Guitar / Luthier Tools and Secret Tips for Cheapskates!

[animalfarm]

How to "TIGHTEN-UP" wobbly Tailpiece posts if you decide to raise them.

instead of having them tightened down all the way against the Guitar.

 

I like to raise mine a bit to decrease the String "Break Angle", less stress on string,

less chance of breakage. Ideally, the best tone and sustain are achieved with a good, solid,

TIGHT connection between the Post and the Wood Body.

 

If you raise the post, the threads on the post and in the bushing are NOT machined to

Military-Specs, and you'll get a bit of wobble, meaning no solid contact between Body Wood and Post.

Here's a way to get back that solid connection:

 

1. Drop a thin screw driver into the empty bushing so it touches the bottom at the wood.

Mark it at the top of the bushing. Now place Post against screw driver, and note distance

between mark and end of post. The odds are that the bushing hole is drilled slightly deeper

than the bushing is long, hence the need to drop the screwdriver in to get an actual depth

reading.

 

Now move the post away from the mark the exact distance you want to raise the Tailpiece.

The distance between the MARK and the post bottom is the SET SCREW length you want to buy.

(Better take the post with you to the Hardware Store, it may be METRIC, so you'll need to thread it

into a test nut at the hardware store.

 

2. I wanted to raise mine about 1/8" to 3/16", so I took my Post, test fitted on a METRIC nut (M-8), and

bought the length I needed (1/4" long). At that length I have just barely any set screw threads inside

the bushing, but it's solidly touching the wood. A longer set screw would raise the tailpiece TOO high:

 

 

3. Using Allen Wrench, thread SET SCREW into bushing until it makes firm contact with WOOD at bottom of hole.

(Dont Go Crazy, you'll end up forcing the bushing up, as if you were trying to remove it).

 

 

 

4. Both setscrews installed, and I now have SOLID Metal-to-Metal-to WOOD contact.

 

[RaSTuS]

^^^^^

 

Good one AF, handy little tip.

[Lefty Bill]

How to "TIGHTEN-UP" wobbly Tailpiece posts if you decide to raise them.

instead of having them tightened down all the way against the Guitar.

 

I like to raise mine a bit to decrease the String "Break Angle", less stress on string,

less chance of breakage. Ideally, the best tone and sustain are achieved with a good, solid,

TIGHT connection between the Post and the Wood Body.

 

If you raise the post, the threads on the post and in the bushing are NOT machined to

Military-Specs, and you'll get a bit of wobble, meaning no solid contact between Body Wood and Post.

Here's a way to get back that solid connection:

 

1. Drop a thin screw driver into the empty bushing so it touches the bottom at the wood.

Mark it at the top of the bushing. Now place Post against screw driver, and note distance

between mark and end of post. The odds are that the bushing hole is drilled slightly deeper

than the bushing is long, hence the need to drop the screwdriver in to get an actual depth

reading.

 

Now move the post away from the mark the exact distance you want to raise the Tailpiece.

The distance between the MARK and the post bottom is the SET SCREW length you want to buy.

(Better take the post with you to the Hardware Store, it may be METRIC, so you'll need to thread it

into a test nut at the hardware store.

 

2. I wanted to raise mine about 1/8" to 3/16", so I took my Post, test fitted on a METRIC nut (M-8), and

bought the length I needed (1/4" long). At that length I have just barely any set screw threads inside

the bushing, but it's solidly touching the wood. A longer set screw would raise the tailpiece TOO high:

 

3. Using Allen Wrench, thread SET SCREW into bushing until it makes firm contact with WOOD at bottom of hole.

(Dont Go Crazy, you'll end up forcing the bushing up, as if you were trying to remove it).

 

4. Both setscrews installed, and I now have SOLID Metal-to-Metal-to WOOD contact.

 

 

This is a good tip for getting two separate loosely-meshed parts to transfer the string vibrations to the body, while making the tailpiece fairly rigid (is sometimes also done for the bridge posts).

 

Many would-be-mating threads on generic parts from China, India and other locations are very poorly made these days. I have several somewhat precision machines from China, and a first reasonable step is to replace all the fasteners.

 

I noticed that on a couple of sets of generic bridge post bushings/anchors (the part that's pressed into the guitar body), that the internal threads only go about half-way through the length of the part.

If Epiphone and other makers start using this style of bushing, using a setscrew in the bottom of the hole may not be an option since there isn't enough thread in the lower portion of the hole (the setscrew will go part way, then just drop into the bottom of the hole).

Then, to lock the parts, it's likely that a separate nut will need to be added on top of the bushing.

 

I realize that machining threaded parts which will be chromed requires that dimensions need to be adjusted to prevent the parts from being over/or/undersized after the plating is applied (which generally means being plated more than once.. one for copper, and at least one more for nickel or chrome).

