antwhi2001 Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 I got an Indonesian LP Jnr limited edition in trans blue....very nice, they were on offer from a UK dealer at £99 in a range of colours(I think they still are...GAK). Here it is as recieved: Build quality was very good all round. I'm told that Indonesian Epis are now made by a big Samick factory there. Of course, I couldn't leave it alone. The stock pup was too harsh and I couldn't get a satisfactory range of sounds out of it. I think it's finished now...mods have included: 1. Replaced stock tuners with some low cost matt black Grover-copies by Jin Ho, more for cosmetic reasons than anything else; 2. Pointer washers fitted; 3. Replaced cap with a Sprague 22; 4. Moved bridge pup to neck position, and mounted it low down to reduce harshness. Fitted selector switch, wired pots as master vol, master tone; 5. Replaced bridge pup with a G+B alnico 5 humbucker (about 14k); 6. Fitted cheap black plastic pup covers; 7. Fitted PET mock inlay stickers on fret board - a quick, easy and cheap job, it will be interesting to see how well they wear. They feel ok to play on, barely noticeable. They look just like real inlays! ( http://www.inlaysticker.com/ ) 8. Replaced bridge with a low-cost wrap-around tune-o-matic. This guitar now plays and looks well, certainly giggable. I know that these are low-end models but I'm pleased with this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brad1 Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 You did a great job with the mods! You made a nice looking guitar look gorgeous. The sticker inlay looks especially nice with that color blue. And it certainly looks real from the pics. I couldn't tell the difference. Bravo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianh Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Had to do a double take when I saw that neck Anti, I thought maybe you went crazy with a Dremel! Anyway, nice job, nothing like a cheap junior turned into a work of art. Here are two I did: This one I picked up on Craigslist for $80 with hardshell case: Before: After: This one is the same run as yours I think: Before: After: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleWide Revival Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 Dang! You guys really turned those Juniors into some showstoppers! I'm trully impressed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueEpiphone Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 Excellent work antwhi2001. It looks striking. I'll be looking into those decal fret markers for my own Junior. They look great. The compliment from brianh means a lot because he has set the quality standard for Junior mods on this forum. Have you guys seen the new LP Special I's (not II's)being sold at Guitar Center? Wraparound bridge and two pups. They have a yellow one to boot. Keep up the mods and could we please see more projects? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musicmaker99 Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 Here's my Epi Junior double cut in tv yellow. No mods....but a bigsby might be in its future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musicmaker99 Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 Awesome, awesome, awesome!!!! Really spectacular job, everyone! I've never personally modded one inch of a guitar. Zip, Nada......but these posts are really inspiring me to personalize an axe or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueEpiphone Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 "Binding" done with auto parts pinstripe. The new electrics (since this picture was taken) include a Seymour Duncan '58 pup with coil split surgery and a double-pole, three-way mini-switch (normal series, one single coil, and humbucking parallel). I also dyed the fretboard to an ebony color using the darkest MinWax stain...5-6 coats. The paint is Krylon Ultra-Flat Black straight from the can. This is not the newest look (numerous other paint schemes since purchase last December). A new look is upcoming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antwhi2001 Posted May 30, 2011 Author Share Posted May 30, 2011 Thanks Brian, your red one was an inspiration to me. These are really good build quality, I'm surprised the UK dealer hasn't sold out of the various colours on offer, especially at £99. The neck and fretboard are far better than you expect in this price bracket. I'm assuming they come from the Samick plant, and they match the quality of the Korean Samick Epis from 10-11 years ago (I've owned 4 Epis from the Korean plant, with a 5th on the way...) The inlay stickers do look authentic, I can't get a good close-up pic I'm afraid, but they look real. The only worry I have with them is how good the adhesive is, but time will tell. I'm in between bands at the moment and when I'm not gigging I'm modding, sometimes I don't know when to stop... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianh Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 I'm assuming they come from the Samick plant, and they match the quality of the Korean Samick Epis from 10-11 years ago (I've owned 4 Epis from the Korean plant, with a 5th on the way...) Pretty sure these units are made in Indonesia. Serial numbers nonexistent: http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/56623-speaking-of-juniors-upgrades-complete/page__hl__%2Bmahogany+%2Bjunior+%2Bred__st__40 ...sometimes I don't know when to stop... You said it brotha... