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Everything posted by Wmachine

  1. Yes, the proof is in the sound, but in all reality, the only apple to apples comparison is the different pups in the exact same guitar. Granted, in your case most of the difference *should* be the pups, but there are other factors too. FWIW, I think the 59 Classics are "better" LP pups than BBs, in my limited experience.
  2. NH does not mean Nickel Hardware. N is for nickel hardware, H is for a stop tail. I'm guessing the H is literally for hardtail.
  3. Yup. I got a killer deal on a 2015 and I really like it,
  4. It is hard to describe, but I know exactly what you are talking about. I have a cherry Lucille and even though it is spec'd as having a plain top, it does have some more subtle figuring in it. And it is almost 3-dimensional looking. I describe it as looking jewel-like, or glowing embers. So I understand your holographic description. Almost impossible to get in a photo. Here's a studio shot that does show the figuring, but not the "effect".
  5. My ES-335 Premiere Figured Faded Lightburst
  6. More specifically, it is not the wood grain, but the type of wood grain. You can still see the wood grain in "plain" tops. But "figured/flame" type have a distinctive pattern in the wood generally running 90 deg in the direction of the regular wood grain. More distinctive, generally more desirable, and more expensive. It is a characteristic of wood, regardless if it laminate or solid. The following is a pretty exact comparison. Faded light burst, and Figured Faded light burst.
  7. Just plain Firebird. If there were more to it, model name-wise, it would say so there. As you can see with the other Firebird models and years. http://legacy.gibson.com/Products/Electric-Guitars/Firebird.aspx
  8. Likewise here. When I had the chance to buy new 2015 Junior and Special DC each at sub $500 prices, I bought one of ea. (especially coming with hard anniversary cases). Both are great, and I think the Special with the 2 pups may be more versatile. But I really prefer the Junior for it's raw simplicity. It is a whole different guitar than a regular 2 humbucker LP. The Junior is in a league of its own. The lone volume control gives an amazing range of sound.
  9. That is a good point and should be considered. But the s/n (both the number itself and how it appears) is a good starting point for authentication. Not the end, but the beginning. That is a process of elimination, and often will reveal that it is not legit, case closed. No need to scrutinize further. If the s/n passes muster, then go into the other details. I'm not under the impressing that the cheap Chinese knock offs you see are being faked to the degree of having authentic s/n. Nor are all the details that exact. I don't think they intend to need close scrutiny. I don't think it has really been that long that the Chinese have been mass producing the knock offs. Before the internet, I'd think that all fakes were "hand made" modifications of existing guitars.
  10. There is no good reason not to post the s/ns other that to hid a fake. Quite the contrary, posting a pic of the s/n can help authentic it or show that it is a fake. I say a pic because actually seeing the s/n cab be most helpful. A lot more so than just posting the numbers. And if the op wants to cut to the chase, call or write Gibson with the s/ns and they will tell you what it is. If they are legit.
  11. I'll play along. A little more unusual one: 2015 Reissue '54 ES-175D Dark Burst
  12. Another thing with a new neck. With all due respect, Larsongs , even if it is a "good one" or "the one" (a valid and good point), I think a new neck can have an appreciable effect on it being a "good one" to the point of it possibly not being as good with a replaced neck. I think that is a risk to consider, too.
  13. Yes, that is pretty much it. But the Specials otherwise are not worth counterfeiting. If it is a Chinese knockoff, it will not be a very exact copy.
  14. It is just a letter. Sure it may imply a Junior, but it is not a Junior. Since Gibson does not define what it is, it is just another letter. Yes, like the M. Like Sgt. Pepper said we need 20 more variations.
  15. And that non-centered '64 RI shot is a studio pic! Actually, mine is quite centered: The Lucille is amazing. When you open the case, it looks like a jewel laying there. Feels great, plays great. It is hard not to be totally impressed with it. But here is the best kept secret about it: It is a high gain rock machine. ES models, though used for hard rock even, have limitations due to feedback at high volume and gain. But with the lack of F-holes and even the choice of pups lets this really come alive at those ES forbidden levels. Sure, we obviously think of it as a blues guitar. But crank it up to 11 and you'll see it go where no other ES model can go. Can't say how the EPI model would be, but I think it would be decent. I would never have bought a Gibson one, but I got mine at a mind-numbing price brand new from the CMI blowout years ago.
