt1281733995 Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 I think the second statement may be incorrect. Wouldn't a level bridge mean the the string height' date=' measured from the bottom, would be the same, except for the minor difference of the nut height?[/quote'] I can't think of any physical reason you're wrong, Ron, but I do think the difference in string diameter and tension will make it FEEL like you have to move the high E more than the low E with a level bridge, but I've always been told that the bridge was set to different heights more because it could be lower than because it should be. The much wider string travel when plucked is the reason the low side can't go as low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricochet Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 6/64=3/32 4/64=2/32=1/16 We don't deal in those diabolic inches in my neck of the woods. How much or rather what colour is that in Dunlops picks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlagJones Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 6/64=3/324/64=2/32=1/16 Most rulers have those...besides' date=' its all about getting it close by spec and then final adjustment to personal preference - and, excuse me if I doubt, but I've never seen ANY measuring device with the legend "Adjust to this point for Gary". [/quote'] It was my understanding there would be no math. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron G Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Gary, I posted the correction for the sake of accuracy. Didn't want anybody to be confused. It appears that a common newbie misunderstanding is that setup is an exact science in regard to bridge height, pickup height, truss-rod, etc.. There's a lot of trial and error for each guitar/player. The ruler can at least be good for putting one's guitar back to where it was before user adjustments. In my case, checking my action against some "standards" confirmed that there was nothing radically wrong with mine but that's all. The rest is subjective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biff Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 We don't deal in those diabolic inches in my neck of the woods. How much or rather what colour is that in Dunlops picks? 4 / 64 * 2.54 = 1.6 (mm) 6 / 64 * 2.54 = 2.4 (mm) .. maybe.. Dunlop picks are metric aren't they, so the rest is left for you to work out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostindesert Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Well... since I have no reference point. That doesn't help me much. Can you be more specific? Thanks. I use Dunlop pics. 1mm. They come in more sizes(thickness). 1/64 = 0.4mm if you need a action of 5/64 go for 2 pics of 1mm (example). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyelcrrt1281733995 Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 It was my understanding there would be no math. Mmmmm.... 4/4 time 1/8th note beat measure frequency pitch 10-46 yada yada yada Somebody lied to you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 If the strings aren't buzzing' date=' and my fingers aren't bleeding...the string height is just fine![/quote'] LOL! I almost fell off my chair on that one. Yep, just play with the bridge height, touch up the tuning and quit when it feels good and doesn't buzz. Check the fingers for red stuff after an hour or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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