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antwhi2001 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 Mine was labelled as made in Indonesia; Epi don't have plant there as far as I know, but Samick have a big one which manufactures for several other brands. I've been shopping for a Les Paul Standard on e-bay, and someone is offering a 2010 Epi honeyburst plus top which he says is made in Indonesia - that's the first I've heard of Standards being made outside China recently. His asking price is a bit high, so I just bought a 2000 Samick instead....next project coming right up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanFoFyan Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 i had an epiphone ej-200 made in indonesia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueEpiphone Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 It's a new month....that means a new paint job for the "V-8" pinstripe, flat-black Epi. Junior. Here it is with fake flamed maple and sourburst paint. Not finished, of course (never will be). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hiflyer Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 Here's my modded '57 RI Junior. Modifications: - SD Antiquity pup; - CTS pots; - Luxe repro Bumblebee capacitor; - Gotoh aluminium lightweight bridge; - Gotoh white buttons vintage style tuners; - Replacement pickguard; - Gibson TRC and strap buttons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sjael Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 I'm not saying anything, but I will have something to post here within the next week or so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antwhi2001 Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 Problem time. Over the last few weeks I had been making minor adjustments to the truss rod and bridge height, and I had fairly good low action with just a little rattle on the bass E, which I could live with. I hadn't played it for a few days (because of my new Samick LP std) and when I picked it up I had rattling on all strings on the first couple of frets. The gap at the 12th seemed about the same, so I decided to try raising the bridge again. Then I could see problem...the bushes for the bridge post holes were leaning inwards, lowering the bridge height slightly. I removed the strings then the bridge. As well as the bushes leaning in, the posts that came with the cheap aftermarket bridge were also bending. Putting the original bridge back on wasn't an option, I'd sold it. I decided to try wedging the bushes and replacing the posts with more solid stock ones. The bass-side bush pulled out very easily - too easily. The treble side took a bit more effort. I wedged the holes with snapped off pieces of cocktail stick and wood glue, then tapped the bushes back in with a rubber hammer. The stock Epi posts are sturdier than the ones which bent, the fit of the bridge was a little tight, but they fitted with a little more tapping from the rubber hammer. It's back together now and settling down before I make adjustments. Hopefully that has sorted it...time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaSTuS Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Problem time. Over the last few weeks I had been making minor adjustments to the truss rod and bridge height, and I had fairly good low action with just a little rattle on the bass E, which I could live with. I hadn't played it for a few days (because of my new Samick LP std) and when I picked it up I had rattling on all strings on the first couple of frets. The gap at the 12th seemed about the same, so I decided to try raising the bridge again. Then I could see problem...the bushes for the bridge post holes were leaning inwards, lowering the bridge height slightly. I removed the strings then the bridge. As well as the bushes leaning in, the posts that came with the cheap aftermarket bridge were also bending. Putting the original bridge back on wasn't an option, I'd sold it. I decided to try wedging the bushes and replacing the posts with more solid stock ones. The bass-side bush pulled out very easily - too easily. The treble side took a bit more effort. I wedged the holes with snapped off pieces of cocktail stick and wood glue, then tapped the bushes back in with a rubber hammer. The stock Epi posts are sturdier than the ones which bent, the fit of the bridge was a little tight, but they fitted with a little more tapping from the rubber hammer. It's back together now and settling down before I make adjustments. Hopefully that has sorted it...time will tell. Wraparound bridges, aren't they wonderful, NOT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianh Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 I wedged the holes with snapped off pieces of cocktail stick and wood glue, then tapped the bushes back in with a rubber hammer. The stock Epi posts are sturdier than the ones which bent, the fit of the bridge was a little tight, but they fitted with a little more tapping from the rubber hammer. It's back together now and settling down before I make adjustments. Hopefully that has sorted it...time will tell. If that doesn't work, Tonepros makes locking studs that prevent bridge tilt and improve bridge-to-stud contact: http://tonepros.com/products.htm They also make an an excellent intonatable wraparound, although they are just as costly as an entire new Epi LP Jr: http://www.gpdusa.com/Guitar_Bridges-Tonepros_Wraparound.