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OVER-WRAP GOLD BRIDGE ?


Wild Bill 212
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For the experienced among us, I pose a question: Will a NEW GOLD PLATED STOP-TAIL become scratched/ruined/discoloured or other-wise screwed up in any way if I OVER-WRAP the strings on my 2018 EXPLORER 'ELITE' ? I have never owned such a STOP-TAIL and I would rather NOT go out of my way to ruin an other-wise perfectly good STOP-TAIL piece. I ask in good faith that some player's here have crossed this particular 'BRIDGE', PUN INTENDED, and can advise me of how the situation worked out.

 

 

I was once all for OVER-WRAPPING, however I have stopped OVER-WRAPPING due to a long story.......

 

BUT now, for the strings on my 2018 EXPLORER 'ELITE' to clear the Back of the Bridge Plate (which I am a big believer in doing, ITSSA MUST!) the STOP-TAIL must be jacked up to where the Set-Up looks pretty awful. I do not think that the SUSTAIN or any of the Harmonics on the Guitar are effected like this and it is the way the Guitar arrived from the Retailer. But the Stop-Tail is so high that I must ask this question above....

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Yes. The strings will mess up the plating. There's not the slightest doubt about that.

Gold plate really IS gold and, as we all know, gold is a very soft metal and easily marked. If there is abrasive contact between steel and gold there's only going to be one outcome...

 

Pip.

Edited by pippy
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Yes. The strings will mess up the plating. There's not the slightest doubt about that.

Gold plate really IS gold and, as we all know, gold is a very soft metal and easily marked. If there is abrasive contact between steel and gold there's only going to be one outcome...

 

Pip.

 

YO PIP.....THANK YOU,I appreciate it and BTW, that is what I figured and there was NO WAY I'd have done it until I heard some type of response. The bottom of the STOP-TAIL sits 1/3" (22/64TH's of an inch) above the Body so as the LOW 'E' String just barely touches/clears the Back of the Bridge Plate. Its just going to have to be the Beauty of the Beast as the Guitar was expensive enough without going and ruining something on it that needs not be ruined.I stopped over-wrapping after a Les Paul I had was buzzing intolerably due to the Over-Wrap technique, as to why, IDK but the BUZZ from the Bridge/Stop-Tail area was intolerable and I after I changed it back........all was right with Lester.

 

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A lot of Gibsons have this bridge issue and I think it doesn't hurt anything for strings to contact the bridge before the saddles unless you are getting string breakage. Is it a perfect scenerio? No, its lousy QC at the factory and its due to improper neck angle. I would contact Gibson and see what they will do.

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A lot of Gibsons have this bridge issue and I think it doesn't hurt anything for strings to contact the bridge before the saddles unless you are getting string breakage. Is it a perfect scenerio? No, its lousy QC at the factory and its due to improper neck angle. I would contact Gibson and see what they will do.

 

 

The Neck angle is EXACTLY what I figure the likely culprit for making it necessary to jack up the Stop-Tail to such a height just to avoid contact with the Bridge Plate back. In previous years the Neck angle & 'Degrees of Tolerance' of the Neck Angle was listed in the specs of the Guitar on Gibson.com, as is/was the type of connection used, i.e. 'Mortise and Tennon', but no longer is this info listed. Not for this particular Guitar anyway.

