tools for set up and books

[invasion]

HI I wanted to get some basic set up tools and was thinking of getting these from Stewmac

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Neck,_fingerboard/Basic_Setup_Kit.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=1783

 

Anyone got these or have opinion of them ??

I also was at some point thinking of part building a Les paul and wanted a good book on building your own electric guitar I have seen this which I was told is a good book

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Books,_plans/Building_and_repair:_Guitar,_electric/Make_Your_Own_Electric_Guitar.html

 

once again thoughts on this as a book and would also like recomendations on books for electrics and fretting

 

one last question when leveling frets do you set the neck as straight as possible without strings by adjusting truss rod and then level ?? got a couple of old guitars given to me that I want to learn the basics on as I got them free thought I have nothing to loose!

 

Thanks for any help much appreciated

[brad1]

I recommend you get the Guitar Player Repair Guide: How to Set Up, Maintain, and Repair Electrics and Acoustics Third Edition [Paperback]

By Dan Erlewine

 

That book has so much in it. It's a great book to always have around.

 

That kit looks nice. But it is not necessary to have.

But hey, if you have the money, get it. It will definitely help you do a set up.

[brianh]

I recommend you get the Guitar Player Repair Guide: How to Set Up' date=' Maintain, and Repair Electrics and Acoustics Third Edition [Paperback']

By Dan Erlewine

 

That book has so much in it. It's a great book to always have around.

+1 on the GP Repair Guide, it's a must-have.

 

As for the tools, I have the S/M string height gauge, string spacing gauge and set of their nut files (just the first four needed for most guitars). With those tools plus the Repair Guide, a spark-plug gap gauge from the auto parts store, a magnifying lamp, and some sandpaper of various grits, I can do a pretty respectable setup as well as carve new nuts.

 

I just use a steel ruler from Staples for the "precision straightedge", that seems to be close enough for my needs. You only need the radius gauge to put or change the radius on acoustics saddles. Electric guitar bridges have a preset radius, plus you can adust side-to-side with thumbwheels. On strats and teles you have individual string height adjustment in most cases, so no radius gauge needed.

[rdsmith3]

Another vote for the Dan Erlewine book.

 

As for tools ... for an electric guitar, for basic set-up, I don't think you need a whole let. You need a metal ruler, some small screw drivers, and the tool to adjust your truss rod. A string winder/snipper thing is also handy. You also need an electronic tuner to check intonation. Some fret board oil (e.g. lemon oil) is also useful, and a small bottle of that should last a lifetime.

[Dennis G]

I recommend you get the Guitar Player Repair Guide: How to Set Up' date=' Maintain, and Repair Electrics and Acoustics Third Edition [Paperback']

By Dan Erlewine

 

That book has so much in it. It's a great book to always have around.

 

+1 here as well. It's a must have.

[Whitmore Willy]

one last question when leveling frets do you set the neck as straight as possible without strings by adjusting truss rod and then level ?? got a couple of old guitars given to me that I want to learn the basics on as I got them free thought I have nothing to loose!

 

Invasion,

 

In answer to your last question: Yes.

 

Other things you may want to consider. You already have one of the most important tools for your first fret

leveling job. A guitar that you are not too worried about. I did my first one a Special II that I picked up used.

Cost me $90 for the guitar.

 

Other potential tools:

 

1. All the information you can gather.

2. Wrenches for truss rod and means to gauge "flat". (Sound like you have that covered)

3. Masking tape. (I prefer the blue painters type. Seems thicker to me,)

4. Utility Knife for exposing frets after taping. (Also tape pickups if there are any and top of guitar at sides of fret

board.

5. Some sort of fret leveling block and sandpaper (or) Fret leveling file....Everyone has their own favorite type.

6. Fret Rocker (not a must...some people use a credit card)

7. Fret crowning file (Everyone has their own favorite type)

8. Fret dressing stick (not necessary but a favorite tool of mine!)

 

http://www.stewmac.com/shopby/product/1826

 

9. Something to polish frets with when done. Some people use steel wool. I like:

 

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sanding_Tools_and_Supplies/Micro-Mesh_Soft_Touch_Finishing_Pads.html

 

Remember, when you are leveling or crowning for the first time, go easy until you get the hang of it.

It is very easy to take too much off!!! You can always take off some more. If you take too much off you will be

learning how to "re-fret".

 

A couple of interesting reads:

 

http://forum.gibson.com/index.php/topic/40821-goldie-gets-a-fret-dressing/page__pid__574708

 

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/epiphone-les-pauls/14714-complete-epi-custom-setup.html

 

Willy

 

P.S. A fret hammer can come in handy if you have any lifting frets before you start.