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sjael Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Wraparound bridges, aren't they wonderful, NOT. For lazy tinkerers like me, they are amazing. Only intonating two strings? Sign me up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianh Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Now that's a REAL electric guitar: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueEpiphone Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Now that's a REAL electric guitar: It took me a second to see the reference, brianh. That is for the most reserved of guitarists. Not enough slack for theatrics. Have you ever seen those engine block heaters used in cold climates? I have one of those AC plugs dangling out of my truck's front grill and younger (California) people always ask me "what is that plug for?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueEpiphone Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Here is a somewhat better pic of my Junior's airbrushed "woodgrain" effect. I'm finding out that airbrushing will require practice. The air compressor is homemade and built to be quiet due to the tiny mini-fridge compressor (sorry for removing your heart, Mini-Fridge). It is lubricated with mineral oil so there are no bad smells from the pump. Quiet and odorless means only one thing: I can paint INDOORS (if I use acrylics ...or become comfortable with dangerous fumes from lacquers ). The rest of the equipment came from a dilapidated Porter-Cable compressor (with failed electric motor). A pawn shop bargain at $20 (rare). I don't recommend using a mini-fridge compressor if you can locate a full-size fridge compressor. These are called "hermetic" compressors because they are sealed airtight (when used for cooling or refrigeration). They are pricey if you try to purchase them new. This air compressor is nearly SILENT. I know that any premium guitar should not have its tone compromised by the finish, but in my case its a cheap guitar and I like how easy it is to wash away the acrylic with a mild cleaner that will not affect the original and very HARD factory finish. That finish will require mechanical removal. So far none of the large assortment of chemicals I've used to remove my lacquers, enamels, shelf paper, sharpie scribblings, acid flux, rosin flux, 3M adhesives ..etc has managed to damage the factory black. If I decide to keep a design I'll protect it with an acrylic compatible clearcoat. Any suggestions will be appreciated and I don't mind if it comes in a rattle can as long as I can sand or polish it to a fine finish. If it is an airbrush formula I must state now that my $18 single-action airbrush won't handle anything over 40 psi. If I decide that airbrushing is the way to go I'll invest in better airbrushes. I'll post my future Junior paint finishes and I promise better, cleared pics and some improvement in my airbrushing. Right now the Junior is stripped of its green paint and awaiting a new "jacket". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefty Bill Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Here is a somewhat better pic of my Junior's airbrushed "woodgrain" effect. I'm finding out that airbrushing will require practice. (trimmed) That's an interesting look, even without the center split. There were a huge number of airbrush technique books commonly available in the late 70s and 80s. You might try a local library or used book store for some of those books, which were very informative IMO, with variuos techniques for shading and lots of unusual effects. Another technique, which was popular in the US in the 20s or 30s maybe, was manually adding different types of simulated woodgrain finishes over wood trimwork in homes and commercial buildings.. with paint products. Sounds odd, but it was one of those artistic style things that came and went. The examples that I've seen were typically dark-looking graining applied to hide light colored woodwork. Looking forward to your future work.. not that this example isn't good! Reagrds, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueEpiphone Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Thanks, Lefty Bill. Here's the latest paint job on the Junior: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefty Bill Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Thanks, Lefty Bill. Here's the latest paint job on the Junior: Nice going, Blue. I can see where it would be fairly easy and entertaining to get involved in painting patterns, shading and frosting with a lot of color combinations which would look great. Heh, I just happened to think of some of my fishing lures.. there are some wild and mild color combinations. The wilder ones have numerous very bright colors with lots of contrast, and the milder ones are more subtle colors just blended together. I recently got a Special II body to experiment with and I've been pondering the idea of spin art.. where paint is dribbled onto a spinning cardboard panel (a popular carnival attraction I remembered from years ago). Regards, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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