thisISjoel Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Hey dudes, sorry if this has come up before but I did search for a similar topic but couldn't find one. So, I've got a black g400 which I've had for about 3 years, I really dig how it looks but I've never been able to get the action right, it's always either too high or just buzzing terribly and as such it get's neglected when it comes time to play :( I've just ordered some bucker sized p90s to replace the stock pups and I'll probably replace the pots and switch too and I want to make sure after I do that I can get the action setup just right and rock this baby as hard as I should :) So, if anyone has any links to any helpful threads or videos or just your own experience what's the best way to get a nice action with minimal buzz on one of these things? Thanks :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaSTuS Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Hi Joel, welcome to the forum, great bunch here. To do a basic setup I use three steps, adjust neck/trussrod, adjust bridge/saddle height and check/adjust intonation, in that order. Many links for these subjects can be found in the DO-IT-YOURSELF thread, put together by member "animalfarm", you'll find it pinned to the top of the Epiphone Lounge section of this forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMC59 Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 I've just ordered some bucker sized p90s to replace the stock pups and I'll probably replace the pots and switch too and I want to make sure after I do that I can get the action setup just right and rock this baby as hard as I should :) I don't have an answer for you, but could you please tell me where you got your humbucker size P90s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thisISjoel Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 Thanks I will go check that thread out :) I got the pups off eBay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strat-o-steve Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Always be realistic when thinking of how a guitar's action should be. The strings can only go so low and still vibrate :) Scale length, string gauge, overall setup and condition of the guitar's neck and how hard you play all play a factor. Good luck, and I hope you get your axe set up to your liking so you won't neglect playing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thisISjoel Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 Cheers Steve, I have realistic expectations, it's a cheapie after all. I might have a couple of practice runs doin the setup while I wait for the new pups/pots to come in. On that note I'm planning on ordering CTS pots but I also want a toggle switch, any recommendations for brands? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitmore Willy Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 I also want a toggle switch, any recommendations for brands? Switchcraft toggle switch and jack. Setup: http://mysite.verizon.net/jazz.guitar/guitarsetup.htm Also, Strat-O-Steve is correct about setups. Nothing is written in stone! Other "Stuff": http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/61124-let-me-rephrase-the-question-p94-swap-questions/ The above link is about pots, caps and wiring. Within that post is a link to a discussion Supersonic and I had about his G400. Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
animalfarm Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 Always be realistic when thinking of how a guitar's action should be. The strings can only go so low and still vibrate :) Scale length, string gauge, overall setup and condition of the guitar's neck and how hard you play all play a factor. True. I use both the eyball method and an 18" metal machinist's ruler to adjust the neck. eyeballing it from the Bout end back to the headstock (using the strings as a reference straight edge) will allow you to see any upbow at the headstock end of the neck. I leave just a VERY SLIGHT bit of upbow, as many players do. Placing a straightedge on the first and last frets (with Git in playing position, so Gravity won't pull the headstock down and affect the neck), I put a light behind the straightedge. This allows me to see the gaps between the bottom of the ruler and the tops of the frets. I adjust so that a Playing Card will fit under the ruler at only the 7, 8, 9th frets, and is stopped by fret/ruler contact beyond that. Adjust in 1/8th turns, retune to pitch, let sit for a couple of hours, recheck. How's that for "Shade-Tree Mechanic" Neck adjustment? Works quite well for me! Also, Strat-O-Steve is correct about setups. Nothing is written in stone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thisISjoel Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 One more thing (which might be covered in one of the links in the DIY thread but i haven't read through them yet) is it best to set the action at the bridge to a height you like and then adjust the truss rod to eliminate as much buzz as possible or should the truss adjustments be made first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigneil Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 One more thing (which might be covered in one of the links in the DIY thread but i haven't read through them yet) is it best to set the action at the bridge to a height you like and then adjust the truss rod to eliminate as much buzz as possible or should the truss adjustments be made first? I personally would adjust the truss rod first then set the string height at the bridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordy01 Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 Yep, set the neck first. 1. Put a capo on the 1st fret and press the string down at the 17th fret. 2. Check how much clearance there is at the 7-9th frets. This is called "Using the String as a Straightedge". 3. Adjust the truss rod until there is about .004 - .0010 of "Relief". Leave the capo on the 1st fret to set string height at the bridge. 1. With the capo on, set the Bass E at .0060 or to your preference. 2. Set the Treble E to about .0030, or again, to your preference. 3. All the other strings are in a gradual slope from there. After that, you might have to to some adjusting at the nut. For that you can use nut files, or make your own out of old strings and a small piece of dowel. Just superglue a short (5-6 inches) of string to a short 7-8 inches) of small (3/8) dowel. This is not the best file, but it might work for a small amount of adjustment. Before you go filing the nut, check it this way: Place a capo in between the 3rd and 4th frets, closer to the 3rd. If there is a small amount of clearance (.0001 - .0003) in between the string, and the 1st fret, you should be OK. If there is too much clearance, you will have to file the nut. WARNING!! The nut is the most common area of error. It is easy to file too much off and ruin the nut. Also, if you don't know how to shape the nut slots, leave it to a pro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thisISjoel Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 Thanks for the info guys, I have another question though, with adjusting the height at the bridge do you adjust the height where the saddles are or at the stop tail or both? Should one be higher than the other? Sorry if I've got the names of the parts wrong, hopefully you get the picture anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigneil Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 the bridge is used to adjust the string height and the stoptail is where the strings are anchored and should sit so that the strings are angled down off the saddles. bear in mind that in this pic', the stoptail is sitting unusually high, your one will almost certainly be much closer to the body of the guitar . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thisISjoel Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 Cool, thanks :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thisISjoel Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 Can anyone tell me if these pots will fit? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400192527617&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jadedbat Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Prolly have to open up the holes a touch if yer upgrading pots. I stuck Gibson wiring / pots / switch in my 96 G400 and had to open up all the holes a touch. I used a rotary tool with the cone sanding bit and a low setting and took my time... no finish issues luckily. I'd encourage taking your guitar to a pro to get setup. And when you do question them as to what they did to whip it into shape. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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