Contacting GIBSON USA, as I am learning, is an exercise in futility lately. Prior to the recent Court proceedings, Customer Svc. had been fairly responsive to me, even giving me a FREE OUT-PUT Jack for a Les Paul that had passed the warranty date by a couple of months, which I happily installed myself. However, now? Not so much. An EXAMPLE: I have an 'SG' STANDARD that needs to have the Control Cavity and Pick-Up Cavities 'SHIELDED', just like 4 of the 5 GIBSON USA Model's I have purchased since May 2016 needed to be 'SHIELDED'. Quite Frankly, I am sick of paying to shield what is basically an un-finished Guitar. I can do the work myself, but that is not the point, GIBSON USA has been selling un-finished Guitars for quite sometime now, and I believe that GIBSON USA has got to be aware of the problem as the comments section of their web-site was just loaded with outraged customer's expressing varying degree's of OUTRAGE and DISGUST over the degree of static & popping noise coming from touching the back of the Control Pocket Cavity when the Guitar is plugged in and contact is made with the Control Cavity Cover plate. GIBSON USA's classic, consistent response, echoed by retailer's, is that it is due to climate the Guitar is in. WHICH IS A BALD-FACED LIE, my Guitars are kept in a Climate Controlled room at all times. I know, the Popping & Static noise's on almost every single GIBSON USA Guitar in every store and on-line purchase I have made since May of 2016 is due to the fact that GIBSON USA no longer PAINTS THE CONTROL CAVITY with BLACK SHIELDING PAINT. IDK when GIBSON USA stopped doing this but all of my older GIBSON USA Models have clearly been 'SHIELDED' , as is obvious by looking inside the Control Cavity and seeing the Black Shielding Paint that is now missing on GIBSON USA Model's with the new Plug N Play, Quick-Connect, PC Boards installed in them. GIBSON 'MEMPHIS' and GIBSON 'CUSTOM' Shop Guitars do not suffer from 'SHIELDING' issue's, it is the STANDARD and Lower end Model's sold by GIBSON USA that are effected by this lack of SHIELDING PAINT and GIBSON USA just ignores the problem and blames, "THE WEATHER". Comical as that sounds it is frikkin pathetic. However, to produce a profitable Guitar for under $1,000- $1,600 as GIBSON USA is doing, certain cuts have to be made in the production line to accomplish this, and SHIELDING PAINT is definitely one of them. Another is the automated 'NUT' and Fret making, done by the PLEK Machine. These Machines are claimed to be accurate to an absurd level of tolerance in the Hundreds of thousandths of an inch, BUT anyone who can properly measure the String Action @ the 1ST Fret of a GIBSON USA Guitar that has been 'PLEK'-ed can tell you that the height is not 2/64THs @ LOW 'E' or 1/64THs @ HIGH 'E'. Check the same measurement on a GIBSON 'MEMPHIS' or GIBSON 'CUSTOM' SHOP Guitar, the proof, as they say, is in the puddin.....

So, you are correct. QC is deficient and the root cause of the deficiency should surprise no one...

 

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over time guitars evolved to where they were given adjustable parts for a reason.

 

that has nothing to do with QC anything

 

 

"Top warp" Stop Tail.. it's a part that's under $30.. what's the issue?

play the guitar for real and its going to get dinged and scratched..

 

shielding.. well.. how much shielding paint was put on Les Paul's from 1953-1962?

Edited by Eracer_Team
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over time guitars evolved to where they were given adjustable parts for a reason.

 

that has nothing to do with QC anything

 

 

"Top warp" Stop Tail.. it's a part that's under $30.. what's the issue?

play the guitar for real and its going to get dinged and scratched..

 

shielding.. well.. how much shielding paint was put on Les Paul's from 1953-1962?

 

U tell me...IDK, how much paint as used? I am sure you can read, so you know what the issue was/is. I asked a question and someone was kind enough to answer it.

 

I have no reason to ask(or even think of asking) GIBSON USA to re-attach the Neck to the Guitar, so as to be able to lower the Bridge. I have no idea how to use a Pitch-Gauge, and I have also never mounted a SET-IN Neck onto a Guitar, and at this point I would not even attempt it.

The Beauty of the Beast is fine with me.I happen to like the Guitar a lot, it is the only GIBSON USA Model I have purchased in 2 1/2 years that does not need to be shielded as well.

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A lot of Gibsons have this bridge issue and I think it doesn't hurt anything for strings to contact the bridge before the saddles unless you are getting string breakage. Is it a perfect scenerio? No, its lousy QC at the factory and its due to improper neck angle. I would contact Gibson and see what they will do.

