Switchcraft switch not switching?

[matiac]

The aftermarket Switchcraft selector switch isn't switching! The neck position requires fiddling, pickup sounds distant, muffled, not very loud. Dirt? Dust? Bridge position is fine, I'm sincerely hoping it's not a cold joint, cuz me 'n solder guns don't exactly get along. I'm thinking perhaps a generous (sp?) blast of good old canned air might solve the problem. I'm wondering if any of the resident Guitar Techs here at the Epiphone Forums would possibly confirm that this MAY remedy the ailing switch on my most beloved, and trusted Blue Bomber? PLEASE tell me I don't need to break out the old iron, cuz I'll make a cold joint frozen...in short I can't solder to save my life. Anyone?

 

 

[lpfan]

I would replace the switch. Soldering isn't hard, you just need to make sure the surface is clean and hot enough to melt the solder onto it. I also recommend using the little wire jumper cables with the roach clips on the ends. You can use them as a heat sink so that the electrical components don't get too hot. Good luck.

[Guest]

Switchcraft switch not switching?

 

does that mean that tiny lever on your guitar is now a "craft"............SHRIEK......get it changed fella....

[matiac]

Yup, by golly, the Switchcraft switch aint switchin'...ain't that a b1tch? Guess I'm-a-gonna grab another one, and have my most beloved, and trusted Techy whip out a fully charged icing anointment utensil...er, soldering iron, and pop that puppy right the heck on! Although it dismays me I'll have to wait 'til he gets back from his vacation (hey, even TECHIES need a break every NOW and then), cuz I AINT doin' it myself. As earlier stated, I can't solder to save my life. Nope. Can't do it. Tried once on one of my C.B. Radios, and damaged it worse than it was. Maybe I'll have him "once-over" the neck for possible bowing, although it ain't buzzing anywhere. Aint had that done since I bought the guitar about 5 years ago.

[carverman]

The aftermarket Switchcraft selector switch isn't switching!

 

Well first of all..lets not give the genuine Switchcraft parts a bad name by including them along with all the

aftermarket asian junk out there. Switchcraft has been around for years and used by a Gibson and other

famous guitar makers and still are the best 3 way selector switch out there.

 

The neck position requires fiddling' date=' pickup sounds distant, muffled, not very loud. Dirt? Dust? Bridge position is fine, I'm sincerely hoping it's not a cold joint, cuz me 'n solder guns don't exactly get along. [/quote']

 

If this is the original switch on your blue LP, then it's an asian cheap copy of the famous switchcraft switch.

The contact (leaf)springs are not that good and the contacts oxidize.

 

I'm thinking perhaps a generous (sp?) blast of good old canned air might solve the problem.

I'm wondering if any of the resident Guitar Techs here at the Epiphone Forums would possibly confirm that this MAY remedy the ailing switch on my most beloved, and trusted Blue Bomber? PLEASE tell me I don't need to break out the old iron, cuz I'll make a cold joint frozen...in short I can't solder to save my life. Anyone?

 

You can try contact spray and wiggling it a few times..it might work, but chances are you will need

to replace it at some point and bite the bullet as they say. I would not recommend using a heavy

duty soldering gun on these contacts or any contacts in a guitar. What you need is a 30-40watt

pencil tip iron, fine electronic solder and careful tinning and wraping of the fine wires involved.

Taking it to an person with electronic soldering experience would be the best.

 

here are pictures of the real McCoy..not the imposters out there.

http://www.switchcraft.com/products/switch-301.html

 

Most of the online stores including Stew-Mac sell the asian variety.

If you want a genuine Switchcraft that will give you years of trouble free performance..get

one from guitarpartsresource.

http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/electrical_gibsonswitches.htm

 

 

 

 

 

[Bender 4 Life]

allparts.com also sells "Made In U.S.A." Switchcraft 3-ways.

 

as for soldering.........if you want to become an "instant soldering guru" get yourself a Weller Soldering GUN, it has 2 stage operation........low wattage for cooler slower jobs, and high wattage for those jobs where you need a good joint, without overheating the component........(this is accomplished by a hotter but much quicker "contact time").

 

6 months ago I couldn't solder for sh%($^.............my Mrs. got me "the magic gun" and i've soldered every imaginable part of my guitars, never any damage, and always a good joint on the 1st try.

I even used it to reconnect loose wires and wrongly routed wiring on my "Old Timer" GLP.

I practiced on some spare wire and old pots,switches, etc, for about an hr. when I 1st used it.........I'll never look back.

 

Edit: oops.......sorry Carver, not intending to argue, just giving my personal experience, perhaps i'm an "oddity" because the Mini, & Pencil irons I never had any luck with.........bad joints etc.

I guess the trick with the guns 2nd stage is to be ready when the trigger is pulled, and get off the component quickly.

