android13 Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 I think my guitar has some fret buzz, and also since I want to be able to lower my action a bit more, I was wondering whether I should adjust the truss rod. If anybody could teach me how, I would be happy. I know it's risky and all, but I can't rely on a store to do it for me all the time; it's my guitar, so I should learn how to take care of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneBoedker Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 Where is it buzzing? If it's... ...at the highest frets, your truss rod is too loose. ...at the lower frets, your truss rod is too tight. I don't really know about the details, but I'm sure, someone else here will be able to help you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 Adjusting the truss rod is only risky when done without knowledge of how it works. Only adjust it with the strings slackened, never turn it more than 1/8" turn at a time, then tune back up and check the relief. Relief is checked by fretting at the 15th fret and then pressing the string at the 8th fret to view clearance. There should be about .010 or less clearance at the 8th fret while fretting at the 15th. If there is no clearance at the 8th, you may have backbow. Loosen the truss rod a little at the time until you get clearance. If you have too much clearance, tighten 1/8 turn at a time (with the strings slack) until you get 0.0 - .010 clearance. Never overstress the nut or allen head on the truss rod. If you break it off, you have created a VERY expensive repair job. Google truss rod adjustment for pictorials and a better explanation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strumbone Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 Dave is spot on here. I use an 18" straightedge that I lay right across the middle of the fretboard, and measure the relief with feeler guages. It can also be checked with a capo and a playing card for clearance. Some folks like their neck absolutely straight, but this increases the potential for buzz, unless the neck and frets were very accurately made. I prefer about .010", and I can visually detect a slight bow when boresighting down from the nut end. Remember what the truss rod is for...to counteract the tendancy of the string tension to bow the neck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
android13 Posted March 7, 2010 Author Share Posted March 7, 2010 Thank you very much for this info! out of curiosity, is it similar to how you can tighten/loosen a bow (as in violin, cello, etc)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordy01 Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 I'm going to tell you the same thing I've told many members here. There is a book called: Guitar Player Guide to Repair; by Dan Erliwine. It can be purchased at stewmac.com This book is an excellent manual for guitar set up, and repair. I highly recommend reading this book before you attempt setting up your guitar. A good set up is not difficult if you have the proper tools, and the know how. But you can make your guitar unplayable in a hurry if you don't know what you're doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peeper Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 Thank you very much for this info! out of curiosity' date=' is it similar to how you can tighten/loosen a bow (as in violin, cello, etc)?[/quote'] Yes, like that but on a larger scale with much higher forces involved. So you know what happens when you over tighten the bow right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StewartB Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 I'm going to tell you the same thing I've told many members here.There is a book called: Guitar Player Guide to Repair; by Dan Erliwine. It can be purchased at stewmac.com I bought a copy about 6 months ago. I reckon it has saved me about $400 in luthier fees so far - great book and easy to follow - buy it! This has not been a paid announcement on behalf of Stewmac- I will however accept money if they throw it at me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
android13 Posted March 7, 2010 Author Share Posted March 7, 2010 Yes' date=' like that but on a larger scale with much higher forces involved. So you know what happens when you over tighten the bow right?[/quote'] oh yes…oh yes… When I was in a concert, and I was playing the last note of a piece, in front of the whole audience, my bow just went *snap* in half. It was painful. Also, it was about a $1500 bow. Damn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 oh yes…oh yes… When I was in a concert' date=' and I was playing the last note of a piece, in front of the whole audience, my bow just went *snap* in half. It was painful. Also, it was about a $1500 bow. Damn.[/quote'] WOW! if the Bow was $1500, I can't even imagine what the Violin cost was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peeper Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Oh yea guitars are cheap, you can get ten high end Epiphones brand new for what my viola costs. And it's not even a high end instrument, think G-400 level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
android13 Posted March 10, 2010 Author Share Posted March 10, 2010 WOW!if the Bow was $1500' date=' I can't even imagine what the Violin cost was. [/quote'] Cello. Even more expensive. I could buy 5 or more Gibson Reissue SG's with my cello alone (I think…) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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