 

The Neck angle is EXACTLY what I figure the likely culprit for making it necessary to jack up the Stop-Tail to such a height just to avoid contact with the Bridge Plate back.

 

I could set my stop tail such that it hits the back of the bridge on every string and then break the neck clean off the guitar and those strings would still be touching that bridge edge when you pull them tight and move them all over the place.

 

The string stops at the saddle. The piece of string going to the stop bar has no clue whatsoever what the neck is doing or if it is even there. That angle is between the saddle and the stop, the neck is not involved at all.

 

Any Gibson guitar can be made to touch the back of the bridge, especially the old wide harmonicas. It isn't QC, it's a consequence of how close the two parts are to each other. And a lot of your favorite records that are chock full of your favorite guitar sounds were made using guitars with strings touching the back of the bridge. It isn't a problem, but over the decades it has become an "issue" for some.

 

rct

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I could set my stop tail such that it hits the back of the bridge on every string and then break the neck clean off the guitar and those strings would still be touching that bridge edge when you pull them tight and move them all over the place.

 

The string stops at the saddle. The piece of string going to the stop bar has no clue whatsoever what the neck is doing or if it is even there. That angle is between the saddle and the stop, the neck is not involved at all.

 

Any Gibson guitar can be made to touch the back of the bridge, especially the old wide harmonicas. It isn't QC, it's a consequence of how close the two parts are to each other. And a lot of your favorite records that are chock full of your favorite guitar sounds were made using guitars with strings touching the back of the bridge. It isn't a problem, but over the decades it has become an "issue" for some.

 

rct

 

LOL, I did not want to start the whole 'TO WRAP or OVER-WRAP' or 'To Touch or not to touch' debate with this thread, NO I DID NOT. I asked an un-related question......... I avoid the back of the bridge plate for a specific reason and it has nothing to do with anything you just stated, nothing. The specific reason was pointed out to me by a Guy I was fortunate enough to meet about 20 years ago who was a GIBSON Final Inspector. He told me a lot of things, taught me some Lutherie skills and I am forever indebted to the Man. I will not say the reason why I avoid the back of the bridge plate because of what I stated at the start of this comment. As far as the NECK Angle goes, there is an argument in there I am not in the mood to get into, I simply do not care enough to give a **** if someone else is right or wrong. I'm not Orville Gibson and I never said I was.

 

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LOL, I did not want to start the whole 'TO WRAP or OVER-WRAP' or 'To Touch or not to touch' debate with this thread, NO I DID NOT. I asked an un-related question......... I avoid the back of the bridge plate for a specific reason and it has nothing to do with anything you just stated, nothing. The specific reason was pointed out to me by a Guy I was fortunate enough to meet about 20 years ago who was a GIBSON Final Inspector. He told me a lot of things, taught me some Lutherie skills and I am forever indebted to the Man. I will not say the reason why I avoid the back of the bridge plate because of what I stated at the start of this comment. As far as the NECK Angle goes, there is an argument in there I am not in the mood to get into, I simply do not care enough to give a **** if someone else is right or wrong. I'm not Orville Gibson and I never said I was.

 

I don't want to argue. I also don't want people that are new to the guitar to spend the rest of their days talking about things that just aren't true. That seems to be the one thing people excel at paying attention to, the all wrong things.

 

rct

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I don't want to argue. I also don't want people that are new to the guitar to spend the rest of their days talking about things that just aren't true. That seems to be the one thing people excel at paying attention to, the all wrong things.

 

rct

 

Very Good, me neither........ IDK what others excel at and do not care,,,, too much........BUT, according to J. Bonamassa's most recent 'Rig-Rundown', sez Big Joe "Right now....the GIBSON 'CUSTOM SHOP' is making some of the best Guitars ever produced.......'. and that echoes what Don Felder said ,ALMOST the same exact thing, in a BooB-Toob video. I'm not a crazed fan of either but I respect them both HUGELY as player's and ,for different reason's, their Guitar knowledge.....and they are correct about what they stated.

