Opinions and input needed! (TWANG, you especially)

[Guest icantbuyafender]

So im very interested in modding my dot studio by adding a tone and volume control, making it bridge and neck volume and tone controls like a standard ES-335 and DOT.

 

The grolsh beer washers are "ear marks" for the knob placement.

 

Advice? Tips?

 

I have a fine bit to use with my dremmel, and a standard drill to widen the initial holes little by little.

 

 

Anything I need to consider?

[Ron G]

I'm pretty sure one of your prospective locations is over solid wood (the center block). Take a look at the locations on a "regular" Dot. Liberal use of masking tape will help prevent marring the finish - just don't leave it on too long, or it'll become difficult to get off cleanly.

[pohatu771]

Your best choice is switching the switch and (stock) volume knob, and installing the other two in a more "traditional" location.

[peeper]

I agree that placement won't work out the best. Also, if you cross the f hole how you gonna hide the wiring harness?

 

As far as using a hand drill..... DON"T!!! I wouldn't use the dremel here either.

I would use a drill press to drill the initial holes, securing the guitar as a did it, then use a reamer to size them right. Less chances of messing up the top that way.

The stock locations kinda screw up putting more controls there and keeping it aesthetically pleasing. Compare the locations of a DOT and your DOT studio. See what I mean?

If it were me here's what I'd do. Concentric pots. You could do tone and volume for one pickup in one location! And no drilling and messing up the looks of your axe. (I just don't know where to place the extra controls without it looking clobbered together by a retard)

[deflepfan]

Liberal use of masking tape will help prevent marring the finish - just don't leave it on too long' date=' or it'll become difficult to get off cleanly.[/quote']

Ron is dead on - use the tape to keep the surrounding finish as flawless as possible. 3M has a painters tape that can be left on for 60 days (Scotch Blue Painters Tape for Delicate Surfaces) before causing any damage, and their Scotch Blue Painters Tape for Multi Surfaces can be left on for two weeks. Each product has a different adhesive and different adhering strength. I'd recommend the Multi Surface tape as it had good adherence and will hold up to the dremel better , but the Delicate will work to, it's just a less strong adhesive. I do furiniture refinishing as a hobby and have found these tapes to be the best. Of course they run a bit higher that others, but you would only need a small roll, couple of bucks.

[charlie brown]

Your best choice is switching the switch and (stock) volume knob' date=' and installing the other two in a more "traditional" location.[/quote']

 

+1

 

CB

[Ron G]

Just an aside: When I got my Dot Studio, I was nearly certain that I'd do the same mod. I mean, how can a 2-pickup guitar only have 1 set of pots???!!! After adjusting the pickup (GFS Mean 90s) heights for better balance, I've become very fond of the stock control setup. Simplicity rules!

[vomer]

Also' date=' if you cross the f hole how you gonna hide the wiring harness?

[/quote']

 

Don't hide it, use braided cable and show it off! I'll try to get a photo of my Sheraton up later, mrs. v. is trying to get me to go online shopping for baby now.

[Vic Flick]

So im very interested in modding my dot studio by adding a tone and volume control' date=' making it bridge and neck volume and tone controls like a standard ES-335 and DOT.

 

The grolsh beer washers are "ear marks" for the knob placement.

 

Advice? Tips?

[/quote']

 

Don't do it. Ron's correct about the center block, and the other is perilously close to the f-hole. One tiny slip or bit binding in the wood and you'll have an f'd hole!!! Plus the knob will look silly that close to the f-hole.

 

If you must mutilate this guitar, here's what I would do. Move the toggle to the lower horn and put a second volume (or tone if you prefer) where the toggle use to be. Something like this:

 

[TWANG]

Here's mine. You can see for yourself how it looks and how handy they are in this placement.

 

 

 

Now..here's how I did it.

I marked the postions after measuring carefully.

I put masking tape over each spot where a new hole would be made.

 

I used a small drill bit.. these bits have a large end for fitting in the drill chuck.. very handy for hand spinning!

and I drilled the first hole by hand.. it cuts right through the wood... masking tape helps in case you slip.. no scratches. and it holds the wood around the hole a bit for chipping protection..

then I went to a larger bit.. still hand spun.

 

it's very easy.. and slow and safe.. the wood cuts nice.

and so on progressively bigger bits.. when I got to 1/4' bit.. I used a needle file.. to bevel the top edge so it was wider than the hole..before going to the next bit..

this way. if the bit dug into the wood and started to chip.. it wouldn't hurt the outside finish wood. it couldn't. it was already smoothly filed down.

 

I repeated this needle filing and drill bit twisting until a pot would fit in from the top.

Not a single scratch or chip..and worth all the steps for the sake of the cosmetic perfection and perfect fit for the pot shaft.

 

As you can see I also added a series/parallel switch between them.

