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NighthawkChris

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NighthawkChris last won the day on March 14

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About NighthawkChris

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  1. Really after all the other condescending and unhelpful posts I get downvoted... sorry the truth hurts... with the new forum setup, I’m notified about what happens with my content and this example here is why I have stayed away for a while here. Some regulars wouldn’t dare get downvoted or singled out for brutal honesty and I get it nearly every single time I say what has to. Nice forum we got here... just when you think things might go good, never fails to let me down. Have fun with the popularity contest.
  2. Yeah, I agree 100%. Getting a flaw on a guitar that can constitute a price drop is music to my ears. It depends on the flaw of course whether or not I can live with it and all that, but the scratch on the fretboard is nothing to me personally. I have a guitar that has a nice scratch on one of the frets that is FAR worse than what is pictured. I know there are all sorts of walks of like here on planet Earth, so if someone truly is not happy with it, I just say do what makes you happy. Anyhow, good reply to this Michael, this is good advice
  3. Hi Mike_L, My thoughts on this is that if that is a scratch, not a huge deal, but if you're buying a new guitar at full price that has an obvious cosmetic issue such as a scratch on the fretboard, I totally understand how this can be a buzz kill. When I bought my 2018 LP Classic goldtop, underneath the pick guard, there was a very noticeable gouge from the nut that holds the pick guard arm bracket. It had other issues like the nut slot on the G string was causing "plinks" when I bent the string - which was again fixed with a slight filing touch to make the groove correct - but this just compounded the fact that this guitar left the factory like this or someone mistreated it... Who knows, NEXT! Took me a couple to get the right guitar... Even then, had some minor issues, but I got a killer deal on it where I paid something to the tune of $1500 brand new for it (Christmas Eve sale and the combination of GC reward points). At the time, these were $2200... Then they bumped the price up to $2300 for some reason... Then they dropped the prices dramatically when they wanted to clear them out apparently. I digress... So my story of my 18 Classic was 2018 - the year of Gibson's bankruptcy - and this is the "new" 2019 Gibson right? Who knows how or when that fretboard scratch got there... Overall, I understand the sentiment that the scratch can cause one to be dissatisfied with their purchase when of course, a LP isn't the cheapest thing to buy guitar-wise, and when you buy a LP, you buy it for the nice finish and accoutrements that come with a Gibson. When you have a "new" guitar that doesn't deliver on that for a couple grand - at least - I wouldn't keep it unless I got a discounted price or a replacement - or money back 100% at the very least. Especially since a fretboard scratch is sort of a minor cosmetic issue that can hopefully be addressed relatively easy if it isn't too deeply grooved in, but this is supposed to be a "new" guitar... I mean, hey, it's bound to happen to ANYTHING new. Not every-single-thing that comes out of ANY company's production facilities are going to be 100% flawless, so hopefully this is not something many Gibson customers experience. Personally, their new stuff looks great. I am not in the market for another guitar as I have more then enough for my lifetime (yeah... I really hope so ) but I am happy to see that Gibson is mounting a potentially successful comeback. BTW, that guitar you picked out is really nice looking. Just hope it sounds and plays as good as it looks, because that would be an outright shame if it didn't.
  4. So first mistake is buying a guitar assuming you know what it sounds and plays like. It happens, don't make this mistake again if you don't have any sort of return/trial window to take advantage of when dealing with an unknown guitar. And don't assume in the future. You are determined to make this guitar sound like something it isn't this all sounds like. And you mention that you like it a lot... What is it about it you like a lot that has you hell-bent on ripping it up at any expense to make it sound like a 1996 LP Standard? Why not buy another LP from that era? I'm sure you can sell your 2018 LP for at least the cost of a 1990s LP Standard... I bought my 1994 LP Standard in excellent for less than $2k. I know you could sell a 2018 LP Standard for at or near this price. Perhaps even a trade might work... Overall, there is more to a guitar's sound than the electronics and such. A lot of it has to do with the way it is constructed, woods used, etc. This is why you play before you pay - or as I said, have a window to return if it doesn't fit the bill. If you are planning on keeping this 2018 LP Standard, then good luck trying to make it sound like something different than what it is. You are just going to have to compensate with tone on your guitar and/or amp until you have the tone you find that is acceptable. And just to clear something up, I have a LP Custom that has the 498T/490R set and my 90s LP Standard that has the same set. Both sound different to some extent because they are different guitars. All guitars are somewhat unique and there are things about each of them that you just cannot make it do like another. May not always be the case, but I typically trial a guitar, and if I like it, I take it. I don't mess around with changing it all up because the effort isn't worth the time and money most of the time. Nothing better than getting a guitar that you have to do jack squat to it to play it and be happy with it. I wish you best of luck and hope that you start to like your LP for what it is. I'm sure it doesn't sound like crap, but I can buy it that it sounds a bit different than your guitar that was constructed decades before your 2018 LP.
  5. Stunning set of guitars you have there... Nice pictures in the sun I might add - really shows off the nice finishes on them bad boys. Thanks for sharing! +1
  6. https://www.gibson.com/ Here's a countdown clock that should help those out that are waiting for the new 2019's to come out. Let's just wait and see what happens next I suppose...
  7. There would be no way to ground the bridge if there wasn't a wire connecting the bridge to the ground plane... It is usually buried underneath the posts as you described. There is a small channel in the control cavity that should lead to a region that resides underneath one of the posts - probably the post closest to the control cavity. There is a bare wire that simply runs in there and makes contact with the bottom of the post. Either way, just check with the meter and figure out if the bridge is continuous with the ground plane of your guitar. If it is not, then you night have to mess with the post or get someone who you trust to make it continuous with ground... But without your test, we do not even know if we have to go there yet.
  8. Rabs, I don't know why I haven't picked up one of your guitars... I like the natural wood look that they typically have and I'd love to riff it a bit on one
  9. I don't care about the crazy traffic and the non-stop postings. There are other forums to get that if one chooses to do so. I am a Gibson enthusiast I suppose you might say, and I don't really care for people who come here to trash the name. Not that they are perfect by any means, and they sell expensive guitars, blah, blah... I love Gibson guitars and I like talking about guitar crap here with the members here. I have learned a lot about the lineups, older models, etc. I can get a bit wired up about stuff, but I try to maintain civility and respect... Hey, everyone has a slip up here and there - no one is perfect - but I usually know when I need to keep my trap shut. Like I have said before, I'm not a d1ck in person and I am a pretty rational thinker when a good argument is presented to me - most of the time, haha! I just try to be who I am and speak what I think needs to be said. Again, not always the best at this but it is what it is. Hey, it makes the place a bit more interesting
  10. Hi Rabs, Yeah, I agree the volute is pretty nice. I for one wouldn't mind it... Great info on the headstock break - I am in agreement that something can be made stronger as described. The crack in particular on the guitar I was talking about was in the region around the truss rod cavity - right through that thin cross section you have illustrated. To me I would think this is a difficult thing to fix and make reliable for years to come. Interesting enough, I one time ran into a LP Studio I was interested in on Craigslist - selling for around $550 or something of the sort. I was inspecting it and I noticed the smile-looking crap going on, and I immediately was concerned... The guitar was in good shape overall with frets, finish, electronics, OHSC... What's going on I asked myself. Once you know how thin that wood is around the TR cavity, your first reaction on this deal should be to walk away IMHO. Anyhow, regarding the volute design, which guitars have this incorporated? I know the Modern Double Cut does, but I don't want that guitar - no way haha!
  11. Aww shoot, I thought I saw $2000 initially... Well, a $20 fake LP... Quite a big difference in price, but still, I'd rather save my money for lunches than pick up a fake LP. That's just me though, others might find this to be an enticing offer for whatever reason.
  12. Hi @pauloqs, This OP had this doozy of an 11-page thread about a couple years back: http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/138435-3-strikes-your-out-prs-blows-you-away-gibson/page__p__1869526__hl__prs__fromsearch__1#entry1869526 I knew when I saw this OP and the title, it was going to be good When I first joined this forum, this was the thread that took center stage so to speak. I like to think of it as a first impression in the USA section of the forum.
  13. NighthawkChris