[Dave]

Soldering is indeed an acquired art' date=' and....as they say, practice makes perfect. Good joint prep is a major factor. One cardinal rule is to not move the parts or joint until the solder is cooled; there's usually a good visual indication of this.

 

I've had good luck with both types of tools, both the pencils and the gun-type. (I tried one of those "Cold Heat" guns once, but it was a piece of junk.) As with any tool, the better you have the better the end result should be.

 

[/quote']

 

A good mechanical connection is a must before soldering. I like to strip, tin, and wrap, then clamp it with pliers to press the connection together before soldering. Tinning gives you some stiffness that allows you to wrap and squeeze it tight. "In the hole and around the block" is a good practice.

 

I like a good 60 watt iron for electronic use. The one I have right now is a Radio Shack dual heat soldering station that is good for guitar work. My fear with a Weller soldering gun is overkill. I've owned a Weller gun over the years and it's good for heavy stuff, especially gig related speaker plugs and such, but with volume and tone pots there's always the chance that you will cook the rheostat inside the pot with hight heat.

[Notes_Norton]

Here is what I'd try first.

 

1) Remove the switch (do not disconnect the wires)

 

2) Go to RadioShack or an electronics supply house and get some Caig DeOxit. If you can get the little bottle with the brush this will be easier.

 

3) Cut a small strip of business card

 

4) Generously apply some DeOxit to the tip of the card

 

5) Open the contacts of the switch and insert the DeOxit soaked business card

 

6) Close the contacts and gently rub the card back and forth a dozen or so times

 

7) Open the contacts, remove the card, and insert the dry end of the card

 

8) Close the contacts and slide the card out.

 

9) Repeat on the other side of the switch

 

If your problem is a bit of corrosion on the contacts, this should solve the problem.

 

Here in South Florida, I live with potentially corroded contacts and have to attend to them regularly.

 

Insights and incites by Notes ?

[carverman]

Edit: oops.......sorry Carver' date=' not intending to argue, just giving my personal experience, perhaps i'm an "oddity" because the Mini, & Pencil irons I never had any luck with.........bad joints etc.

I guess the trick with the guns 2nd stage is to be ready when the trigger is pulled, and get off the component quickly.[/quote']

 

Well everybody does thing differently and that's fine. I happen to prefer temperature

controlled 700 degree pencil tip Weller soldering stations with any of my electronic

soldering and that works for me. Good solder joints every time.

All I want to add to all yous "gurus" out there is that IF you overheat 63/37 electronic

solder with a 900 degree soldering gun..you end up with the solder itself crystallizing

forming a (possible) cold solder joint. The secret to any good joint is use as much

flux as needed and only as much heat as is needed for the size of the joint.

 

Over heating any sensitive component like pots, switches or push-pulls, and you might

as well start over again.

[duane v]

Matiac

 

If you need a switchcraft switch, I have like four of those things sitting in my parts bin..... I'll put one in bag and ship it to ya.

 

lemme know

[peeper]

Try cleaning it as Notes said. That fixes it 80% of the time.

[tflanster]

Soldering is indeed an acquired art' date=' and....as they say, practice makes perfect. Good joint prep is a major factor. One cardinal rule is to not move the parts or joint until the solder is cooled; there's usually a good visual indication of this.

 

I've had good luck with both types of tools, both the pencils and the gun-type. (I tried one of those "Cold Heat" guns once, but it was a piece of junk.) As with any tool, the better you have the better the end result should be.

 

[/quote']

 

This may seem archaic overkill, but there's a lot of different opinion about soldering here. Some are afraid of it, some are successful. Here's my experience; several years ago while in college, I worked at an electronics manufacturing plant that was making parts for the Minuteman and Midas missile systems. I had to go to a training program to become a "NASA Certified Solderer". The certification came complete with a badge and certificate. Certification had to be renewed yearly. That's how important soldering was to NASA. So . . . after all these years, I still have a pencil soldering iron with changeable tips and ceramic heat cartridges from 25 to 40 watts, flux core thin solder and sponge wiping pads. I don't like "soldering guns". They're overkill on the small diameter wire and connectors used in guitars. They work but it takes practice. If 25 to 40 watt pencils are good enough for NASA they sure as hell are good enough for Epiphone[biggrin]

 

So, to get a good solder joint you need to be certain that the connector is clean. if using stranded wire it should be twisted and tinned (it doesn't hurt to tin solid wire too). Wrap the wire one turn on the connector, apply the tinned tip to one side of the joint and apply the solder to the opposite side. The solder will flow around the joint - you don't need a big glob of solder. Remove the heat and leave the joint alone. A good solder joint will be shiny. A cold joint will be dull. A cold joint can be "flashed" by applying heated tip to the joint.