NighthawkChris

I lived in Dearborn for many years. Now I live a bit more north. And yeah around here if you’re into engineering, probably going to get an automotive related job. I hate the auto industry and glad I found an “oasis” job that is not automotive related. It isn’t interesting anymore and not a great area to grow your skills. Once you start getting into making automotive modules and such, the design is already there and you just do what you’re told. No innovation and all about following orders. IDK… just glad I got out of that garbage! Happy I don’t have to sit in the plants and tech centers to make some crappy design I had nothing to do with work. Just sucks the soul out of you a little bit each day you go to work.

Last time I was called in for jury duty I was selected to be a juror. I went into court for a couple days and case was over after that. Was sort of interesting and didn’t mind the time off work. I actually wanted to be a juror though to experience the court process. Wasn’t a big deal really… went in at 8 left before 5 - normal work day for me and didn’t lose my normal pay from my real day job. I had several chances to answer opinion type questions when the lawyers were picking the jurors and I answered good enough to make it to preside over the trial. In the end before the jury was to decide a verdict, they pulled a couple numbers out of a hat to pick the reserve jurors and I was picked. So I never had anything to do with the final verdict. Interesting experience to say the least.

Since you're a pretty handy guy, why not make your own neck cradle? Don't necessarily have to do exactly as the video suggests, but the idea is the same. Oh yeah @Realmongo, awesome setup bench man! It is something I really need to think about having for myself. Makes guitar maintenance tasks easier to handle. Thanks for sharing!

@Texsunburst59 I second the motion to buy used. Like you large percentage of my guitars have been bought used. Need to know what your looking for and how to assess if the guitar has issues - like neck problem or something - but generally you can get a much better deal in terms of what you have to pay going used.

Ditto. Locking Grovers are premium tuners IMHO. The Klusons aren’t bad whatsoever, but Grovers are excellent - especially if they are the locking type. I’d enjoy playing it for a while before start thinking about what to change on it. That’s just me…

Congrats @1st Guitar nice looking Studio LP! Happy NGD!

You’re just gonna have to wait for it. No one here knows Gibson’s manufacturing schedule/plans. Just a bunch of guitar enthusiasts here for the most part. But sounds like you are getting one heck of a guitar. If I were you I’d be eagerly awaiting for that to come my way… Hope it is a good experience when you get it.

The ideal neck angle is when you can set the bridge to the lowest setting and with a straightedge placed on the neck as well as attempting to place on a bridge saddle, the straightedge should just touch the top of the saddle. If you lay the straightedge on the neck and set the other end of it on a saddle and you see a gap, this is how much the neck angle is out. This is how you figure out how to tip a Fender neck with a shim or their tilt function on some of the American guitars. Obviously, SGs have a set neck so you get what you get. Your guitar is not in my hands but by the looks of it, doesn’t look great TBH. Probably won’t get much worse over time I would imagine, but your action setting range will be limited. By the looks of it, probably going to have an issue getting higher string action - usually the opposite problem that other bolt-on necks suffer from that have bad neck angles.

Lol I remember this thread!

@GraceToo I came here to attempt to provide insight about your situation and understood your reasoning why you did not keep it after all. No issues with what you did - just a “thing” there’s plenty more of out there to buy. Hope you find a good Gibson one day because I’ve played a Gibson for nearly 30 years and the business set aside, they do make some great guitars - IMHO. Maybe that guitar you got wasn’t the one…

This static thing is a real thing - seen firsthand. But it does get better over time. I must have low standards compared to others apparently. Lol you know which guitar you have I like! If that thing was a static mess, well I just wouldn’t care. Absolute beaut!

@mihcmac nice case! Oh and sweet BH too 😄

@Rabs, were you trying to pull something on us here? The title of the thread is misspelled. Let me fix it for you... New CHINAsaw cases EDIT: Just to be clear, I'm poking at the location of manufacture - not insinuating anything offensive. LOL when you look at most of the "things" in your house, it is practically all "Made in China". Is what it is and don't have an issue with it. And again, I believe the case would do a good job at protecting your guitar. If this guy in the video I posted a link to earlier says it works, I will take his word for this topic to consider if/when I look at/recommend one. Trogly knows more about Gibson than the average guy.