    NBFGD!

    Well, it's about time, haha! Many congrats man, very sweet looking guitar
  14. First thing to do to verify if you do have the bridge grounded is to use a multi-meter and measure resistance - hopefully see ~0 Ohms (very low resistance, i.e. couple Ohms give or take) read out. Probe the bridge and use the other probe on something you 100% know is continuous with the "ground" plane. Sometimes, you can use the input jack which has a ground connection. Figure out if this is the case, then the discussion past "I have the bridge grounded" advances here. Start with the simple things first then start to dig in if necessary.
  15. Yeah, agreed this is a bit of a silly thread... My first post verifies that I share the sentiment. But since it was spawned, I had a turd of a question to ask to interject a legit question here since this story I described was more recent. As I was saying though, the guitar came to me "repaired" and I was seeing if there was any value in salvaging the body. I never repaired anything and gave the guitar to the luthier as-is when I won it in an auction; I only sanded it down to get rid of the solid color finish. And the idea that not enough glue made it into the crack seems pretty legit to me - it definitely wasn't a clean break... The luthier I gave the task to made it a clean break when he re-opened the crack, haha! At least he knew how the repair was done and what he was working with... He didn't like that crack from day one, but said WTF, let's see what happens. FYI, you'd be surprised how many people bid on this body before I ended up selling it in a listing... Seriously, I listed it and it sold lightning quick - got asking price! I clearly showed that it was cracked and all that, but I ended up breaking even on the deal all said and done. I mean, I didn't have to pay that much when I won it in the auction, so that was a bonus.
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