I think some of you have done this???

[onewilyfool]

Can you guys share what it cost you to have this done by luthier? What were the tonal results? Did you like it? Does it affect "vintage" value or re-sale value if you do this( value up or down?) Any sharings appreciated....

[jedzep]

">http://forum.gibson...._1?do=findComment&comment=1271467

 

Luthier? You'll be able to swap this out yourself, though not a bad idea to have it set up afterward for a cheap fix. Here's the link to the last discussion of this topic.

[pschaafs]

I swapped out the adj saddle on my 1969 J-50, similar to the above pic, but on mine the rosewood insert replacing the old adj piece is flush with and fully bonded to the rest of the bridge. As I recall, it cost me about $150 to have it done. IMO, it improved the tone a lot, and I don't care about any decrease in value... I only paid $275 for this new, and it has sentimental value much greater than that.

[fredcapo]

FYI - I did this on my 67 Hummingbird... I removed the bridge (also installed a maple bridgeplate in place of the stock ply one).

 

I sent the bridge to Jim Grainger at Custom Fret and he installed the rosewood insert w saddle in the slot. Only risk was he could not

set intonation since I had the guitar, but since it was OK on the orig, felt it was worth it. I reinstalled bridge...what an improvement.

 

Cost me $50 (about 10 years ago)

[jedzep]

FYI - I did this on my 67 Hummingbird... I removed the bridge (also installed a maple bridgeplate in place of the stock ply one).

 

I sent the bridge to Jim Grainger at Custom Fret and he installed the rosewood insert w saddle in the slot. Only risk was he could not

set intonation since I had the guitar, but since it was OK on the orig, felt it was worth it. I reinstalled bridge...what an improvement.

 

Cost me $50 (about 10 years ago)

 

 

A good solution too...

Just had a bridge r&r cost me $85 and tax.

[E-minor7]

I had 3 saddle inserts made -

2 in rose with bone and the often talked about rose with 1/3 rose and 2/3 bone.

They cost me around 150-160 USD each.

Always very exiting - the drop down moment a peak.

[BluesKing777]

My luthier changed my 12 string B25/12 to a very similar arrangement as the one in the photo - he routed a slot for the new rosewood piece with bone saddle - he said it is better to keep it 'proud' of the slot instead of level, so it doesn't tip over under pressure.

 

Because it was 12 strings, it probably cost twice as much! (Sorry Wily, I don't remember how much it cost).

 

But it sure sounds good to me!

 

 

BluesKing777.

[j45nick]

Wily, this one is a bit tricky. You can fill the insert as others here have done, but that only solves part of the issues that can arise with the adjustable saddle. You can't remove all the old adjustment system parts without completely removing the bridge to get out the heavy brass inserts that are the heart of the adjustment mechanism, so the simple "remove the saddle and fill the slot" remedy is only a partial solution.

 

To get the full impact, you would get rid of the plywood bridgeplate that usually goes with this installation at the same time, and put in a proper maple plate. At that point, rather than filling the slot, you might as well make a new, proper bridge. Total cost of that approach would typically be $300-$400 or so.

 

The impact on value is difficult to predict. I would not do it, for example, on an all-original mid-50's J-160, but would consider it on an early 60's J-45 or similar.

 

Opinions are slightly mixed on the sonic results, but as best I can tell, about 75% of people claim to hear an improvement. Whether that is trying to justify the money they have spent, or it's real, I couldn't say with certainty. I do know that I did the whole replacement job--bridge, bridgeplate, saddle--on one guitar, and I was very pleased with the result. But in that case, I was returning the guitar to its original bridge configuration, so there could not possibly be any negative impact on value.

 

Chances are that it won't increase the value of a guitar significantly, but may not hurt it unless the adjustable bridge was a key component of the original design, as it was with the J-160.

[E-minor7]

The drop down insert is the way to go, as I see it.

You keep everything original (screws or no screws) and still come very close to the whole new bridge concept.

Besides you will be able to experiment with all those saddle material variations, talked about so often here.

If nothing really hits bulls eyes, then further the guitar goes - original as it is.

[larryplatz]

Wily, this one is a bit tricky. You can fill the insert as others here have done, but that only solves part of the issues that can arise with the adjustable saddle. You can't remove all the old adjustment system parts without completely removing the bridge to get out the heavy brass inserts that are the heart of the adjustment mechanism, so the simple "remove the saddle and fill the slot" remedy is only a partial solution.

 

To get the full impact, you would get rid of the plywood bridgeplate that usually goes with this installation at the same time, and put in a proper maple plate. At that point, rather than filling the slot, you might as well make a new, proper bridge. Total cost of that approach would typically be $300-$400 or so.

 

The impact on value is difficult to predict. I would not do it, for example, on an all-original mid-50's J-160, but would consider it on an early 60's J-45 or similar.

 

Opinions are slightly mixed on the sonic results, but as best I can tell, about 75% of people claim to hear an improvement. Whether that is trying to justify the money they have spent, or it's real, I couldn't say with certainty. I do know that I did the whole replacement job--bridge, bridgeplate, saddle--on one guitar, and I was very pleased with the result. But in that case, I was returning the guitar to its original bridge configuration, so there could not possibly be any negative impact on value.

 

Chances are that it won't increase the value of a guitar significantly, but may not hurt it unless the adjustable bridge was a key component of the original design, as it was with the J-160.

 

This is exactly what I had done to my '65 J50 Adj. My luthier (Jim Shenk of Wooden Music in Goshen, IN) was able to remove the plywood bridgeplate intact, make a beautifully matched Brazilian insert which can be removed to go back to the adjustabe, and installed a bone bridge saddle for $125. i just recently traded it back to my dealer friend for my recently acquired '53 J50 and he assured me that since everything can be fairly easily and inexpensively converted back that this actually made the guitar more valuable to his potential buyer for the '65 because most people prefer the conversion but to a true collector the value of the "original" can still be restored. And to my ears at least, the difference in sound was pretty substantial although it may have been more from the solid maple bridge plate than the saddle conversion, but as stated, you won't do one without doing the other. Just my own experience. Hope it helps.

[jedzep]

If you took my shortcut, Wily, you have to remember that the saddle, or the wood slot that cradles it will rest right on the brass sleeves. Not good physics for sound transfer. The underside of my saddle slot was notched and shaped to permit contact with the top only and hang just above the sleeves on the ends. I did it that way knowing I would resell and trade eventually for an LG2 or 3. I sent the guitar out to a buyer put back to original condition and included the modified piece.