Got a favorite multimeter?

[teegar]

Just curious, I'm leaning towards a Triplett 9007, but I really have no experience with these things, since I won't be using it professionally I'd just like to get one that is decent quality and will last a while for irregular use. A beeping continuity tester is a plus. Anybody care to suggest a must-have multi?

 

Thanks as always for your thoughts.

[animalfarm]

I bought several "CEN-TECH" multimeters from

Harbor Freight for $1.99 ea. I think they're up to

$2.99 now, no continuity "beep", though. Other than that,

well worth the $$$.

[duane v]

Snap-on

[jcwillow777]

I bought several "CEN-TECH" multimeters from

Harbor Freight for $1.99 ea. I think they're up to

$2.99 now' date=' no continuity "beep", though. Other than that,

well worth the $$$.[/quote']

 

+1. They have them on sale all the time, and for what I do they are good enough.

[brianh]

I have three - a Fluke Model 23 I used to use for bench and field work and never use anymore, a nice medium-sized one I got as a trade show giveaway which I use a lot, and a little one I use to test batteries from Sears for less than $10.

 

I'd say go with the Habor Freight units and buy 2 (one for backup), or just go to Sears, Home Depot, Lowes, ACE or anywhere else and get one with continuity tone. They're pretty cheap these days...

[duane v]

Ask Air Force PMEL or Intel Metrology Labs why they only buy FLUKE...... You cant even perform a true diagnostic on the Harbor Freight stuff.... And they don't come close to calibrating to spec.

[brianh]

Of course, but for checking pots, solder joints, or pickup resistance, a basic meter is fine.

 

Flukes start at $200 or so and were not talking about board-level troubleshooting here...

[duane v]

I wouldnt use one to test a dead AA battery[biggrin] ... but that's just me....

[Hungrycat]

The cheap one from Radio-Shack.

[teegar]

Yes, Fluke seems to have the best reputation as judged by web feedback, but the cheapest is about $130. It's the never-ending conundrum, you don't want to spend a mint for something you'll use very infrequently, but I've found through too many experiences that cheap tools are false economy. $50-$60 seems like my range, thus the Triplett idea.

 

Thanks for the feedback so far - Any other weigh-ins???

[duane v]

Yes' date=' Fluke seems to have the best reputation as judged by web feedback, but the cheapest is about $130. It's the never-ending conundrum, you don't want to spend a mint for something you'll use very infrequently, but I've found through too many experiences that cheap tools are false economy. $50-$60 seems like my range, thus the Triplett idea.

 

Thanks for the feedback so far - Any other weigh-ins???[/quote']

 

And the above is why I only purchase top of the line tools..... In most cases you'll only buy once..... that's if you don't lend them out[biggrin] .... which is why I never lend out my Snap-on gear

[93DMTX1281734249]

Fluke for a handheld for sure. HP/Agilent if you need a benchtop for working on amps and stuff.

 

 

 

don't want to spend a mint for something you'll use very infrequently

 

Rarely a day goes by that I don't grab the Fluke to measure something...not just music stuff.

[Strumbone]

As mentioned earlier, an el cheapo meter is fine for checking switches and pots. For measuring B+ in my home built tube amp, or probing anything that has the potential to hurt or kill me, only a Fluke will do.

[93DMTX1281734249]

For measuring B+ in my home built tube amp, or probing anything that has the potential to hurt or kill me, only a Fluke will do.

 

Very good point indeed. Those cheap meters could VERY likely be safety hazards when working around lethal voltages.

[Albannach]

I use multimers daily with a simple Fluke 110 for everyday work and the likes of Beha, Beckmann Industries, Amp at home along with a clamp meter.

 

If you just want to test resistance and continuity then one of those little pocket meters with fixed leads around 10 - 15 $ would do but if you are getting serious then go for the best you can afford with capacitive capability along with frequency, true rms and goodies like peak and hold.

 

A word of advice to anyone who is not qualified or unsure about working on electrical circuits - electricity kills. May seem obvious but you would be surprised by the number of people who end up in A&E with electrical burns or worse who have come into contact with live electrical circuits.

 

I am a qualified electrical engineer of 35 years standing and I still do recertification every year on electrical hazard and COHE.

 

ALWAYS isolate from the mains if working on amps and be aware of capacitive discharge. If you are unsure or have no experience - leave it to the experts.

 

A service charge is cheaper than a funeral.

[teegar]

Thanks Albannach, advice well taken. I may mess with my amps a little in the future, but only after I've REALLY satisfied my trepidation and made damn sure I know how to safely discharge caps - and watch out for voltage creep and re-charge.

 

So I broke down and ordered the Fluke, 115. Hopefully that will do me for years to come. Getting set up to mod electrics is expensive! Oh well, it keeps me off the streets and now I have to justify the tool expenditures by acquiring a few more guitars...