Yeah, that's lame IMHO. Literally they want to upcharge someone for a case that looks like it was sitting in someone's musty, old basement under the stairs for a decade or three. I'll pass.

Case is made in China too. I think that the reviewer ended up that these were a good case though overall. Did tests with a LP and SG where both had pretty good "snug" factor to keep the guitar in-place while transporting. Well, I'm not wanting this case anyhow. I see some of the older chainsaw cases for sale here and there and never had the interest to get one.

Like @badbluesplayer said not electronic related in the sense that guitar is not wired up wrong. What I believe goes on is when someone picks up the static charge built up on the nitro, then they come into contact with any metal part that’s grounded afterwards, then that built up charge will have a path to ground. The “pops” we hear during a static discharge is the air breaking down electrically between the metal and your body - a spark albeit visibly tiny. Therefore I believe your guitar is electrically sound in the sense that yes, the external metal parts are grounded and doing what it is supposed to. Shielding is to protect from electrical waves being picked up from the air. I still have yet to see significant differences after shielding a guitar personally, but hey… what do I know. I digress, so if you are not getting radio stations or something with your guitar plugged into the amp with amp on just sitting there, don’t think you need shielding to fix what you’re attuned to right now. Just play the guitar and don’t think about this. You should eventually not care about this and should improve over time. Unfortunate but is what it is. No one ever really hears it when you play anyhow. Never had someone call me out on my LP’s static issues. I have them too but they get better over time. Patience…

Pickup height perhaps?

Yeah that’s sort of suspect to me… I know when they place a TR in the neck, they have a groove that it rests in, then they cover it with another piece of wood before laying the fretboard on it. Looks like the piece of wood that covers up the TR channel has separated from where it should have been glued together. I’d do a return if it were me. Neck issues are something I don’t touch with a 10’ rod.

If that was my purchase I’m not keeping that one. That’s just unacceptable to me.

@Chinasky best of luck. There are no rules, only guidelines. Enjoy making music 😁

@Chinasky they can work but I personally hate 9s on a LP. They are much more flimsy and maybe why you could be having issues with buzzing… They also don’t give as much tension on the neck when tuned to pitch to counteract the internal forces of the wood and truss rod’s additional corrections to neck curvature/straightness. Some people try hybrids where they are the 9-46 sets. My 18 Classic LP came like this stock. Tributes probably do too…

You only get the TR to do anything to the neck that isn’t in the body joint. Hence on my LPs when I measure relief, I depress the 17th fret while capping the first fret, then measure the 7th fret looking for 10-12 thou. String action should be 5/64” bass side and 3/64” treble side measuring at 12th fret. You should use 10s the guitar was made for them. 9s will work but they don’t work for me on a 24.75” scale Gibson.

What's the first fret action? Should be around .020" give or take a couple thou on every string. Is the neck twisted? Is the relief you measure the same on the high-E and the low-E - to verify twists? If you adjust relief first when tuned to pitch (perhaps standard EBGDAE 10-46), adjust string height next, pickup height, then intonation and still getting buzz, you may have fret issues. Have a fret rocker? Perhaps a nice straight edge where you can straighten the neck out and use a feeler gauge (~0.004" or something like this) to check if you have gaps between the straightedge and fret - when neck WOOD is ~100% straight which you usually figure out with a slotted straightedge for a Gibson scale. Not saying you have fret issues, but is it possible? Going over things to check. I can't see the guitar you're working with so forgive me or anyone for asking simple questions that are not intended to offend or imply your incapability. There's no shame in taking some guitar you really care about to someone who can save it if you get stumped. Everything is frustrating when you don't understand the problem.

Explaining English language to growing children made me realize how wild it is. Words spelled the same different meanings, sometimes these letters sound like this and other times they sound like that… I get perplexed at times how to explain what everything means and supposed to sound like when I try to teach my little ones. I just tell them you have to keep practicing at reading and writing to get the hang of what we all should know how to do as adults.