 

The thing that bothers me about GIBSON USA is that it is Hit or Miss with a lot of those Guitars (and .......almost every single one of them needs to be SHIELDED! and GIBSON USA acts as if they do not know what the outraged customer with the Popping Guitar is talking about ! THEY DAMN WELL KNOW ALL ABOUT IT !)..WTF ? I paid $2500 for a POPPING Les Paul STANDARD,and GIBSON USA knows that Guitar needed to be shielded....So,NO, OH NO, NO WAY ! and the fact is that the Brick and Mortar stores are no longer stocking a lot of Guitars due to the on-line retailer's taking all their business. so buyer's like ME no longer get to have a selection of Guitars to chose from when I go to spend my hard earned. AMOF, there is usually no selection (A lot of Guitar retailer's will no longer deal with GIBSON USA) and the guitar has to be ordered. So,Then, just to get a QUALITY AMERICAN MADE Guitar I have to spend $5-$7 Grand minimum and most likely have to travel to Nashville,TN to buy it...... this was not always the case, IT WAS NOT ! and the next Guitar I buy from GIBSON USA that is 'Popping', like the last 5 (that I put up with, and have had to pay to have shielded) I bought prior to the 2018 EXPLORER or has a bad angle neck........its just going the **** back and I am not going to feel bad about it or really even GAS. GIBSON serves its HIGH ROLLER clientele, which is OK, I get it, I do. BUT what about the rest of us........???

LIS, GIBSON USA may have started re-shielding their guitars, but IDK 4 sure as I have yet to look. You will never have a SHIELDING problem, or get a poorly cut NUT with a GIBSON 'MEMPHIS' or GIBSON 'CUSTOM' SHOP Guitar, that is 4 sure.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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It seems like you're awful grumpy and making a lot of accusations and assumptions about the Gibson USA line. I just haven't experienced the same issues. I have 4 Les Pauls (2017 Standard, 2017 Tribute, 2018 Traditional and 2018 Classic) as well as a 2007 Flying V and a 1981 Flying V that I've had for 34 years. Quality and playability on all of mine have been fantastic. Personally I don't care whether or not someone top wraps. It will mar the tailpiece but putting a new tailpiece on it while keeping the original intact takes just a few minutes. Go for it. If you love your guitar, get it fixed and do with it what you want and have it set up how you like it. Complaining about it on an internet forum won't do much good.

 

But, to address your static issue, I have no idea whether or not the cavities on any of my guitars is shielded or painted or whatever. I've opened them. I've worked in them. I just don't know because they worked and I didn't have issues. However, when I first got my 2018 Les Paul Traditional, I noticed a bit of static/noise at first. But, after playing it for 100 hours or so at home, band practice, gigs, etc, it's not an issue any longer. I've heard that the nitro builds up a little static at first and then settles in. String height and quality are amazing and I'd put my $800.00 Tribute against any Custom Shop guitar. It's amazing, as are the rest.

 

If yours bothers you, get it fixed, set it up like you want it and play the hell out of it for years.

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Unless one of the "more knowledgeable " can correct me.

 

I don't think Gibson ever used conductive paint or foil cart blanche on their product lines.

If it was done, it would have been selected products.

 

Gibson typically uses the ground wires/braid to connect the electronics and many have the steel plate to hold the controls and provide a shield

(Newer PCB boards rely on the traces for shield)

 

I don't think there is "if they go back to shielding their guitars", to go back to.

Edited by Eracer_Team
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Unless one of the "more knowledgeable " can correct me.

 

I don't think Gibson ever used conductive paint or foil cart blanche on their product lines.

If it was done, it would have been selected products.

 

Gibson typically uses the ground wires/braid to connect the electronics and many have the steel plate to hold the controls and provide a shield

(Newer PCB boards rely on the traces for shield)

 

I don't think there is "if they go back to shielding their guitars", to go back to.

