thejtl Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 I picked up an LR Baggs M1A the other day and I want to install the endpin jack in my new AJ instead of having it hang out the soundhole. I was originally gonna just do that, but the cable and jack aren't very long and I'm afraid they'll bang into the guitar when not plugged in. I have been taking the cable off when I'm not using it, but to reattach it to the pickup I have to take the thing out, which isn't hard, but again, I don't want to mess up the finish. I know what has to be done to install the jack. It's not hard at all. Of course I'm afraid of screwing the guitar up. anyone else do this themselves? I have a Silver Creek 000 that I paid $200 for that I might practice on first. I wouldn't be too upset if I messed up that guitar. It's $2300 cheaper than the AJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danner Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Yes, it is not difficult. But, do not attempt to do it without the proper tool, an endpin reamer. About $60 from StewMac.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blindboygrunt Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 i did it on a martin a few years ago with a drill , just go easy... btw, i'm not a DIY expert , i had to borrow a drill :-) peice of cake ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morkolo Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Yes, it is not difficult. But, do not attempt to do it without the proper tool, an endpin reamer. About $60 from StewMac.com That's awfully expensive for what is essentially a $15 drill bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 That's awfully expensive for what is essentially a $15 drill bit. Well, it is tapered, after all. And a reamer isn't cut like a drill bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejtl Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Well, seeing how I'm not going to be installing endpin jacks for a living, I'm not buying a $60 tool. I bought a $5 1/2" brad bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danner Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Well, seeing how I'm not going to be installing endpin jacks for a living, I'm not buying a $60 tool. I bought a $5 1/2" brad bit. Brad point is good, but the correct size is 15/32". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejtl Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 The instructions from Baggs says 1/2"...hmmm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubstar Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 I just purchased the M1, so please keep us posted... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morkolo Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Well, it is tapered, after all. And a reamer isn't cut like a drill bit. Same with the one I used to install my endpin jack, only I used a step drill bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danner Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 If it's the standard Switchcraft 1/4" endpin jack, the fit is 15/32. A regular twist drill has a tendency to lift the finish around the hole. A brad point bit is better because is scribes a line in the finish before the drill starts removing wood. A reamer is best at protecting the finish because it gradually enlarges a smaller hole to the proper size. But, if you pull some finish up around the hole, hopefully, the washer and nut on the jack will hide the damage. It's only a guitar, and like you say, you probably won't be using a $60 tool over and over again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 If it's the standard Switchcraft 1/4" endpin jack, the fit is 15/32. A regular twist drill has a tendency to lift the finish around the hole. A brad point bit is better because is scribes a line in the finish before the drill starts removing wood. A reamer is best at protecting the finish because it gradually enlarges a smaller hole to the proper size. But, if you pull some finish up around the hole, hopefully, the washer and nut on the jack will hide the damage. It's only a guitar, and like you say, you probably won't be using a $60 tool over and over again. How do you plan on keeping a brad point drill centered in the existing hole? You can really make a mess when trying to enlarge an existing hole with one of these. Are these endpin jacks designed for a straight hole, or a tapered hole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibson101 Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 I picked up an LR Baggs M1A the other day and I want to install the endpin jack in my new AJ instead of having it hang out the soundhole. I was originally gonna just do that, but the cable and jack aren't very long and I'm afraid they'll bang into the guitar when not plugged in. I have been taking the cable off when I'm not using it, but to reattach it to the pickup I have to take the thing out, which isn't hard, but again, I don't want to mess up the finish. I know what has to be done to install the jack. It's not hard at all. Of course I'm afraid of screwing the guitar up. anyone else do this themselves? I have a Silver Creek 000 that I paid $200 for that I might practice on first. I wouldn't be too upset if I messed up that guitar. It's $2300 cheaper than the AJ. Seems kind of silly not to have it done professionally on a $2500 guitar. I'm a pretty handy guy and work with tools all day long and I know I'd go ahead and drop it off with my favorite tech for this job. That being said if you go for it I would love to see some pics of the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danner Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 How do you plan on keeping a brad point drill centered in the existing hole? You can really make a mess when trying to enlarge an existing hole with one of these. Are these endpin jacks designed for a straight hole, or a tapered hole? The only way to approach that is to remove the Gibson strap button and wood screw, then fill the hole with wood putty, let it cure and then drill with the brad-point. Oh yeah, and don't forget to make sure the hole is perpendicular with the surface of the guitar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stein Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 There is one thing to consider. I don't know if it will effect the lifetime warranty. It would be a good question to have answered for everyone. The only reason I bring it up is the possibility that having it done might allow you to have the warranty. Aside