[invasion]

You only need the radius gauge to put or change the radius on acoustics saddles. Electric guitar bridges have a preset radius' date=' plus you can adust side-to-side with thumbwheels. On strats and teles you have individual string height adjustment in most cases, so no radius gauge needed.

[/quote']

 

Is that true ?? I thought the radius gauge helped you set the bridge on electric guitars like a strat style bridge

 

Invasion' date='

 

In answer to your last question: Yes.

 

Other things you may want to consider. You already have one of the most important tools for your first fret

leveling job. A guitar that you are not too worried about. I did my first one a Special II that I picked up used.

Cost me $90 for the guitar.

 

Other potential tools:

 

1. All the information you can gather.

2. Wrenches for truss rod and means to gauge "flat". (Sound like you have that covered)

3. Masking tape. (I prefer the blue painters type. Seems thicker to me,)

4. Utility Knife for exposing frets after taping. (Also tape pickups if there are any and top of guitar at sides of fret

board.

5. Some sort of fret leveling block and sandpaper (or) Fret leveling file....Everyone has their own favorite type.

6. Fret Rocker (not a must...some people use a credit card)

7. Fret crowning file (Everyone has their own favorite type)

8. Fret dressing stick (not necessary but a favorite tool of mine!)

 

http://www.stewmac.com/shopby/product/1826

 

9. Something to polish frets with when done. Some people use steel wool. I like:

 

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sanding_Tools_and_Supplies/Micro-Mesh_Soft_Touch_Finishing_Pads.html

 

Remember, when you are leveling or crowning for the first time, go easy until you get the hang of it.

It is very easy to take too much off!!! You can always take off some more. If you take too much off you will be

learning how to "re-fret".

 

A couple of interesting reads:

 

http://forums.epiphone.com/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=4127

 

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/epiphone-les-pauls/14714-complete-epi-custom-setup.html

 

Willy

 

P.S. A fret hammer can come in handy if you have any lifting frets before you start.

 

 

[/quote']

 

thanks for the advice really appreciated I will be sure to go easy on my first attempt

 

I will have to get a copy of that book as you all seem to swear by it!

 

Thanks again for everyones input much appreciated

[brianh]

Is that true ?? I thought the radius gauge helped you set the bridge on electric guitars like a strat style bridge

On guitars with individual string-height adjustment saddles (strats & teles), it's easier and more accurate to adjust string height one at a time as needed rather than use a generic radius gauge. Just check for buzzing as you go.

 

Of course if the neck is twisted or warped, all bets are off.

 

On guitars with fixed-radius bridges (LPs, SGs and ES type), radius gauges are useless because you can only change the radius by filing deeper grooves into the saddles.

[Whitmore Willy]

Almost forgot:

 

A neck caul. I use mine so much I just take it for granted.

The Rock-n-Roller looks really cool ....but for over all use I like a straight up "neck support caul".

 

http://www.stewmac.com/Shopping?actn=search&keyword=neck+caul&x=32&y=15

 

Cut a couple of pieces of timber the same length. A 2"x 4" and a 1"x4". Put them under the caul

separate or together and you can accommodate almost any guitar. Add a towel and a rag or two under the body

and you will have excellent support and protection for your guitar when working on it.

 

Willy

[bonzoboy]

I have a Groovetech toolkit from CRUZ TOOLs that should be in every guitarist's gig bag.It contains all the metric and SAE Allen keys that you need,slotted and Phillips screwdrivers,an LED mini flashlight,string/wire cutter,feeler guages, string winder,ruler in inches and metric and a capo.It also comes with a setup guide for guitar and bass.A deal for around $50.

[invasion]

I am now a little confused over fret leveling on two counts.

 

The method that I see most people seem to be using is:Level the neck with the strings removed and make sure the neck is dead straight with a nothced straight edge. Then level the frets in the usual manner once finished replace strings and set up.

 

This makes sense to me. Apart from in my mind I was thinking that when you put the strings back on and tune up, the frets will no longer be level (sorry if I am being really dumb withthis one) because of the relief or is it such a little change in the neck with the string tension added ??

Then I see another guy advises you put the neck in a jig put strings on it and tune up...set the dial gauges to zero and proceed to ramove strings and then put tension on the neck using a rod on the jig until the dial gauges are at zero again. thus simulating the neck under tension..then level the frets??

 

Now with this option I think I understand it as well. But in my mind... I am thinking that when you level the frets the middle ones will not be touched but the ones at nut and bridge end will be filed down loads ??

 

Now as I said before I am new to all of this and just trying to get my head around the best way to do it. Are both methods correct but the jig option extra fussy ??

Do I just have this all wrong ??

Please advise me

[Whitmore Willy]

Invasion,

 

Although I have only been doing fret leveling for a couple of years every thing I have ever seen, read or

done has been with strings removed and neck as flat as possible.

I have always had wonderful results.