 

I don't recall ever seeing anything like that in any of my guitars. I've never paid much attention though.

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...I don't care whether or not someone top wraps. It will mar the tailpiece but putting a new tailpiece on it while keeping the original intact takes just a few minutes...

In my original post I merely replied to the question as asked by the OP. Nothing else needed to be said IMO.

Had my opinion on the matter - and how best to approach it - been sought I would have said much as Michael has said above. Cost incurred is negligible and swapping a t/p whilst changing strings takes mere seconds.

 

I've also been here long enough to be able to predict exactly where any discussions about 'top-wrapping' or 'strings touching the bridge-rear' will inevitably head. I used to get involved in the ensuing melee and have made my own feelings on both matters crystal clear but have since learned that the best course of action in both cases is to steer well clear at all costs!......

 

msp_smile.gif

 

Pip.

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In my original post I merely replied to the question as asked by the OP. Nothing else needed to be said IMO.

Had my opinion on the matter - and how best to approach it - been sought I would have said much as Michael has said above. Cost incurred is negligible and swapping a t/p whilst changing strings takes mere seconds.

 

I've also been here long enough to be able to predict exactly where any discussions about 'top-wrapping' or 'strings touching the bridge-rear' will inevitably head. I used to get involved in the ensuing melee and have made my own feelings on both matters crystal clear but have since learned that the best course of action in both cases is to steer well clear at all costs!......

 

msp_smile.gif

 

Pip.

 

Yeah, people are certainly passionate about that, aren't they? Honestly, until the last year or two, I'd never heard of such a thing nor cared one way or the other. I must live in my own little bubble. But, now we have this internet thing and it's all over the place! Did someone famous do it once or something?

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It seems like you're awful grumpy and making a lot of accusations and assumptions about the Gibson USA line. I just haven't experienced the same issues. I have 4 Les Pauls (2017 Standard, 2017 Tribute, 2018 Traditional and 2018 Classic) as well as a 2007 Flying V and a 1981 Flying V that I've had for 34 years. Quality and playability on all of mine have been fantastic. Personally I don't care whether or not someone top wraps. It will mar the tailpiece but putting a new tailpiece on it while keeping the original intact takes just a few minutes. Go for it. If you love your guitar, get it fixed and do with it what you want and have it set up how you like it. Complaining about it on an internet forum won't do much good.

 

But, to address your static issue, I have no idea whether or not the cavities on any of my guitars is shielded or painted or whatever. I've opened them. I've worked in them. I just don't know because they worked and I didn't have issues. However, when I first got my 2018 Les Paul Traditional, I noticed a bit of static/noise at first. But, after playing it for 100 hours or so at home, band practice, gigs, etc, it's not an issue any longer. I've heard that the nitro builds up a little static at first and then settles in. String height and quality are amazing and I'd put my $800.00 Tribute against any Custom Shop guitar. It's amazing, as are the rest.

 

If yours bothers you, get it fixed, set it up like you want it and play the hell out of it for years.

 

NO, I am not 'AWFUL GRUMPY', I'm ****IN PISSED (and surely do not care if you don't like that I am writing about it on an internet forum run by ,WHO? GIBSON !) and I actually hope Henry J see's this. I was not addressing you to begin with! Five Guitars, all needing to be shielded, and GIBSON will not fix them on a warranty repair? NO, OH HORSE-**** ! ... and I know for a fact GIBSON USA used to SHIELD the Control Pocket Cavities, they used BLACK SHIELDING PAINT. It is a special sort of paint and, NO, IDK exactly what makes it so special either, but it has something to do with the paints Viscosity. All you have to do is pop the Control Pocket Cover off of a 1970's or 1990's GIBSON USA Guitar and you will see the SHIELDING PAINT. I did not mention 1980's GIBSON USA's because I never owned one and I never looked in the Control Pocket Cavity of one.

