Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

NEED HELP! Save my R9, About the Truss Rod


suncrimson

Recommended Posts

i'm not sure that I understand your phrasing' date=' but don't we LOOSEN for an up bow, or "hump" (center of neck high) and tighten for a down bow (center of neck low)?[/quote']

its the other way around. loosen to have more relief(lower center of neck) and tighten for less relief.

 

as i said before and i'll say it again, when trying to tighten the truss rod to straighten or reduce the relief of the neck, you should DETUNE/SLACKEN the strings. and then tune it again to pitch after adjusting and measure the relief. this way the truss rod has less counterforce to react thus you only need small adjustments. when tightening the TR with the strings in tune, you will need more turns because of the tension of the strings that the TR needs to counteract. so thats why in some cases, you will run out of thread.

BTW, this only applies when tightening the TR. when loosening, you can adjust it with the strings in tune.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its the other way around. loosen to have more relief(lower center of neck) and tighten for less relief.

 

as i said before and i'll say it again' date=' when trying to tighten the truss rod to straighten or reduce the relief of the neck, you should DETUNE/SLACKEN the strings. and then tune it again to pitch after adjusting and measure the relief. this way the truss rod has less counterforce to react thus you only need small adjustments. when tightening the TR with the strings in tune, you will need more turns because of the tension of the strings that the TR needs to counteract. so thats why in some cases, you will run out of thread.

BTW, this only applies when tightening the TR. when loosening, you can adjust it with the strings in tune.[/quote'] that's not exactly correct. the number of turns you need is the same whether you adjust the rod with the strings on or not. The truss rod tension needs to counteract the string tension. This is only affected by changing the string guage.

 

what taking the strings off DOES do is releases tension from the neck, so turning the nut is easier, and puts less wear on the threads, and makes it less a possibility that you'll strip the nut. Gibson truss rods use a brass nut on a steel rod, not exactly a combination that is meant for constant adjustment under load.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that's not exactly correct. the number of turns you need is the same whether you adjust the rod with the strings on or not. The truss rod tension needs to counteract the string tension. This is only affected by changing the string guage.

 

what taking the strings off DOES do is releases tension from the neck' date=' so turning the nut is easier, and puts less wear on the threads, and makes it less a possibility that you'll strip the nut. Gibson truss rods use a brass nut on a steel rod, not exactly a combination that is meant for constant adjustment under load.

[/quote']

theoretically, you are right but since the neck is wood and the TR is metal and depending on the tolerances and how the TR is installed theres still a bit of difference on the turns. but regardless, IMO, it is still a good idea to slacken/release the tension of the strings when tightening the TR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The truss rod's purpose is to counteract string tension. If it's necessary to make an adjustment, it's less stress on the rod / thread / nut if string tension is reduced.

 

When tightening the nut with strings tensioned, you are asking the rod to work harder against those string forces - why not make it easy ? When undoing the nut to give greater relief (with strings tuned to normal pitch), the truss rod is still under tension - still in the process of fighting those string forces. By de-tuning, the rod settles into a relaxed state and the nut will turn easier.

 

When making truss rod adjustments to guitars with a trem, the easiest way is to de-tune with the arm.

 

Some manufacturer's advice is to adjust the rod with strings at full tension. I think for a guitar with light gauge strings and needing only a minor tweak, this is acceptable. However, for the most part (certainly for older / more valuable guitars), I prefer a little mechanical sympathy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think for a guitar with light gauge strings and needing only a minor tweak' date=' this is acceptable. However, for the most part (certainly for older / more valuable guitars), I prefer a little mechanical sympathy. [/quote']

 

 

I agree!

 

And as AXE said: thread closed!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh no you don't....you can not close this thread with out a moral to the story...:-

 

suggestions would/could be...

 

don't thread on me

 

seek out a qualified doc for neck pain

 

pressure is good, stress is bad

 

one good turn deserves another

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...