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K&K Pure Mini Pickups (passive)


RASHARU

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I installed the "bare bones" K&K PWM in the J200 I recently traded away. The install went quite well.......just a matter of following the instructions and making a couple of "dry runs", sans glue, to get used to the procedure. The guitar was already drilled for the endpin jack so no trouble there. Installed by the super glue method for, what to me, is a much better transducer-to-bridge plate interface than double sided tape. Excellent tone for a passive pickup and most guitars will require a slight mid cut to balance everything. Plenty of output to drive the input of anything I ever plugged it into, without an outboard preamp of any kind, though they certainly have their place. Subject to feedback when used in close quarters but a feedback buster solves that right away. Overall a very good pickup tonaly, capturing all of the acoustic guitar body "noise" that goes along with playing.

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I had mine installed by John How a local Luthier......the thought of me, a tube of super glue and my beautiful guitars .....NO WAY!

 

I had a K&K installed into one guitar and with in 6 months I had him do two more....basically I was sold on them. +1 to everything Buc said.

 

Definitely don't need a pre-amp with these pups, although since I have 3 now (in for a penny - in for a pound) I went ahead and got the K&K pre and it is quite nice ---again not required.

 

Mine do have the sound hole volume control, but it is simple Velcro attachment so no biggie on installing that.

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Yes!!!

 

I put a Pure Mini in my Martin DX1 a couple weeks ago. Did the install myself, and it was pretty easy. Through my Acoustisonic, the signal is plenty strong, and I like the sound very much. It's better than the Fishman UST in my Yamaha.

 

More recently, I have bee tracking the Pure Mini into Logic on my iMac. This is a whole-nother gig, as Logic has instrument profiles with EQ, compression, reverb, blah, blah, blah. And the profiles are made or Piezo pick-ups, so it will just blow you away.

 

All in all, I give the K&K Pure Mini my coveted +P+ rating.

 

 

ETA: Use a 15/32" drill bit for the endpin jack, not the 1/2" that is generally recommended. Tape over with duct tape, then drill out to 3/8" first, then go up to the 15/32" bit. No worries, mine came out with a totally professional final appearance, and I like the fact that there are no electronics, wires, or battery packs in the body. Plus, you don't have to remember to unplug the cable to prevent preamp battery drain.

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I put the K&K Mini Westerns in my 1999 Martin HD-28V. I did not do the installation. I had a Martin authorized luthier put the pickups in. I also purchaed the "Vintage Jack" that looks the regular end strap pin and it fits into the existing hole; no drilling. It cost about $80.00 but I didn't want to do any drilling, I am very very pleased with them. I use an L.R. Baggs DI and the sound is fantastic although it sounds great without the DI box too.

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I have K & K Mini Westerns in both my 64 LG1 and my Advanced Jumbo. It is by far my favorite pickup. When the 17 year old Highlander UST finally craps out in my Taylor, I know what I will replace it with. (Hint.... it's initials are K & K! B) )

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I have K & K Mini Westerns in both my 64 LG1 and my Advanced Jumbo. It is by far my favorite pickup. When the 17 year old Highlander UST finally craps out in my Taylor, I know what I will replace it with. (Hint.... it's initials are K & K! B) )

Did you install both of them yourself? I'm gonna buy one next week but I'm not too keen on the idea of letting someone else fondle my Vine. I had some set-up work done on a Taylor one time & the shop marred the finish near the soundhole (yes, a VERY respected local shop!). They were quite apologetic but the damage was done .. so to speak. I have truss't issues now. 8-[

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Did you install both of them yourself? I'm gonna buy one next week but I'm not too keen on the idea of letting someone else fondle my Vine. I had some set-up work done on a Taylor one time & the shop marred the finish near the soundhole (yes, a VERY respected local shop!). They were quite apologetic but the damage was done .. so to speak. I have truss't issues now. 8-[

 

No... I like doing some things to my own guitars, but when it comes to drilling or working around the braces and bridge plate, I let the pro's take over. I am VERY fortunate to have a host of top quality luthiers and techs in the Minneapolis area that I would trust with any and all of my guitars. My problem is figuring out which of the several to take my guitars to. I guess that is a good problem to have. [thumbup]

 

Also, the guy I had do my K & K installs adds a capacitor in the mix somewhere that takes away any potential impediance problem when hooking up to my LR Baggs PARA DI or other DI boxes for going straight to a PA system at a church or other venues I may play at. I wish I could tell you what exactly he does, but he adds it for no extra charge on the install. For me, buying the pickup and having it installed for under $200 is a total bargin. The only hard part is waiting to get it back from the shop!