 

 

and as far as your tribute going 'against any custom shop guitar'. LMAO, I realize you probably like it a lot, BUT PLEASE, this is FYI: I heard Eddie Van Halen say this to a Guy in Los Angeles one day around 1994, sed EDDIE "A GREAT GUITAR SOUNDS GREAT PLUGGED IN AND SOUNDS JUST AS GOOD WHEN ITS NOT PLUGGED IN.", I guarantee you that your $800 LP Tribute, as much as you love it, sounds nowhere near as good as a $6,000 CUSTOM SHOP Guitar when its not plugged in (and probably not when its plugged in too, although I have heard some Faded's that sound ALMOST as good as a Traditional PLUGGED IN). From my experience, I KNOW EVH happens to be right about that. Also, I do not even like the EVH's music, but when your right, your right.

 

 

BTW, I set up my own Guitars, and IMO I am good at it too.......I DID NOT TELL YOU WHAT TO DO. (OR WHERE TO GO EITHER)

I do not know why GIBSON USA stopped shielding their Guitars, FFS ! but I suppose $$$ MIGHT have something to do with it. BUT REALLY? IDK, I really do not know why they stopped shielding their Guitars.

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To add, I don't even think that say a LP can be shielded completely and properly. The idea behind shielding is to completely encapsulate a system with a seamless conductor - which means no openings where electrical interference can penetrate the system. What about the channels that lead the wires into the toggle switch - and the control cavity channel where the pickup wires head toward the pots and output jack... You have to do one heck of a job to encapsulate this. Fenders can be shielded much easier because you have the ability to easily access the pickup routes and control routings and such. I digress... And the control plates also should have some sort of conductor on the inside to assist in the "seamlessness" of the shield. I remember taking an EMC course in college (electromagnetic compatibility). If a particular wavelength of a signal is at least 1/4 of the size of the seam in a particular shield, it is vulnerable. Just have to orient the guitar in the right position for the EMC wave to penetrate the system and use the guitar's wires as antennae. It's been a while since I studied this and it is not my expertise (EMC that is - I do SW and embedded systems work). I could have some of these facts a bit mixed up. But I believe generally I have the right idea.

 

RIGHT, for A FARADAY's BOX you have to do the Toggle Switch Cavity and the Pick-Up Cavity as well as the Run-Way's too. That is what I paid to have done to the 5 guitars I have had SHIELDED. Now, IDK, if a complete 'SHIELD' was necessary. From the little bit I know about shielding, and I am NOT Orville Gibson nor am I an Electrical Engineer, That is not what is required to stop the Guitar from Popping when the Control Cavity Cover is scratched while the Guitar is plugged in. Just doing the Control Cavity should do it, but but BUT, I suppose the $120 perfectly constructed 'FARADAY's BOX' that was put in each of these 5 Guitars didn't hurt them none either.They are now completely SILENT when plugged in....and they damn well should be too !

 

I get the feeling people think I am complaining about the cost of a $6 can of SHIELDING paint. Well, NO, TO BE SPECIFIC it was more like $600 to SHIELD 5 GIBSON USA Guitars that should have been SHIELDED before they left the factory.

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You're all good man... You are definitely not the worst complainer here. I am worse than you, I can tell you that, haha! I've ate my meds I have received here. If shielding is something you desire for your guitars, then you should have that done to your guitars. I think that if you are expecting Gibson to do this, well that is just not going to happen unfortunately. Even if they used to do something like this in the past, they don't do this today AFAIK. They probably think this drives up production costs and eats into their profits. I mean, most people don't even know if it is shielded, ever was in the past, etc. There is no value in Gibson (on their behalf) to do this apparently as it is not a sought after feature the way I see it. Time is money in manufacturing, and if Gibson can squeeze out some pennies on the dollar for some time savings, you bet they'd do it. Many, many companies would do this. As the consumer, not good for you, but as company, it saves time and money. As a consumer, I agree it short-changes sort of.