This is not to say that there is not another method out there. By no means do I consider myself an expert.

 

If you have gotten other information off the internet please post a link. We are always open to learning

something new.

 

Just out of curiosity, could you be referring to having a guitar "Plecked"? That is done with optimum relief

in the neck.

Please watch video:

 

 

Willy

[invasion]

Hi willy,

Have a look at these two videos 14 and 15 see what you think you need to watch both to see what I mean

 

[Whitmore Willy]

Hi willy' date='

Have a look at these two videos 14 and 15 see what you think you need to watch both to see what I mean

 

[/quote']

 

Nice jig and gauges. Wish I could afford them. I watched videos 14 and 15.(and many others) A lot of good

information.

 

If you watch video 13 he puts the strings on and sets the neck relief to" flat" via the truss rod.

In video 14 he has not adjusted his jig. He does tell you at the end he is going to remove the strings

and set the neck back to flat. Before he removes the strings he zeros out his gauges. If you notice,

the neck is anchored at the body end. The jig has not yet been touched. He repeats that after he removes

the strings he will bring the neck back to "flat".

 

In video 15 he again states that he has already set the neck back to flat. He then shows how he did it.

With the neck anchored at the body end all he needed to do was raise the end post (under the headstock)

up until the gauges read zero again. Once more he states the neck again is flat.

 

All the jig allowed him to do is go back to flat without re-adjusting the truss rod. He then does all his fret

leveling with the neck in the flat position. Once the leveling is done he removes the neck from the jig.

Over the next few videos he crowns, files fret ends, polishes and buffs the frets. Once the frets were

level the neck does not need to be flat for these final steps. The neck does need to be flat for the leveling.

 

He does nothing else about the relief in the neck until about video 34 or 36. At that point he has completed

the job and goes back to check the neck. At that point (with stings back on) he does comment that the neck

is buzzing because it is too straight. He then uses the truss rod to give it some relief.

 

Once again, when he did the actual leveling the strings were off and the neck was flat. The jig just allowed

him to do this without the truss rod adjustment. A luxury I can not afford. (sure wish I could)

 

Willy

[invasion]

So the only benefit of the jig is it allows him to put the neck back to straight without using the truss rod ?? seems a lot of money to spend to do that..must be easier just to put the neck straight without the strings on and then level the frets and much cheaper as well...so will the jig give a better end result at all?? if the same guy did both methods would it be any differnt on one of the guitars.

Apreciate you helping me out with this what did people do before the net lol so much help to be had..must of cost a fortune to learn stuff before!

 

That guy has done a good job in those videos and taught me a lot (I think) will watch them a few more times to make it sink in a little.

Regards

[vanessa]

I recommend you get the Guitar Player Repair Guide: How to Set Up' date=' Maintain, and Repair Electrics and Acoustics Third Edition [Paperback']

By Dan Erlewine

 

I came across this link ... 2nd Edition, though ... Help yourself :-)

 

 

Download :

 

Link # 1 :

 

(size = 25 MBs, pdf, low quality )

 

http://rapidshare.com/files/121960688/Guitar_Player_Repair_Guide.rar

 

Or:

 

Link #2 : ( size = 143 MBs ; high quality )

 

http://rapidshare.com/files/76768137/Dan_Erlewine_-_Guitar_Player_Repair_Guide.part1.rar

http://rapidshare.com/files/76773670/Dan_Erlewine_-_Guitar_Player_Repair_Guide.part2.rar

[vanessa]

For more Guitar repair books & videos ? Check it out here :

 

http://www.filecatch.com/?x=1&q=guitar+players+repair+guide+

 

 

http://www.demonoid.com/files/?category=0&subcategory=All&quality=All&seeded=0&external=2&query=Dan+Erlewine&uid=0&sort=

[Whitmore Willy]

Vanessa,

 

Torrent and RAR files?

 

Not that you should care ....but....I think I am really gonna like you.

 

 

Willy

[vanessa]

Vanessa' date='

 

Torrent and RAR files?

 

Not that you should care ....but....I think I am really gonna like you.

 

 

Willy

 

[/quote']

 

Uh..Oh.. Mais ...C'est la vie , n'est ce pas ?

[Gordy01]

I am now a little confused over fret leveling on two counts.

 

The method that I see most people seem to be using is:Level the neck with the strings removed and make sure the neck is dead straight with a nothced straight edge. Then level the frets in the usual manner once finished replace strings and set up.

 

This makes sense to me. Apart from in my mind I was thinking that when you put the strings back on and tune up' date=' the frets will no longer be level (sorry if I am being really dumb withthis one) because of the relief or is it such a little change in the neck with the string tension added ??

Then I see another guy advises you put the neck in a jig put strings on it and tune up...set the dial gauges to zero and proceed to ramove strings and then put tension on the neck using a rod on the jig until the dial gauges are at zero again. thus simulating the neck under tension..then level the frets??