This was my first time with this particular guitar. I wanted to take NO chances on surprises..

and it came out beautiful. Plenty of room between all knobs and switches.. easy to use. well balanced look and I'm very happy with it.

 

You could drill with a drill.. you could use your dremel, too.. but I went by touch to be sure and I don't regret a little extra effort for good results.

 

You appear to be over the center wood on your layout as everyone is saying. So you'll have to change that.

 

Plus side.. very easy wood to cut.. down side.. will tend to chip on top if you're not careful..

I used the needle file quite a bit to ensure it would come out nice..

yeah, took longer. big deal. I prefer more effort to bad results, error, etc.

On the guitar.. holding it and playing it... it's really nice this way.. easy to use!

[brianh]

Don't do it. Ron's correct about the center block' date=' and the other is perilously close to the f-hole. One tiny slip or bit binding in the wood and you'll have an f'd hole!!! Plus the knob will look silly that close to the f-hole.

 

If you must mutilate this guitar, here's what I would do. Move the toggle to the lower horn and put a second volume (or tone if you prefer) where the toggle use to be. Something like this:

 

[img']http://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pics/products/0/5/5/275055.jpg[/img]

 

I really like the symmetry of this arrangement.

 

And it get my GAS going for a Zephyr Blues Deluxe again.

 

Thanks a ton, Jerry!

[TWANG]

He could move his switch to the cutaway area.. and put three pots in a row like that.. it's easily doable on the dot studio.

you could also go gretsch and put a master volume where the zephrs is..

 

nice thing about those studio dots is the big f holes. getting the pots in is a breeze.

[Guest icantbuyafender]

I agree that placement won't work out the best. Also' date=' if you cross the f hole how you gonna hide the wiring harness?

 

As far as using a hand drill..... DON"T!!! I wouldn't use the dremel here either.

I would use a drill press to drill the initial holes, securing the guitar as a did it, then use a reamer to size them right. Less chances of messing up the top that way.

The stock locations kinda screw up putting more controls there and keeping it aesthetically pleasing. Compare the locations of a DOT and your DOT studio. See what I mean?

If it were me here's what I'd do. Concentric pots. You could do tone and volume for one pickup in one location! And no drilling and messing up the looks of your axe. (I just don't know where to place the extra controls without it looking clobbered together by a retard)

[/quote']

 

 

Musikron, buddy, I knew there was a reason we keep you around!

 

Thats a brilliant idea. Its either concentric or swapping the switch and volume to have more

potential knob room. For now, I'll see how the concentric wiring works...

 

Thanks guys!

[Guest icantbuyafender]

Here's mine. You can see for yourself how it looks and how handy they are in this placement.

 

 

 

Now..here's how I did it.

I marked the postions after measuring carefully.

I put masking tape over each spot where a new hole would be made.

 

I used a small drill bit.. these bits have a large end for fitting in the drill chuck.. very handy for hand spinning!

and I drilled the first hole by hand.. it cuts right through the wood... masking tape helps in case you slip.. no scratches. and it holds the wood around the hole a bit for chipping protection..

then I went to a larger bit.. still hand spun.

 

it's very easy.. and slow and safe.. the wood cuts nice.

and so on progressively bigger bits.. when I got to 1/4' bit.. I used a needle file.. to bevel the top edge so it was wider than the hole..before going to the next bit..

this way. if the bit dug into the wood and started to chip.. it wouldn't hurt the outside finish wood. it couldn't. it was already smoothly filed down.

 

I repeated this needle filing and drill bit twisting until a pot would fit in from the top.

Not a single scratch or chip..and worth all the steps for the sake of the cosmetic perfection and perfect fit for the pot shaft.

 

As you can see I also added a series/parallel switch between them.

This was my first time with this particular guitar. I wanted to take NO chances on surprises..

and it came out beautiful. Plenty of room between all knobs and switches.. easy to use. well balanced look and I'm very happy with it.

 

You could drill with a drill.. you could use your dremel' date=' too.. but I went by touch to be sure and I don't regret a little extra effort for good results.

 

You appear to be over the center wood on your layout as everyone is saying. So you'll have to change that.

 

Plus side.. very easy wood to cut.. down side.. will tend to chip on top if you're not careful..

I used the needle file quite a bit to ensure it would come out nice..

yeah, took longer. big deal. I prefer more effort to bad results, error, etc.

On the guitar.. holding it and playing it... it's really nice this way.. easy to use!

 

 

[/quote']

 

 

 

ok, TWANG, I like your way, but I'd need to send you my pickguard for it to get filed down. Its the longer style pickguard so it takes room away from potential knob space.

[Guest icantbuyafender]

Just decided to throw some chrome tulip button PING tuners on.

 

and the rest is chrome parts from the parts drawer. Using a wrap on the tailpiece gives it such an easy to play feel.

 

The bridge is a GFS tuneomatic and it rocks.

