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Granadillo - proper care and feeding?


Stinger22

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Well after almost 50 years of playing got my first Les Paul. The Studio Swamp Ash. Actually traded in a Strat AmDlx I don't play much. I have a ES-347 with an ebony fret board and a strat with Rosewood and some acoustics with both. Never had a Granadillo though. Any tips on proper care and feeding? I use Fret Doctor or Dr. Duck springingly to clean the others and maybe an annual heavy coat, let sinkin and rub off.

 

So far like Granadillo, seems pretty dense and smooth.

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Hello and welcome to the Forums!

 

Congratulations on Your new guitar! It is a very exciting variation on the Les Paul theme. (I thought it went out of production long ago - glad it didn't).

 

Since granadillo is a type of rosewood (a.k.a. Nicaraguan Rosewood), I think it just needs the same care - nothing special.

 

Cheers... Bence

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I picked it up at the local GC when I saw it online in their inventory as a "used". It is actaully brand spanking new a guy brought in about 20 guitars they bought them off a store that was closing. Had been looking at PRS's for a humbucker to gig with to go with my Tele and Strat but had not bonded. Went in and played it and a new sunburst Studio they had. Picked the Swamp Ash for the tone, killer, and the Sunburst looked a little cheap to me anyway. Got a just about even trade for an AmDlx strat I had but was not using, had bought it used for $900 several years ago.

 

Thanks for info, thought it would be OK to use my standard cleaning and condition stuff.

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I'd say lube her up two to three times a year; It all depends on humidity n stuff like that.

 

Is it light or heavy? I had one a few years ago, a smart wood series. It seemed almost like a 335 to me in terms of tone... snappier ya know (mine was chambered). But good guitar. The leaf truss rod cover was my favorite part by far. I would buy one of those covers for a premium price too. But anyways, congrats an i hope you enjoy it.

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I'd say lube her up two to three times a year; It all depends on humidity n stuff like that.

 

Is it light or heavy? I had one a few years ago, a smart wood series. It seemed almost like a 335 to me in terms of tone... snappier ya know (mine was chambered). But good guitar. The leaf truss rod cover was my favorite part by far. I would buy one of those covers for a premium price too. But anyways, congrats an i hope you enjoy it.

 

I always do a quick cleaning of fretboards when changing strings using Fret Doctor, as far as a good soaking I do the ebony on my ES-347 about once a year, rosewoods twice a year. It is about as heavy as my Tele and Strat which are both ash, the Strat may be a bit lighter because it is not as much wood I guess. Lighter than my pine Squire Tele ( a GREAT guitar). Lighter than the 347. Should be great for that 4th set of the night! Doesn't have the leaf the truss rod cover, just says "Studio" and has the "bone?" tuning pegs not chrome. Dot inlays. Yep, chambered and has incredible sustain. Some say they lack the mid-range of a traditional Les Paul but I find plenty of mid-range tone but of course I'm mostly a Fender guy. It's a 2007 according to the serial number.

 

I am wondering how a coil tap on the neck would sound. I have a coil tap on the 347 which I changed from both pickups to just the neck and love that config. Bet it would sound great on the Les Paul too.

 

Well I recalled a long disertation on the subject at the Fret Doctor and low and behold he mentions the Granadillo wood. Here is the link for your reading pleasure.

 

http://beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm

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Guest GarrettH

Same care as any other species of Rosewood.. I am a big fan of the Granadillo boards I have played so far

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Dr.Ducks axe wax is the best smelling fb lube i've ever had!

I only treat my boards about once a year, twice for my heavily played guitars or chronically dry boards.

When I purchase a new guitar w/a dark FB, (Ebony, RW, etc) I clean w/Formbys lemon oil to remove dirt & excess dye, after that it's Dr.D's !!

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I used Linseed oil on my Les Paul Signature T fretboard, it was dry when I got it affecting play and sustain,

 

I rubbed it with Linseed and it played faster sustained more and was just all around better.