 

BTW, tightening chrome against chrome will often result in galling or peeling.. it's better to use beeswax, a small amount of Loctite (blue/medium hold, not red/semi-permanent), teflon tape or other intermediate material.

As long as the chrome parts aren't overtightened, the plating probably won't start moving around on top of the underlying softer copper layer, but I prefer beeswax as a prevention method.

 

Regards,

Bill

[bonzoboy]

For around $50 you can get a set of guitarist/luthier tools of pro quality that would work out much cheaper than buying them separately.Look for the Groovetech toolkit from CRUZ TOOLS they are really rugged and the only thing that I had to add was a pencil as a graphite source and a poultry skewer for poking stuck ball ends from getting stuck in Strat type tailpieces.

[Dennis G]

That reminded me of the #1 most valuable tip for owners of Bigsby-equipped guitars.

 

When changing strings (with a Bigsby,) you attach the strings at the bridge end like normal, then pull the string tight and clamp it to the neck with a capo. Lets you wind it onto the tuner like you normally would, no incredibly awkwardness from needing to keep tension on the string <_< .

You can also use those foam wedges that women use to apply makeup. They're about 1 1/2" long and go from about 1/4" to 5/8" or so. Once you have the string on the "pin" slide the wedge underneath. It holds nicely and leaves no marks.

[RaSTuS]

You can also use those foam wedges that women use to apply makeup. They're about 1 1/2" long and go from about 1/4" to 5/8" or so. Once you have the string on the "pin" slide the wedge underneath. It holds nicely and leaves no marks.

Or install one string at a time, like I do on all my other guitars.

[BlueEpiphone]

Again thanks to animalfarm and all the contributors.

 

I seem to remember on the Stew-Mac site they mentioned that on the traditional bridge/stopiece system you can thread your strings just the way they do on one piece wraparound bridges:

 

Into the FRONT (nut side) of the stop piece, THROUGH the stop piece, and OVER the top of the stop piece and on to bridge.

 

Has anyone verified this? This looks like the string will exit the stop piece nearly 1/4" inch higher.

[RaSTuS]

I seem to remember on the Stew-Mac site they mentioned that on the traditional bridge/stopiece system you can thread your strings just the way they do on one piece wraparound bridges:

 

Into the FRONT (nut side) of the stop piece, THROUGH the stop piece, and OVER the top of the stop piece and on to bridge.

 

Has anyone verified this? This looks like the string will exit the stop piece nearly 1/4" inch higher.

I've seen this done before, though I've never tried it myself.

[Dennis G]

Or install one string at a time, like I do on all my other guitars.

yeah, that's what I do, those wedges are only about 3/4"wide so it's perfect for holding one string.

[Dennis G]

And speaking of Harbor Freight, no need to pay big $'s for digital calipers:

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=digital+caliper

[Sjael]

Again thanks to animalfarm and all the contributors.

 

I seem to remember on the Stew-Mac site they mentioned that on the traditional bridge/stopiece system you can thread your strings just the way they do on one piece wraparound bridges:

 

Into the FRONT (nut side) of the stop piece, THROUGH the stop piece, and OVER the top of the stop piece and on to bridge.

 

Has anyone verified this? This looks like the string will exit the stop piece nearly 1/4" inch higher.

Top-wrapping?

 

 

I do it. Lets you wind the tailpiece right down to the body which supposedly gives you better sustain. I do it because it looks cool.

[animalfarm]

And speaking of Harbor Freight, no need to pay big $'s for digital calipers:

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=digital+caliper

 

This is GOOD information! Thanks!

[animalfarm]

HILLBILLY MICROMETER:

If you ever needed to compare sizes between two items, say, Tuner Shafts

and a Drill Bit, but don't have a micrometer, try this.

 

Use a Crescent Wrench!

 

Adjust the jaws to fit the first item, and then see how the other piece fits!

Also great for taking measurements of something round. Fit the wrench to the object,

and then lay the tool on a ruler and measure the gap. It's much more accurate!

 

 

HOME BUILT SANDING TUBE:

Here's a simple sanding block to make for sanding inside curves.

Cut two pieces of pvc pipe to the desired length. Take one piece and cut it lengthwise so

it's slightly more than half round.

 

 

Now,just wrap the paper around the 2/3 section, and snap it around the whole piece.

 

[bigneil]

I just discovered the existence of a rather cool guitar strap with its own built in straplock.

 

 

My link

[Memphis Soul]

Great thread guys!

[rolling56]

Nice thread, i recently started buying luthier tools from StewMac but lots of good ideas here to not have to buy all the ones i want from them.

[Whitmore Willy]

Use a credit card as a fret rocker.

 

 

Willy