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ETA: Use a 15/32" drill bit for the endpin jack, not the 1/2" that is generally recommended. Tape over with duct tape, then drill out to 3/8" first, then go up to the 15/32" bit. No worries, mine came out with a totally professional final appearance, and I like the fact that there are no electronics, wires, or battery packs in the body. Plus, you don't have to remember to unplug the cable to prevent preamp battery drain.

 

 

a good suggestion. the 15/32 usually works perfectly. however, i must advise against the drill. having done MANY acoustic pickup installations (i used to be a pro tech) i would have to suggest going with a hand reamer. Stew-Mac makes a great one with a nice taper and easy to use. it's much safer that using a drill. the drill can slip, and also produce a larger hole or oblong hole.

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I have the K&K mini in my AJ. (Yes, I installed it myself: I restore antique wood&fabric aircraft, and if I trust my work enough to sit my a** and hubby's a** a mile high in one of them, I figured I should have sufficient skill for the pickup install.)

 

It sounds glorious through my Genz Benz Shenandoah amp as well as through stage PAs. Very true. I'm ecstatic actually.

 

I concur with the caveat re using regular drillbits. They tend to grab, even if you mask well, go slow, and work your way up through the sizes. A reamer or step-bit is less likely to splinter the wood or chip the finish. Another alternative is to drill a pilot hole (if required) then expand it using a tapered sanding tip, such as one might find with dremels and the like. I masked, then used an antique power reamer at slow speed.

 

Actually, slow was the watchword. Lots of dry test-fits before the superglue, and slow with the reamer. Took me just over an hour all told, including masking time for protecting the top and endpin area.

 

Hope this helps!

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Based on these positive reviews I'm going to get one and have it installed on my Martin HD-28. I'll get the vintage endpin version so no drilling required.

 

Now I just need to decide if I should get one with a volume wheel or not. If I get the volume wheel I'd have to mount it far enough away from the soundhole so that it doesn't get in the way if I have to use a backbuster. Any one got any comments about whether or not it's worth having the volume wheel?

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Based on these positive reviews I'm going to get one and have it installed on my Martin HD-28. I'll get the vintage endpin version so no drilling required.

 

Now I just need to decide if I should get one with a volume wheel or not. If I get the volume wheel I'd have to mount it far enough away from the soundhole so that it doesn't get in the way if I have to use a backbuster. Any one got any comments about whether or not it's worth having the volume wheel?

 

I have had an old Ernie Ball volume pedal for years and never have liked an "on board" volume as the pedal is so easy to use. It works for all my guitars including my electric as well.

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I have had an old Ernie Ball volume pedal for years and never have liked an "on board" volume as the pedal is so easy to use. It works for all my guitars including my electric as well.

 

I have the same pedal. Thinking about it I have volume controls on two L R Baggs M1 actives I have in my Gibsons and once I have adjusted it at the soundcheck I never touch it again. In fact I rarely even touch it at the soundcheck as it's usually always in the same position. So I think I've answered my own question!!

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a good suggestion. the 15/32 usually works perfectly. however, i must advise against the drill. having done MANY acoustic pickup installations (i used to be a pro tech) i would have to suggest going with a hand reamer. Stew-Mac makes a great one with a nice taper and easy to use. it's much safer that using a drill. the drill can slip, and also produce a larger hole or oblong hole.

 

I defer to the gentleman.

 

Note, I was doing a DX1 with the HPL body material, and I am quite handy with tools an such. If it was a finer guitar, I would take it to a luthier or at least research and buy a more suitable tool.

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