 

Same experience with my Signature T ... the Granadillo plays like hell after oiling it with Duesenberg Fretboard Care (very good German guitar manufacturer). It also got a little bit darker, not so "washed out", and looks and feels similar to Rosewood, though it isn't. This tree only grows in Mexico as far as my research got.

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Have any of you tried the Linseed oil?

 

I was really amazed how much it brought my fretboards alive and enhanced their tone.

From my link above

 

"1. Linseed oil is more like a varnish than an oil. Because it forms a continuous film, it seals the surface of the wood like a varnish, but oils of plant origin may later slowly penetrate down to the wood. It can take years. It comes in many forms. The stuff from a hardware or art store is a paint variety, boiled or raw. Both of them stink. If you insist on Linseed oil, get the food grade from a health food store. This grade doesn't smell so bad. After multiple applications, nothing can penetrate it. Bear in mind that, if a board is treated with Linseed oil, it will eventually turn black. Linseed oil oxidizes over time, turning black in the process. That is why so many Rosewood boards of the 50s and 60s no longer look like Rosewood. If you use Linseed oil, take any rags or brushes that are used and dispose of them outdoors. When left in a pile this stuff can spontaneously burst into flame. You then lose both your ax and your home. Squeeze the bottle and screw the cap on tight, minimizing any air space in the container."

 

That may be the effect you are looking for.

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Same experience with my Signature T ... the Granadillo plays like hell after oiling it with Duesenberg Fretboard Care (very good German guitar manufacturer). It also got a little bit darker, not so "washed out", and looks and feels similar to Rosewood, though it isn't. This tree only grows in Mexico as far as my research got.

 

Can't find anything of what oils are in the Duesenberg, does it say on the bottle?

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Can't find anything of what oils are in the Duesenberg, does it say on the bottle?

 

On the bottle is only written "Duesenberg Fingerboard Lotion". The exact ingredients seem to be a secret, but on the German website they say, that it contains lavender and rosemary oils. My luthier highly recommended it for fretboard care, while he uses Dunlop and similar fingerboard oils only for cleaning purposes to get rid of dryed sweat. The lotion got totally soaked into the wood in a few minutes and did wonders. The milky-matte wood now looks more semi-matte (not glossy) and the color saturation is much better. I also got the impression, that the playability is faster.

 

Regarding (kitchen) linseed oil ... I often found it recommended amongst musicians playing fretless instruments like bass, cello and especially the arabic oud (lute). It's said to seal and harden the fingerboard surface ... did you ever see a fretless bass fingerboard, that was played with roundwound strings? Oud strings e.g. are always roundwound so hardening the fingerboard is not a bad idea. But usually all these instruments have ebony fingerboards, so if it darkens by the use of linseed, it doesn't matter. For rosewood it might be unwanted ... a matter of taste.

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  • 11 months later...

I have the Granadillo fretboard on my new 2012 Studio. Also, the guitar has medium frets. I am used to the Rosewood and Medium-Jumbo frets on my first LP, a Standard. Anyway, I am experiencing a 'finger rub' noise when bending strings. I am wondering why. I kinda think it's because I need to get my callouses back and to adjust my playing style to a more 'lighter touch'. I did clean the Granadillo with PRS Lemon Oil and rubbed some Fast Fret, but I still get those annoying finger rub sounds. I did some research and it seems that Dr. Ducks will slick-up the wood and possibly eliminate my issue. However, I read that Dr. D's contains petroleum distillates. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated...Mike

 

Oh, I don't know about that stuff, my fingerboards have never bothered me.

 

You have the best screen name and avatar on here.

 

rct

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I used Linseed oil on my Les Paul Signature T fretboard, it was dry when I got it affecting play and sustain,

 

I rubbed it with Linseed and it played faster sustained more and was just all around better.

Have any of you tried the Linseed oil?

 

I was really amazed how much it brought my fretboards alive and enhanced their tone.

Sorry, Donny, obviously missed this thread almost a year ago... [blush]

 

Can entirely confirm your experiences with linseed oil. I always used linseed stand oil once every few years as it lasts pretty long. I applied just a thin coat of oil and rubbed the fretboard with a soft cloth some minutes later.