 

the strings are so slinky and easy to play my hands wont stop!

 

this is modification enough for me.

 

I just was tired of the dreary blackout hardware.

 

 

 

like?

[TWANG]

I'll modify your guard for free if you pay shipping.

And I have Norvus plastic polish here so I'll go over it with that, too.

I noticed that long guard, too. Good idea, just shorten it up a bit.

[Guest icantbuyafender]

I'll modify your guard for free if you pay shipping.

And I have Norvus plastic polish here so I'll go over it with that' date=' too.

I noticed that long guard, too. Good idea, just shorten it up a bit.

[/quote']

 

 

awesome

 

sometime after the holiday willl be good

 

[pohatu771]

I agree about the black hardware - if it weren't for that, I probably would have bought a Dot Studio a while ago. Once I replaced the hardware, it wouldn't have been a bargain anymore.

[TWANG]

my feelings too.. but I combined the black with the chrome.. so it sort of went with the black mounting rings and chrome pup covers..

then I think the graph tech black saddles in the bridge really set that off.

I also think the guard material brightened it up nicely without screwing anything up. but that red tort is purely a matter of taste.

nobody likes my little acoustic guitar shaped switch plate.. sob. whimper.

but I do.

[peeper]

nobody likes my little acoustic guitar shaped switch plate.. sob. whimper.

but I do.

I was wondering what the hell that was! In one pic its round, in the next....melted???? LOL

I dig it.

So you have fun doing pickguards huh? I hate it myself and avoid it like the plague. But from time to time ya gotta do what ya gotta do. So now you know I hate making pickguards. Whats the bane of your existence?

 

p.s. I also hate doing electronics on 335 style guitars, so much that I charge extra for it. That and cause it takes more time.

[TWANG]

I like the guards.. at least, when I'm done.

The thing is the way I do them it does eat time.. so sometimes I'll get a little behind on shipping.

But when I get a new shape or new color.. I like it again.

I'd say it's the very least profitable thing I do for sure. But then.. profit has to be measured in part by good will.. and I get a lot of

people willing to pass my name around. Plus I don't make any enemys. well.. one! but let's not talk about him.

 

I have the wiring down.. I make hard cards for them all now. and keep a template handy for each guitar layout.

I'm starting a new idea which is to drill a center hole in the card so I can mount it up and spin it while I'm working on it.

and then I print out the layout or draw the wiring connections the user has to do by hand.. so it's right under his nose when he goes to install.

 

Here's an idea. you probably already use it.. but those little three or four inch plastic tie downs.. they loop and catch so you can draw them tight.. those work really well on 335s to keep that wiring solid and stable.. really handy with sheratons or anywhere in a semi hollow where you want to keep wires away from each other and make the harness stiffer. And cheap!

 

I do four pot one three way and output jack for 45.00 with premium parts and wired on a card with instructions.

Which is way terrible cheap and I should raise the price. some guys get 90.00 for that.

 

I think the bane I suffer is the variety.. it's sometimes really hard to walk away from an amp build to do a guard or harness or guitar.. the going back and forth when it's not busy is actually nice. but when you get a lot to do .. confusing.

 

But the thing that absoluetly drives me bats completely.. paint.

I can do a clear coat for crying out loud? why can't I do a color?

argh!

TWANG

[Guest icantbuyafender]

I agree about the black hardware - if it weren't for that' date=' I probably would have bought a Dot Studio a while ago. Once I replaced the hardware, it wouldn't have been a bargain anymore.[/quote']

 

 

Yeah if i ever get the itch for black hardware itd have to be on a white guitar.

 

Not on a hollowbody.

 

Toooooo depressing since the finish is a dark brown stain... the black just depressed me.

 

Now the chrome tuners and hardware totally make me enjoy it.

 

These PING tuners were worth the money, I'll tell ya.

 

I like em better than the gibson rotomatic grovers with keystone buttons. And they look the same without the big hefty weight and neck dive.

[peeper]

TWANG,

The reason I hate 335s is the process of wrestling the harness into the guitar. PITA. I do use templates for wiring them tho' as well as lots of shrink tubing. I use zip ties if its a quick and dirty job or just replacing a component, but if I am doing a complete re wire, everything gets shrinkwrapped.

I'm glad you find the guards rewarding, I never really get that sense of accomplishment with them, just glad there over. I guess I like problem solving, and there is little to be found there, you just do it. Its one of the few times my job feels like "work".

ETA, your turn around in a PM if you want, I may outsource next time a need a new guard.

[TWANG]

I take the drag out of guards by trying to make them as perfect as possible. really tight fit, etc.

works for me!

I hate sheraton rewiring. but the dots are pretty easy with those big f holes. esp dot studios as all is close.

Luckily. I mostly send out kits and don't have to do them myself!

 

be glad to make you a guard anytime!

 

TWANG