What's the deal with ABR-1 bridges?

[PP_CS336]

I have to ask myself and many of you have probably done the same, What is the deal with Gibson (and even Epiphone, but I'm mainly

concerned with Gibson on this thread) using ABR-1 bridges on their electric guitars? I mean, come on...we all pay a pretty penney

for many of their electric guitars, and they still use these antiquated ABR-1 bridges. And the stupid retaining wire. I know it must have served a purpose in it's day, but for most intents and purposes it just causes the bridge to rattle and in some cases (like mine) affects the accurate vibration of the string and sometimes the intonation. I have a CS-336. I know they want to give it that vintage austerity, but come on, the guitar was introduced in 2001. You mean to tell me on such a mint guitar Gibson couldn't supply a better bridge? This is suppose to be Custom Shop, not bin leftovers.

 

Does anyone know how to deal with this bridge's problems? Or is there maybe a viable replacement? Please respond if you know if anything can be done to help. Thanks ahead of time...Paul

[duane v]

I have to ask myself and many of you have probably done the same, What is the deal with Gibson (and even Epiphone, but I'm mainly

concerned with Gibson on this thread) using ABR-1 bridges on their electric guitars? I mean, come on...we all pay a pretty penney

for many of their electric guitars, and they still use these antiquated ABR-1 bridges. And the stupid retaining wire. I know it must have served a purpose in it's day, but for most intents and purposes it just causes the bridge to rattle and in some cases (like mine) affects the accurate vibration of the string and sometimes the intonation. I have a CS-336. I know they want to give it that vintage austerity, but come on, the guitar was introduced in 2001. You mean to tell me on such a mint guitar Gibson couldn't supply a better bridge? This is suppose to be Custom Shop, not bin leftovers.

 

Does anyone know how to deal with this bridge's problems? Or is there maybe a viable replacement? Please respond if you know if anything can be done to help. Thanks ahead of time...Paul

 

I prefer the ABR1 over every other TOM bridge. My guitars that have the ABR1 noticeably resonates more. I think it has to do with the post going directly into the wood.

 

I've read about players having them cave in, which would bother me. What I did on my LPJ is I added two adjustment wheels to the post and bottomed them out against the guitar body for stability. My Epi Casino is the same way.

[duane v]

One more thing, in my experience the ABR1 works better with heavier gauge string sets.... 10's and higher

[Andre S]

I prefer how the ABR-1 looks in comparison to the Nashville....and from what I have heard, they work fine.

 

AFAIK there are ABR models without the retaining wire.

[badbluesplayer]

Faber and Tonepros make replacements without the wire. I have a Tonepros. I do like Duane with the extra thumbwheels cranked down against the top of the guitar. I also installed longer posts - the factory posts only go about 1/2" into the top of the guitar, and when the plywood top is almost 1/4" thick, that doesn't leave much post to seat into the center block.

[zigzag]

Maybe this will help.

 

Bridge work

[pippy]

The retaining wire was added to stop any possibility of a bridge saddle falling off the instrument if a string snapped.

 

Nashville bridges 'improved' this aspect of design.

 

P.

[vincentw]

The best sounding bridge IMHO, which is not a bridge at all, and is the most antiquated design -- is the wraparound. This is the mojo when it comes to tone. '54 Goldtop all the way.

[PP_CS336]

I prefer the ABR1 over every other TOM bridge. My guitars that have the ABR1 noticeably resonates more. I think it has to do with the post going directly into the wood.

 

I've read about players having them cave in, which would bother me. What I did on my LPJ is I added two adjustment wheels to the post and bottomed them out against the guitar body for stability. My Epi Casino is the same way.

 

Edit...Duane V. also said, One more thing, in my experience the ABR1 works better with heavier gauge string sets.... 10's and higher

 

Duane, thanks for your reply. I fooled around with it a bit today and got it to respond better. BTW I am using .010-.046 strings. I like to

bend so I really don't like going any heavier. I replaced the ABR-1 on my Epi Sheraton II in March '09 with an TonePro TOM bridge and it seems

to work better. However the screws used to sink the bridge into the guitar are totally different than the Gibson ABR-1. Hopefully the ABR-1

on my CS-336 won't get too temperamental on me, as I'd like to keep the guitar original, if I can do so.

[PP_CS336]

The retaining wire was added to stop any possibility of a bridge saddle falling off the instrument if a string snapped.

 

Nashville bridges 'improved' this aspect of design.

 

P.

 

Pippy, yeh, but the Nashville bridge has a different screwing interface to the guitar and then there'd have to be routing and all that. That would

take away the original look of the guitar and if not done right could make things a hell of a lot worse. Thanks for your replay, though...Paul

[Andre S]

The best sounding bridge IMHO, which is not a bridge at all, and is the most antiquated design -- is the wraparound. This is the mojo when it comes to tone. '54 Goldtop all the way.

 

Oh yea! I wish that you could get a SG Classic from Gibson with a wraparound...looks much cooler too, vintage.

[PP_CS336]

Maybe this will help.

 

Bridge work

 

Zigzag, thanks so much for giving me the link to your bridge problem on you ES-335 (also having the ABR-1 Bridge). The guy, sok66, seemed to be

quite versed in the ABR-1 and the TonePros replacement, AVRII, that he was suggesting. I see you went with that and are very happy. What did

the AVRII bridge cost you, may I ask? Just in case I have to go that route eventually. Thanks! :)

[Thundergod]

I've never had problems with ABR or TOM bridges. Never. There are other designs that acording to some "work wonders" but they just don't look right on a gibby. I have a couple of schaller bridges that not only allow you to set up lenght but also string separation... they are good and all but I wouldn't put 'em on my gibbies.

 

If it bothers you beyond measure, then there are lots of alternative products in the market, I kind of agree with you, gibsons are expensive intruments and they should at least give the option of a different bridge (hell, same goes for fender and that stupid strat bridge, not to mention the "historically correct" and "original" 3 saddle tele bridge, which I just hate and have changed in all the fenders I've owned).