  16. The top wood for that guitar is called "plain" as opposed to figured, so you will generally see no figuring there. There are other cherry finishes that are much more transparent and show their beautiful plain tops more easily. Like my avitar pic guitar, a 2016 '64 ES-345 reissue (using a stock shot for clarity): That is a different cherry ("sixties cherry") and a different finish (VOS) I think my 2016 Lucille has the same Cherry color and finish as yours. I think it is less transparent. It does have subtle figuring in the wood, though it is not spec'd as a figured top. Much harder see from a distance and even harder to photograph. In person it looks like glowing embers. Again, a stock photo for clarity. But like you say, even the stock photos don't bring out all of the beauty.
  17. There are various s/ns that are not covered by that number search (like ME and some of the reissues), so that doesn't mean Gibson never heard of it or it is not legit. Will take some investigation. I would start by calling or writing Gibson and go from there.
  18. You said it is a great guitar. Isn't that what it is all about? Is this really that important? It appears to me that everything should be able to be touched up. I would never ever return a "good one" like you say you have for insignificant cosmetics. But that is not a typical forum response. Play that bad boy and stop being distracted by the little things, including forum grumblings.
  19. I think it is a shame that it is "killing" you. It looks great. Personally, I think it gives it a very subtle unusual touch. I would hate to be that sensitive to something that is insignificantly cosmetic. I think you would be doing yourself a huge favor if you could learn to ignore all the forum hype on cosmetics, and just dig in and enjoy playing it as intended. Cosmetics are a never ending diversion that can only get in your way, drive you crazy, and keep you from playing and enjoying.
  20. I'd contact Gibson. They will still have the specs on it regardless of origin. But Gibson is becoming less and less forthcoming with the amount of detail in the specs they give, onsite and otherwise. So you still may not get that level of detail, but I'd still ask. Edit: posted same time as answer
  21. Just because you don't agree with me (which I couldn't care less about), I'm no less entitled to my POV here than you are, so stop trying to dictate what others say.
  22. A 2020 made in Nashville ES model will come with a COA only if it is a Custom Shop model. If it is a Gibson USA model, it will not come with a COA, just like all other Gibson USA models.
  23. Wmachine


    All Memphis ES guitars should have come with COAs. Thus the OP question of what they are doing now that they are made in Nashville. The answer from Gibson, though not as complete as it could be, pretty much confirms what I said in my last post. The Gibson USA ES models will not have them. No regular Gibson USA model come with them. Presume Gibson Custom Shop models will continue to have them same as before.
  24. If you insist, as is your right for it to be flawless, then by all means send it back. Done, end of story. But It look like you're will to consider options. I would think this should be about what you end up with, not what you start with. Once again, the knee-jerk chest beating "I'm offended, send it back!" reaction may not be the best in the long run. ALWAYS, the first thing I would do is determine whether it is a "good one" or not. Play it, and objectively evaluate it. What I would do would totally depend on this. It may actually be a great one, but so far it appears you're not past the obvious flaws. If it is a good one and the fretboard would clean up and you could live with the dings for the right price, then start to think of what deal would be acceptable to you. If it is not a good one, great! You have perfect reasons to send it back. That case design should never had made it to production. Another "What were they thinking moment". As much as I really like to have original cases, I would get another case for it regardless. So depending on what your feelings are on the case, negotiate accordingly. I doubt they would give you another case in any kind of a deal, so that may not be an option. The typical forum responses reveal that getting a cosmetically perfect guitar is far more important than getting a "good one". But that's not me. And to anyone who doesn't know what a "good one" is or means, I respectfully suggest they find out before they go guitar shopping. Unless they are buying it just to look at it..
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