 

BWAH HA HA HA !!! Thanks, I needed that. I've been playing GIBSON's since 1978, seen the Up's and Down's etc...the fact that my 2018 GIBSON USA EXPLORER 'ELITE' is SILENT has me thinking maybe GIBSON USA is shielding again? IDK if GIBSON CUSTOM SHOP or GIBSON 'MEMPHIS' shields their guitars but you also never hear of this problem with one of those shops guitars, NEVER ! I would bet they do. I am glad you looked at your NIGHTHAWK and saw the SHIELDING PAINT. GIBSON USA stopped doing this and I would bet its because of $$, just a lucky hunch, yes?

 

I have a guy I buy from, really GOOD DUDE..... and I am going to have to inform him that next GIBSON USA Guitar he is shipping to me: "Yo, if it 'POPS' and you do not want it back, SHIELD IT BEFORE YOU SHIP IT !".

Edited by Wild Bill 212
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NO, I am not 'AWFUL GRUMPY', I'm ****IN PISSED (and surely do not care if you don't like that I am writing about it on an internet forum run by ,WHO? GIBSON !) and I actually hope Henry J see's this. I was not addressing you to begin with! Five Guitars, all needing to be shielded, and GIBSON will not fix them on a warranty repair? NO, OH HORSE-**** ! ... and I know for a fact GIBSON USA used to SHIELD the Control Pocket Cavities, they used BLACK SHIELDING PAINT. It is a special sort of paint and, NO, IDK exactly what makes it so special either, but it has something to do with the paints Viscosity. All you have to do is pop the Control Pocket Cover off of a 1970's or 1990's GIBSON USA Guitar and you will see the SHIELDING PAINT. I did not mention 1980's GIBSON USA's because I never owned one and I never looked in the Control Pocket Cavity of one.

 

 

and as far as your tribute going 'against any custom shop guitar'. LMAO, I realize you probably like it a lot, BUT PLEASE, this is FYI: I heard Eddie Van Halen say this to a Guy in Los Angeles one day around 1994, sed EDDIE "A GREAT GUITAR SOUNDS GREAT PLUGGED IN AND SOUNDS JUST AS GOOD WHEN ITS NOT PLUGGED IN.", I guarantee you that your $800 LP Tribute, as much as you love it, sounds nowhere near as good as a $6,000 CUSTOM SHOP Guitar when its not plugged in (and probably not when its plugged in too, although I have heard some Faded's that sound ALMOST as good as a Traditional PLUGGED IN). From my experience, I KNOW EVH happens to be right about that. Also, I do not even like the EVH's music, but when your right, your right.

 

 

BTW, I set up my own Guitars, and IMO I am good at it too.......I DID NOT TELL YOU WHAT TO DO. (OR WHERE TO GO EITHER)

I do not know why GIBSON USA stopped shielding their Guitars, FFS ! but I suppose $$$ MIGHT have something to do with it. BUT REALLY? IDK, I really do not know why they stopped shielding their Guitars.

 

Well, you, Eddie Van Halen and others are certainly entitled to your opinion and so am I. I honestly hope things work out for you and your guitars.

 

I still stand by my statement about that little Tribute though. Plugged in and unplugged, it sounds fantastic even when compared to a $6000.00 Custom Shop and my Standard, Traditional and Classic. Once again, it's my opinion. I really got lucky with that guitar. Seriously though, good luck.

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It's a jungle out there

Disorder and confusion everywhere

No one seems to care

Well I do

Hey, who's in charge here?

 

It's a jungle out there

Poison in the very air we breathe

Do you know what's in the water that you drink?

Well I do and it's amazing

 

People think I'm crazy 'cause I worry all the time

If you paid attention, you'd be worried too

You better pay attention

Or this world we love so much might just kill you

I could be wrong now, but I don't think so

'Cause it's a jungle out there, it's a jungle out there

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