from that, no way would I NOT have it done, because it would only be a matter of time before it would have to be to gig with. OK...back to the drilling. Sinse you are using an existing hole, I would not use a brad point. It will not center it for you, and the effort might cause you to make a mistake. What I would personally use, is a regular old drill bit of the exact proper size. Then you know it will be a perfect hole. The only concern then is drilling WITHOUT chipping the wood. To do that, I usually start the drilling in reverse, and go back and forth carefully from reverse and forward until the start of the hole is the full diameter and below the top layer of wood. The reason is that in forward, there is a chance of the bit grabbing the wood and tearing it. In reverse, it acts like a dull reamer, and you can use the angle if the tip to both center the bit and grind through the first layer, thus preventing and chipping. Just a tip from an average carpenter type that has drilled a lot of holes. OH...one more tip. you can use different sizes to build up to the proper size. Regular bits are cheap, and you don't have to get the premium super-sharp titanium diamond tip dodo-bird piss coated versions for a one-time use in wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejtl Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 OK, I'm totally freaked out now. Yikes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danner Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 OK, I'm totally freaked out now. Yikes! I have done all three techniques. I had a Yamaha FG750s that I stalled a Fishman Matrix Infinity by using a 1/2" drill. That guitar had sycamore (think light maple) back and sides. The brand new drill bit really chewed the finish and wood. I am absolutely positive that is a terrible way to install an endpin jack. On a low end Martin, I used a brad-point drill. I filled the existing hole with the stem of a tapered endpin. It was a lot better than the Yamaha debacle, but it is still a bit tough on the finish, but was easily hidden by the washer on the jack. Now I have the StewMac reamer, and it is really easy and clean ( I have dome a couple lower end guitars). Drill a 1/4" hole and then ream to size. Having said all this, I have a $2900 Southern Jumbo, and I would take that one to a good luthier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 OH...one more tip. you can use different sizes to build up to the proper size. Regular bits are cheap, and you don't have to get the premium super-sharp titanium diamond tip dodo-bird piss coated versions for a one-time use in wood. One more tip: mask over the hole, and drill through the tape. Less chance of chipping off finish. BUT, always pull off masking tape parallel to the surface: that is, pull the tape back over itself to avoid lifting any finish. Kind of makes that reamer at $60 look like not such a bad deal, huh? Or a good guitar tech for about the same amount of $. Unless you are really handy, this is not the "repair" job to start with on a $2K guitar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Del Nilppeznaf Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I have the M1 that I use in a new HB TV. At the moment I am playing with the lead hanging out the sound hole, I use a bit of tape to keep it in place on the PG and the end pin jack does not come into contact with the guitar body. I remove the M1 whenever I'm not plugged in, keeping the small jack plugged into the pup which makes it easier to get in and out of the sound hole and I have covered the top grip of the M1 with a thin layer of cork to protect the finish. It all works fine for me..... for now. I have done some reading up on installing the end pin and I will take it to a luthier when the time comes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhanners623 Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 When doing a repair/mod yourself, make sure you have enough money 1) to buy the proper tool and 2) to pay a competent repairman to fix what you screwed up.... Really, it is an expensive guitar, so pay a pro to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfox14 Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I would definitely invest in the hole reamer. All work on guitars demand the proper tool. You could just use a standard hand-held hole reamer you can get at any DIY/hardware store, but he StewMac one is the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I would definitely invest in the hole reamer. All work on guitars demand the proper tool. You could just use a standard hand-held hole reamer you can get at any DIY/hardware store, but he StewMac one is the best. So there you go: a real-live luthier tells us the right way to do it. Listen, and learn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drathbun Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I've done this on many guitars. Making a new hole in a new $2000-$3000 guitar is not for the faint of heart. Using a reamer is a nice, controlled way of doing it. Make sure you mask off the finish to minimize lacquer chipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stein Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 WOW...LOTS of different answers and opinions here on this one. I think the good advice comes from Clint Eastwood, "A man's GOT to know his limitations". I think, there really is not to much to worry about. I don't think taking it in to someone and having them do it is NOT being a man, and may be worth it just for the stress factor. The WORST that could POSSIBLY happen is, you spend a little too much doing it, either in tools or taking it in. The OTHER worst case, is that you do it yourself and end up actually making a mistake and doing some minor damage. Again, not the end of the world, and surely could be fixed. Don't cringe folks. I ain't saying it is cool to just hack a guitar-I mean at the WORST! Whenever we DIY, or take on something that may require a little skill, we have to own our own work and abilities. So, if a guy knows his skill and feels confident, or if a guy chooses to let another do it, both raods lead to the same place. Just trying to offer a little perspective, as opposed to advice. For am opinion, I think either way the important one is you decided to put an endjack on it in the first place. Not that I should be the one to say, but I think that is the thing to do. I like the idea of guitars being used as much as they can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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