 

THEN I DISCARDED THE CLOTH INTO AN OVEN IN CASE IT MIGHT BURST INTO FLAMES SPONTANEOUSLY. It never did, but you also can never be sure.

 

The smoothness linseed stand oil gave to the fingerboards of my guitars is unsurpassed.

 

However, I left the fretboards of the younger axes of mine alone, and there's no trouble so far up to now. As a matter of course, most of the rosewood fretboards look much brighter.

 

For removing the needless dye off my Epiphone LP's fretboard, I used Klever Ballistol, which is used as gun oil by the NATO. It worked nicely, and the fretboard looks same dark as before but with a nicer texture. [biggrin]

 

From my link above

 

"1. Linseed oil is more like a varnish than an oil. Because it forms a continuous film, it seals the surface of the wood like a varnish, but oils of plant origin may later slowly penetrate down to the wood. It can take years. It comes in many forms. The stuff from a hardware or art store is a paint variety, boiled or raw. Both of them stink. If you insist on Linseed oil, get the food grade from a health food store. This grade doesn't smell so bad. After multiple applications, nothing can penetrate it. Bear in mind that, if a board is treated with Linseed oil, it will eventually turn black. Linseed oil oxidizes over time, turning black in the process. That is why so many Rosewood boards of the 50s and 60s no longer look like Rosewood. If you use Linseed oil, take any rags or brushes that are used and dispose of them outdoors. When left in a pile this stuff can spontaneously burst into flame. You then lose both your ax and your home. Squeeze the bottle and screw the cap on tight, minimizing any air space in the container."

 

That may be the effect you are looking for.

Very good read! [thumbup]

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Thanks to all for the Linseed oil recommendation. I've thought about this and have decided not to use this oil. I have an unfinished and breathing fretboard and it sounds like Linseed is too much of a sealant - and a permanent one at that. Also, I like the natural orange-tinted brown color, nice and tightly-grained Granadillo (though I like Rosewood better). I would not want this to turn to a deep black.

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Im still rocking till I cant no more I turn 50 in June ...

 

Well, you'll have enough time to rock on. The singer of the german punk band Toten Hosen is still stage diving being over 50 too and Johnny Cash released my favorite song Hurt short before he died. So compared to JC we're young guns :D

 

PS: Did I mention, that I got me a Blackstar amp? Man, Blackstar and LP are a hard to beat nice pair ;)

 

I have an unfinished and breathing fretboard and it sounds like Linseed is too much of a sealant - and a permanent one at that.

 

You're right ... the wood should be able to breathe, but on the other hand it shouldn't be as dry as my fretboard was, when I got my SigT.

 

The master luthier working for my preferred guitar shop in Germany recommended Duesenberg Fingerboard Lotion, which I mentioned before, and I didn't regret using it. It prevents the wood from drying out without sealing it, so it can still breathe.

 

If you're interested check out the Duesenberg US website to find a dealer in the USA. Europeans only need to google for the product and will find several dealers in Germany or the UK. Some of them sell all over Europe.

 

The german Duesenberg online shop explains, that it is a mixture of lavender and rosemary oils.

 

BTW ... the above mentioned luthier once worked together with another luthier in California, who became a Gibson luthier later ... can't remember the name right now. But who cares, important is, that the german luthier has a great reputation and works for several guitar shops in my region.

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I will surely check out that stuff

 

 

I forgot to mention, that this Duesenberg oil smells a bit strange. An alternative would be Planet Waves Lemon Oil made by D'Addario. That stuff smells like it's name ;)

 

Nowadays I use both ... first the Duesenberg oil to get rid of the wood's dryness and later on the Lemon Oil to get rid of that smell faster. If you only use the Duesenberg oil, it's smell lasts a few days.

 

That smell is not horrible, but I prefer the lemon smell and a further advantage is, that the Lemon Oil gives a nice semi matte finish, which the Duesenberg oil does not.

 

PS: The original purpose of both products is different. Duesenberg is wood care to prevent dryness and Planet Waves is mainly for cleaning, which also cleans the frets nicely.

 

PPS: Both product give the wood a more saturated colour.

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