 

Now with this option I think I understand it as well. But in my mind... I am thinking that when you level the frets the middle ones will not be touched but the ones at nut and bridge end will be filed down loads ??

 

Now as I said before I am new to all of this and just trying to get my head around the best way to do it. Are both methods correct but the jig option extra fussy ??

Do I just have this all wrong ??

Please advise me [/quote']

 

 

The method you should use is this.

MAKE SURE TO TAPE THE BODY, PICKUPS, AND ANY EXPOSED PARTS TO AVOID DAMAGE!!

 

1. Remove the strings and nut, and get the neck as straight as possible using the truss rod. The nut

is removed so that your leveling tool can go all the way past both ends of the neck. Sometimes if

you stop short, the end frets will not get the same amount of sanding as the center, and you

can end up with a low spot in the center of the neck.

2. Mark the fret tops using a dry erase marker. Don't do this if your fingerboard is maple. It will stain the maple.

3. Using either a long fine file, or a radiused sanding block, slowly level the frets in long strokes, stopping

often to check on your progress. I use the radiused sanding blocks from stewmac. I find they work very well,

maintaining the proper radius with little or no effort on my part.

4. Once the lowest fret has a sanding mark, stop. The frets are now level.

5. You should take a small amount more off the frets above the 15th.

This is called "Fallaway". You need a bit of fallaway so there are no buzzes up high on the neck.

6. Start the fret crowning now.

 

After crowning, re-string and set your relief to about 6 or 8 thousanths.

The fret tops are where the relief is measured, so they can not be level with relief in the neck.

[Gordy01]

Vanessa' date='

 

Torrent and RAR files?

 

Not that you should care ....but....I think I am really gonna like you.

 

 

Willy

 

[/quote']

 

Willy,

 

What kind of program do you need to open .rar files?

Or Torrent files?

[vanessa]

Willy' date='

 

What kind of program do you need to open .rar files?

Or Torrent files?[/quote']

 

 

i) For .rar files , use winrar . However, winrar is a shareware !! Fortunately, you can use the freeware "Zipeg " to unrar . It is available here:

 

http://majorgeeks.com/Zipeg_d6085.html

 

 

 

iì) The .torrent file you get from Demonoid.com it is just kind of a link and you should use the program " uTorrent" to download the actual file.

 

Here is the " how to " :

 

1) Get the freeware utorrent here : http://majorgeeks.com/uTorrent_d4818.html

 

2) Install the program

 

3) Double-click on the .torrent link , the program will start-up

 

4) If you have problems with utorrent, go here for answers :

 

http://www.utorrent.com/faq

 

or :

 

http://www.ehow.com/how_2054135_use-utorrent.html )

[vanessa]

...but....I think I am really gonna like you.

 

Really ?? Then some more goodies for you Willy ... :-)

 

=================================

 

Guitar Books - Building & Repair

 

Books Titles:

Acoustic Guitar Construction.pdf

Art Of Mixing - David Gibson (Visual Guide To Recording) (Ebook).pdf

Building Electric Guitars- M. Koch (2001).pdf

Cheap Auto-Wa.pdf

Concert Reverb Schematic.pdf

Effects - Sitar Effect for Guitar (schematic).pdf

Fret Farm Bass Guides - 4 String v114.pdf

Fret Farm Bass Guides - 5 String v114.pdf

Gourd Banjo Construction.pdf

Guitar - FretBoard Logic SE .pdf

Guitar Builders FAQ.pdf

Guitar Design Production and Repair - J. Donahue (2002) WW.pdf

Guitar Funk Box - Use 2N4401.pdf

Guitar Pickup - Make Your Own.pdf

Guitar Wiring - Humbucking Pickups' date=' Modifications, Guitar Effects Schematics.pdf

How to build a Junkbox Guitar Amplifier.pdf

How To Build Your Own Effects Guitar Electronics Schematics.pdf

Leslie Effect Simulator.pdf

Looper.pdf

Make a guitar sound like a banjo or mandolin.pdf

Musical Instrument Amplifier Servicing [short article'] - R. Johnson (1993) WW.pdf

Shure - Connecting Microphones To Mixers WW.pdf

The Electric Guitar Amplifier Handbook - J. Darr (Sams, 1973) WW.pdf

Tonepad Chorus Ensemble2.pdf

Electronic Projects for Musicians.pdf

Guitar Building Plans.pdf

Guitars Design, Production and Repair - Jim Donahue.pdf

Building Electric Guitars - Martin Koch.pdf

Guitar Player Repair Guide - Dan Erlewine.pdf

How to paint your Guitar.pdf

 

download : (size =182 MBs)

 

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=Z7AKY9BQ