Can you help this bird fly again?(long post)

[Crackerbear]

Hello, I was wondering if any one can give me and my friend some help. He brought me a vintage Gibson Hummingbird accoustic to look at yesterday, and we both have questions about it.

Here's what we have so far:

After a quick web search, I found one website that seemed to have a good breakdown. The serial number  starts with 500 (cant remember the rest but I can get that on Monday if needed), so according to the website,  that makes it a 65/69 model. It has a screwed on pick guard, and that site mentioned the 1968 models had a screwed on pickguard, but did not say that any other years had that feature. It has what I think is an adjustable saddle/bridge. There is a screw in it, but not screwed in all the way,on the bass side. Honestly, with what little I know, what I think is an adjustment screw may just be some bad attempt to hold the bridge on, but I didnt see any gap at all between the bridge and the sound board.The website mentioned some years had an adjustable bridge, but didnt elaborate on the mechanism itself. There is no label inside the guitar.

It appears to be in it's original finish, a light orangish burst type with a top coat of what I believe to be nitro cellulose lacquer. I  guessing by the guitar's suspected  age and  the discoloration and level cracking of the finish that it isn't poly.  As to the finish being original, my friend said he found it (not sure exactly what that means, but I'm sure it isnt stolen, lol) in an unventilated building or shed, where it may likely have been sitting through many years of NC summers and winters.

On to the questions:

DATING THE GUITAR:

1. I'm not familiar with how nitro ages. Is it possible that it could have been refinished with nitro later and just years of hot and cold may have  aged it? 

2A. Is this most likely a 1968 model, or are there other years between 65 and 69 that had the screwed on pickguard?

2B.Are there any other year specific features that would help us date the guitar?

CONDITION:

This guitar needs repair. One side of the  x brace, between the sound hole and  the bridge, is completely cracked( still attached to the sound board though) and the sound board has caved at the sound hole. The indention is directly above the crack, and is about a quarter inch lower in that spot that the rest of the board.

1. Does that indicate the the wood warped and the force cracked the x brace, or

2. Is it more likely that something, such as an impact, cracked the x brace and the wood just caved from the lack of support?

3. Can the x brace be glued back into shape to raise the dip back to near flat, or

4. Would the sound board need to be removed and rebuilt or replaced? I know it's hard to say with out seeing it, but I am hoping experience may have a voice.

I think it would be a shame to have to refinish this guitar (preference, but also concerned about impact on value) and I imagine to do it right would be quite expensive in itself. 

5. If the top would need to be removed but is salvageable with a rebrace or brace repair, would that still necessitate a refinish as well? 

6. If the guitar were to be refinished due to necessity because of the repair, does that impact resale or insurance value of the guitar?

CONDITION AND PLAYABILITY:

1A.  Can the guitar be played as long as it is not under the full tension of standard tuning (in case the cost of repair is to high)?

1B. Would a half step or full step down in tuning be enough to be able to play the guitar without putting too much strain on it, or should he just store it with no strings  tension at all until it has been repaired? I played it today and it still sounds amazing, and I guess the good news is that the bridge has not lifted at all, somehow. 

Lastly,

OPINIONS PLEASE;

1.What type and gauge  strings sound best on this guitar. I was reading  answers to another thread in this site  about this, but the OP was asking for his 2006 (if memory serves), so would those answers be applicable to vintage models as well?

 

I know this was a long read, so thank you to all who made it to the bottom, and thanks in advance for any information and answers offered. 

(I did try to add photos, but I'm on my phone and I dont know how to resize them to the acceptable size. )

Edited July 24, 2021 by Crackerbear
Steve trying to keep it readable

[Jalex]

I remember this video from Normans rare guitars a couple of years ago. This is a 68' with the screwed down pickguard:

as someone who owns a 63' Hummingbird which was in need of repair. I would recommend finding a good luthier/repairman to look it over and do any necessary repairs.

 

 

[jedzep]

From what I'm reading, I don't think it can be played here and now, but there are remarkable 'mechanics' out there that can put the brace and thus, the top, back in order to attain some semblance of the geometry you need to play.  Lowering string gauge is probably necessary. I play 13s tuned down a step D-D anyway, which is 30 pounds of pull less than 12s in standard tuning.

[RBSinTo]

Crackerbear,

The very best help you can give your friend is to insist that he take the guitar, and all of the questions and concerns to a qualified Luthier. 

RBSinTo

[bobouz]

The guitar needs to assessed in-hand re it’s structural integrity.  Aside from that, I would add that the highest probability is that it was manufactured in 1968.

[fortyearspickn]

Being in an unventilated shed for years in North Carolina, coupled with the damage and glazing of the finish you describe, suggest:  You should not try stringing it up no matter how many steps down, you should not worry about the impact on value if refinished, you should not worry about insuring it and, as has been noted above, only a luthier can salvage it.  NOT a 'guitar technician'.   The neck may be screwed up as well, and all these things have to be 'brought up to code' before strings, re-finishing and insurance questions can be addressed. And those can be best addressed by a luthier who has addressed the bigger issues.  G'Luck.  

[zombywoof]

 I have seen 1969 HBs with a screwed down pickguard.   I would expect a '69 HB though to have a belly down rather than a belly up bridge.  A '69 would also have  a 1 11/16" nut as opposed to the 1 5/8" nut. The problem is it is not like Gibson changed specs at the stroke of midnight on Jan. 1 so more often as not there will be a transition period where older and new specs are mixed together.  Basically a mish-mash of specs. 

As to repairs a full inspection by somebody who knows what they are doing is obviously needed.  I do know from experience something like a brace fix other than regluing a loose one may involve removal of the back.  

Edited July 24, 2021 by zombywoof