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Guitar stand update


btoth76

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Hello!

 

Finally, I've managed to create a headstock for the last guitar stand I was making. This is how it turned out to be:

 

HPIM3812_zpsacb8b057.jpg

 

HPIM3806_zps7a657118.jpg

 

HPIM3808_zps35121c86.jpg

 

It's still not finished. Before I can wet-polish it, and start applying the laquer, I've to overcome a shortcoming of the desing. The curved vertical console is flexing under load. I have to reinforce it somehow. Do any of You have a suggestion for that, which would fit the theme as well?

 

Thank You in advance... Bence

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In use:

 

HPIM3857_zpsdb9ffd62.jpg

 

HPIM3844_zps18339a8b.jpg

 

HPIM3823_zpsbbcf3b12.jpg

 

HPIM3816_zps4a37b8e6.jpg

 

It is stable, and holds the instrument properly, but I am a bit concerned about the flexing of the backrest. I am afraid, it will snap.

 

Cheers... Bence

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I'd probably fabricate a brace in the same, serpentine, spirit for the back section wich could be affixed at the points it touches something like this;

 

(excuse the rough-and-ready mess!)

 

Standswirly_zps0e49a07a.jpg

 

P.

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Hello Valeriy and Pippy!

 

Thank You both for Your suggestions.

 

The problem with Your suggestion - Valeriy - that it has to be made from wood. I don't have any tools for metallurgical work.

 

Your suggestion Pippy is interesting though, but I don't want it to be over-decorated. It's already getting a bit too much. I am looking for a simpler solution. Although Your concept is great for a baseline.

 

Thank You! :)

 

Cheers... Bence

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Simpler? OK...

 

"Here's One I Made Earlier" - as the Blue Peter presenters used to say...

 

Standidea1_zps4b511e51.jpg

 

The curve at the top should be more elegant but I did it this way in the name of clarity...

P.

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Hello Dan!

 

Thank You for Your kind comment!

 

I'll do! As soon as this one is done, I'll apply clear nitro laquer to all of them at once. Then only the silk pads are left to be done. If I can borrow a sewing machine from someone, one of the ladies in the family will do them.

 

Cheers... Bence

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Looks really good. What variety wood was it made from? I don't know if you could make an 1/8" small clean rod that goes straight thru from the head to the tail look okay or now. You know like a truss rod that could be tightened on one end but not follow thru the serpentine. I could see it being part of the design maybe in a color that complemented. :-k

 

Good job anyway.

 

Aster

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Hello Aster1!

 

That would be a good idea too! A brass rod through the centerline...but I am afraid, there's no way I could drill the wood for that solution. It would be really nice, though!

 

I'll check with my neighbour, He has more sophisticated tools. A helpful guy, but a bit obsessed with conspiracy theories about shape-shifting reptilians... [scared]. So, I am not so happy being around Him these days. :D

 

By the way, - if I was told correctly - the wood is aspen.

 

Thanks... Bence

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Awesome work there man [thumbup] you certainly have skills

 

And for the back... Apart from what pippy said... All I can think of that could be done with simple tools is to get a thin sheet of metal and use a hack saw to cut around the shape.. and make it the same shape as the curved centre piece of wood.. Then just file the edges down a bit so they aren't sharp?

 

(or route a truss rod in the middle lol ;)

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cool looking stand........

 

You could get a length of metal rod and bend it in a "vine" look......maybe paint it flat black so it doesn't take away from the look of the wood.

 

Nice Project!

 

NHTom

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Hello NHTom!

 

Thank You! [thumbup]

 

The same was suggested by Valeriy, but - unfortunately - I don't have the tools for such work. What made me think is Aster1's solution, but I don't know yet how I could do that. Probably the version Pippy came up with will is the most convenient solution.

 

Cheers... Bence

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Guest Farnsbarns

Hmmm, really what you have here is a design flaw and the reason is that form went before function in your original thinking. I hope you're not offended by that, there's no other way to say it other than straight.

 

 

The only obvious fix I can see that can be done in wood, with simple tools is to run 2 lengths of dowel from the ends of either side of the neck cradle to the rear most points at the bottom, thus triangulating the structure and making it rigid. Ain't gonna be pretty though.

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The only obvious fix I can see that can be done in wood, with simple tools is to run 2 lengths of dowel from the ends of either side of the neck cradle to the rear most points at the bottom, thus triangulating the structure and making it rigid.

Hmm.....

 

I disagree, Farns.

 

Fixing from a point half-way up the back to the base will provide a stronger, better balanced solution.

Nor would two supports be required as one properly positioned brace of sufficient 'weight' will already be triangulated by virtue of being connected to both the back and the base units.

 

A twin-rail system would, indeed, be stronger - as it could be made such that it is triangulated in three planes - but there is not going to be so much force applied that such a remedy is neccessary.

 

But, hey....

 

[smile]

 

P.

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Hmmm, really what you have here is a design flaw and the reason is that form went before function in your original thinking. I hope you're not offended by that, there's no other way to say it other than straight.

 

 

The only obvious fix I can see that can be done in wood, with simple tools is to run 2 lengths of dowel from the ends of either side of the neck cradle to the rear most points at the bottom, thus triangulating the structure and making it rigid. Ain't gonna be pretty though.

 

Hello Farnsbarns!

 

Of course, I don't mind! That's why I've posted it. I appreciate all the nice compliments, but it's the positive criticism that makes me go forward. :)

 

You're right! In this case, the focus fell on the form, and I didn't pay enough attention to the functionality - opposed to my previous designs. This one could've been turned out to be perfect too, if I had chosen another log with vertical grain pattern. Now it's kind of springy and I don't have a clue how much tensile strenght the aspen material has in this shape. One solution might be to create a rough replica of this vine-shaped console and test it (well, break it).

 

If I find it strong enough to hold a Norlin LP - I might leave it as it is. It bends back between 1-2 centimetres measured at the upper end.

 

Thank You... Bence

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bence,

 

If you like the truss rod idea, and you can't line bore that (would take a long bit) here's how I'd install. Just like on a guitar neck, set you up a "jig" out of straight hardwood or a metal bar as a straight edge. Take a router with an 1/8" flat cutter and slot the back top to bottom. Table saw a matching piece of wood to the 1/8" dimension and cut to size to "fill" the slot with the "truss rod" in it first. Fit it tight & glue, sand & finish.

 

Just like a guitar neck under the fretboard. Big, bang, boom and it's done. (that is if you have a router to use). [biggrin] You won't really need to tighten it much I wouldn't think. Just enough to take the back bend "relief" out of the equation.

 

I think farns is correct with the notion that completing a triangle with the sole brace top-bottom would be the strongest and do think a simple straight rod on that could stay in tune with the form of the serpent if done correctly. Wouldn't really take much for that to work either and doesn't have to be a 2x4 for strength for sure!! Simple, stiff rod would all but disappear going down from the top to the back.

 

Aster

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Guest Farnsbarns

Ahhh, if you cut off most of the neck cradle on one side and extend the other round so it becomes a "side loader" you could run a support brace down the front.

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Hehe! Thanks for the suggestions. :) I'll make something rather simple. This weekend will be a long one, with the monday off, so I'll have the time to experiment.

 

Cheers... Bence

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