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Korean or Chinese? What year?


Texasbluezman

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Texasbluesman,

 

Welcome to the forum. I see you have 12 posts but don't recall you posting in Epi Electrics before.

 

Well, I'm not going to be much help on the info you are looking for.

Maybe other will know more than me. (which isn't very difficult)

 

I can give you some information you might find useful.

 

If you check the top of this forum, there is a sticky that explains serial numbers and factory codes.

Also, if you can get the serial number, there are some here that are experts at retrieving the info from them.

 

UNFORTUNATELY...this in itself mean nothing when buying a used Epi. Especially the model you are looking at.

I hope you know your stuff.

 

You may already know this but in case you are not aware...

The Epiphone Silverburst and the Zakk Wylde guitars are probably the most counterfeited guitars in the business.

 

If you know what you are looking at fine. If not, seeing the original receipt is a start. It is good to post straight on pics of the front and back of headstock, straight on front of guitar and inside of control cavity if possible....BEFORE YOU BUY!

There are some well informed members here that might be able to help verify authenticity.

Even then, used is a crap shoot.

 

Willy

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Here is the add: http://houston.craigslist.org/msg/2842024010.html

 

I have talked to the owner briefly, only about when I can take a look at the guitar.

 

I am planning on checking it out later today (I'm working nights right now, gotta sleep too!). The owner actually works at the same facility that I do, but in another area. I do not know him, but he offered me directions to house already.

 

Yeah, I'm new here. I'm usually on the Fender forum, but here I've been mainly on the Gibson Les Paul and Explorer threads, but I realized that I don't play out professionally anymore, so why do I need a $1000-$2000 guitar. I played just fine with the Epi Les Paul Studio that I used to have. Even recorded in the studio with it. It had a SD JB and '59 in it. Samples and pics of that guitar are here: www.myspace.com/Kemistery

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Well, I got the guitar, and a SKB hard case. It sounded pretty good, considering the digital setup the owner had to play through. I am working nights, so I won't be able to play it through my setup until I wake up tomorrow. So far, I'm very satisfied with my purchase. This LP doesn't hardly have a scratch on it. Practically new! I will post some pics when I get some.

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Here is the info that I got off of the Guitar Dater Project:

 

Your guitar was made at the

Qingdao Plant (Epiphone), China

November 2007

Production Number: 03081

 

 

By looking at it, I was thinking it was newer. Like I said, hardly any scratches on it. It is as new as you would find hanging up at Guitar Center for a few months. It is built really well, as is just as heavy as a Gibby Trad Pro. It has good sustain and a decent sound. I took the covers off the back to inspect the wiring, not a bad job, I've seen worse. I plan on getting some Burstbuckers and good pots with bumblebee caps, sometime in the future. No hurry. Looking foward to jammin' with my buds in April. Working a night shift until then. Anyway, here's some pics. Sorry for the blur, camera phone photo taken at night, not much light.

Silverbursthead.jpg

 

Silverburst.jpg

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From guitar to a Visual Sound Jekyll & Hyde V1 Grey box, a Dunlop JH-1B wah, and straight to a Fender Blues Deluxe Reissue with a NOS JAN GE 12AY7 in V1, a JJEC803S in V2, and a balanced NOS JAN Phillips/Sylvania 12AT7 in V3, stock power tubes biased at 80mV at the test point. I plug the LP and my Schecter in input #2, Tele's and Strat's use input #1. Cleans are amazing. Overdrive (Jekyll) side is clear and you can hear each individual note in chords, Distortion (Hyde) is a little muddy, but not too bad. Stock electronics are not that bad. Overall, I'm satisfied for now. I love to tinker with stuff. After this 2 month night shift, I'll be repainting my Kasuga Tele and reassembling it, then I'll start getting the electronics for the LP.

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I don't want to rain on anybodies parade, but the most commonly found counterfeit epi's are EE07 Customs in black, white and silverburst - sometimes the EE is in a larger font but not always.

 

My other issue is you never seem to see a real Epi with the tuner washers overlapping the binding and many fakes do show that issue - so I'm not trying to say it's fake, but if i were you I'd open up the control cavity and take a sharp utility knife and cut away a slice of the cavity wall to see what she's made of.

 

You could also post clear close-up pictures of the control cavity, front / back of headstock and front of the body for opinions here.

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I am very pleased with it (even if it is Chinese). I was sure the guitar was legit. The guy said he got it on impulse from a music store, but didn't say which one. He seemed very honest about the guitar (was wearing a Christian shirt), but I've been lied to before. He wants to hook up after I get off this night shift to jam a little and to discuss projects and the like. May turn out to a good friend to share knowledge with.

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I am very pleased with it (even if it is Chinese).

There's absolutely nothing wrong with a Guitar that comes from China, I actually prefer them for their value for money.

 

He seemed very honest about the guitar (was wearing a Christian shirt)

Means nothing, have you seen those so called "Christian evangelists" on TV, some of the biggest thieves that ever drew breath IMHO.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Congrabs on the grab Texasblusman! She's a beaute! It's funny I stumbled onto this thread because I'm lookin at the exact same geet on a C.L. ad in my area. I had no idea that it was so common for Eppys to be counterfieted. Is there a sticky telling us what to look for? :unsure:

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"Means nothing, have you seen those so called "Christian evangelists" on TV, some of the biggest thieves that ever drew breath IMHO."

 

Ha - reminds me of the quote from Bono "The God I believe in ain't short of cash,mister"

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I want to use the best stuff for my electronics rebuild. I've read that CTS pots require a bigger hole. Is this true? I want to wire it up old school, much simplier. I'm not scared to drill holes on my guitar, just wanted to verify. I have not taken anything apart yet (still on nights). Will I need short or long shaft pots? Just want to get the right stuff!

 

I plan on using CTS pots, either Orange Drop or VitaminQ caps (bumblebees are more than I want to pay), Switchcraft 3 way switch (long or short?) and input jack, and 80/20 solder. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. I've been soldering on guitars for about 15 years, so no problem there.

 

I'm still deciding on pickups, but they will be Burstbuckers. (1,2,3,or Pro?)

 

Edit: I've been over at the DIY thread and had my first question answered. Time to get my drill skills up to snuff!

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