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J45 Nut


Mike.J.Faulkner

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It will be slightly glued in.

Get something to soften the blow , rest it against the fretboard side of the nut where it sticks up slightly, and tap (TAP!!) Lightly with the smallest hammer you can find... Or reeaalllly gently with a normal one.

 

It'll pop right off.

 

Takes no effort . don't be giving it the 6' nail treatment.

 

Good luck .. Try youtube . there's a video of everything under the sun on there. Surely there's a nut removal. Mind how you search though :)

 

And keep us posted

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Really ? To get a nut off ? How'd you screw that up ?

 

stu we have discussed this many times here... I'll let someone else chip in

 

but trust me...only a skilled person ..basicaly a lutheir..should change the Nut of a guitar...they have to be 'reset' perfectly; to keep the strings in the correct position...think about it.

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stu we have discussed this many times here... I'll let someone else chip in

 

but trust me...only a skilled person ..basicaly a lutheir..should change the Nut of a guitar...they have to be 'reset' perfectly; to keep the strings in the correct position...think about it.

 

Yeah.but he never asked about putting one on. Just about taking one off !

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Before you do any tapping on the nut you need to check the ends. If they have lacquer on them, and they will, you will need to take an exacto blade and score or cut the lacquer so that the nut is free from the lacquer and If you do this carefully the lacquer will separate from the neck without chipping.

 

What you are doing is fixing something that isn't broken. Best to leave it alone as it is just fine. Don't let these folks here fool you. This is a difficult job and you can do more harm than good. Even experienced repair folks can screw this up. Each guitar is differnt and you will need a good quality set of fret nut files to do it properly. Even with them it is difficult to get them filed correctly. Many things here to consider. Not only spacing and depth but the proper angle of the slot itself. It needs to be cut at a 17 degree angle and the very end of the slot next to the fretboard needs to be the high point so the guitar will play in tune.

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What you are doing is fixing something that isn't broken. Best to leave it alone as it is just fine.

 

This much I would totally agree with

 

Don't let these folks here fool you.

 

This bit not so much, the op has stated his intention. Nobody is trying to fool him. Every time you disagree a point hogeye you try to make it seem like someone has an agenda. Not so.

 

It's also ludicrous to suggest gibson are the only people who can cut a nut, yes it takes skill and practice but there's plenty of people around with those skills.

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Lets put it this way. Removing a nut could be simple, or not. If you purchased this guitar new and you do work like this yourself without any experience you may risk damaging something. This could void the warranty on the guitar. Please take the guitar to an experienced Luthier that can remove, install and slot a new nut for you. Hogeye is just trying to state the obvious. No repair or modification is ever as easy as we would like to think.

JM

 

This much I would totally agree with

 

 

 

This bit not so much, the op has stated his intention. Nobody is trying to fool him. Every time you disagree a point hogeye you try to make it seem like someone has an agenda. Not so.

 

It's also ludicrous to suggest gibson are the only people who can cut a nut, yes it takes skill and practice but there's plenty of people around with those skills.

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... you will need a good quality set of fret nut files to do it properly. Even with them it is difficult to get them filed correctly. Many things here to consider. Not only spacing and depth but the proper angle of the slot itself. ...

This is the main issue, to my mind. It's not like you can stick a new nut in and you're ready to go. You have to file the nut slots to the right depth -- thousands of an inch make a huge difference in playability -- at approximately the right angle (with the goal being as close to 17 degrees as possible without going over). Removing the nut is the easy part, even though people have been known to mess that up..

 

-- Bob R

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Ermmm..hold on a bloody minute

 

if you ppl bother reading the full bleedin post..you will see that I..yes ME..told the OP NOT to try this..BBG had read the post wrong...and PM was making a joke

 

so just everyone calm down ..and get ya facts straight before ya all; start taking sides and the other bollox

 

thank you

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Ermmm..hold on a bloody minute

 

if you ppl bother reading the full bleedin post..you will see that I..yes ME..told the OP NOT to try this..BBG had read the post wrong...and PM was making a joke

 

so just everyone calm down ..and get ya facts straight before ya all; start taking sides and the other bollox

 

thank you

 

No one has Mentioned your name del.

 

And I certainly didnt read anything wrong.

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Hill-air-eee-us! What came to my mind is; your on your desert island with your desert island guitar and the nut needs work. But you're the only one on your desert island. What then? Most nuts ARE lightly glued down but I've had them spontaneously come off because not enough glue was used to hold through time. I sanded off the old glue on both surfaces and lightly glued it back in place with Luthier glue from LMI....no further problems. I've made new nuts for three guitars and then took them to a luthier because I don't have any nut files to file in the final slots and the cost of the files exceeded the cost of the work (but I coulda come up with a plan B had I had to). Because I'd already done most of the shaping I saved myself some money because what the luthier was left to do was less than a whole nut replacement. I was complimented by the luthiers on my workmanship two out of the three times. It ain't rocket science and you won't hurt your guitar if you take your time and proceed with caution. By the way, it IS possible to climb mountains and to fly fish without a guide at your side, too!

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Hill-air-eee-us! What came to my mind is; your on your desert island with your desert island guitar and the nut needs work. But you're the only one on your desert island. What then? Most nuts ARE lightly glued down but I've had them spontaneously come off because not enough glue was used to hold through time. I sanded off the old glue on both surfaces and lightly glued it back in place with Luthier glue from LMI....no further problems. I've made new nuts for three guitars and then took them to a luthier because I don't have any nut files to file in the final slots and the cost of the files exceeded the cost of the work (but I coulda come up with a plan B had I had to). Because I'd already done most of the shaping I saved myself some money because what the luthier was left to do was less than a whole nut replacement. I was complimented by the luthiers on my workmanship two out of the three times. It ain't rocket science and you won't hurt your guitar if you take your time and proceed with caution. By the way, it IS possible to climb mountains and to fly fish without a guide at your side, too!

 

Why thank you sir.

Beers are on me

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I'm thinking of changing the nut on my J45 to a bone one. Before i attempt this task i want to know if the factory installed nut is glued in. If so i will have to take it to a local guitar technician, otherwise i will do it myself.

 

Cheers for looking.

 

You didn't say why you wanted to change it.

 

I am assuming you have the black graphtec one and want the bone for tone reasons?

 

Another few words of caution: 7 or 8 years back when I bought a Martin 000-15, the word on the forums at the time was to take all the plastic bits off and replace them with bone - nut, saddle, pins. I took mine to a luthier to get it done and it all looked great, but something was wrong and I didn't have enough experience to know exactly what. I was having a lot of trouble playing a cowboy C chord - it turned out the B string was a whisker too close to the E string and the luthier had to redo it. Without a magnifying glass, you would have thought it was perfect, but when we play it........... It took me a long time to take it back because I didn't really know what it was.

 

 

 

BluesKing777.

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You didn't say why you wanted to change it.

 

I am assuming you have the black graphtec one and want the bone for tone reasons?

 

Another few words of caution: 7 or 8 years back when I bought a Martin 000-15, the word on the forums at the time was to take all the plastic bits off and replace them with bone - nut, saddle, pins. I took mine to a luthier to get it done and it all looked great, but something was wrong and I didn't have enough experience to know exactly what. I was having a lot of trouble playing a cowboy C chord - it turned out the B string was a whisker too close to the E string and the luthier had to redo it. Without a magnifying glass, you would have thought it was perfect, but when we play it........... It took me a long time to take it back because I didn't really know what it was.

 

 

 

BluesKing777.

 

Just how did you discover that was the problem?

 

Took it back and he looked closely ?

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