NGD - Epi LP STD PlusTop Pro

[Pinch]

As most of you probably know, this Epi is a fraction of what a Gibby LP costs, but has still been getting rave reviews. Having tried a number of Chinese Epi's before, I had my doubts as to whether or not I should believe the hype. Several of those Epi's felt like they literally had sand glued on to the frets - and what glue was left over was spattered evenly across the fretboard. Not impressive.

 

But at this price, I felt I at least had to try one. 60s style neck and the most gorgeous honey burst ever - can't hurt to try one out, right? (Famous last words.)

 

Let's start with the build. Couldn't find a single flaw - well, there was perhaps a single speck of stray wood, plastic or the tiniest speck of glue (a single one) that Gibson would have gotten rid of, but you wouldn't have noticed unless you looked obsessively for them. Nothing I would have complained about even if it was found on a guitar more expensive than this one. Binding was flawless, rosewood I suspect is dyed, but doesn't look dry, inlays immaculate.

 

So how did it play? Well, the bridge was set at what I'd say is medium height. Not too high, not too low. Neck was straight - there IS a gap at the 7th fret, but it's the smallest one imaginable (I think the smallest one possible) - if you so much as whispered "righty-tighty" to the truss rod, the string would rest flat on the 7th fret when holding down the first and the 15th fret. Right now, it doesn't but comes darn close to it. That probably sounds like too little relief, but it plays beautifully. No fretting out, no dead frets - nothing.

 

On to intonation. Had to intonate the treble strings, and the one that was trouble was - you guessed it - the G string. With the saddle all the way back, I did manage to get it to pretty much perfect. It's probably half a hair too sharp at the 12th fret - but only about half the time! It changes depending on whether you pull a tiny bit toward the headstock or toward the bridge when you fret the 12th note - I guess I could flip the saddle, but really, that would be attempting to fix was really is not broken, just because you're anal about it. It doesn't sound off at all when I play it. I'd like more travel, but just "because". Maybe slightly lower action or a tad more relief would fix it? Or it could be the nut slot, of course. But it's pretty much perfect now, so to start filing slots and changing the set-up at the moment would be, well... stupid.

 

Speaking of the nut - you don't get a top-notch nut with a guitar priced this low, of course. If you plan on getting this guitar, know that you NEED to lube the nut. Get the factory strings off right away, and lube it.

 

Now, to the ProBuckers, and how it sounds. They're basically Epiphone's version of BurstBuckers, as I understand it. The neck pick-up sounds really good - warm and all that. The bridge pick-up - not that great. I prefer the tone to be mainly neck pup with a little bridge pup blended in, so it's not really a problem for me - I get this guitar to sound the way I want it to. But "just because", I'd like to be able to blend in a little more bridge in the sound. Too much bridge pup in the mix on this one, and it sounds too trebly, and not in a good way. But, as I said, for me personally, it's a non-issue, really. Especially considering the price. I get the sound I want out of it. I'm sure a full-price Gibson would sound a little more like, well, a full-price Gibson, but this one definitely sounds enough like a"the real thing" for me to be completely satisfied.

 

The coil-splits? Haven't played around with that feature enough to comment really, but from what I have heard coming from them - don't sound that good. But I didn't get an LP model to play with single-coil tone. With more time and fiddling, maybe I'll like them better.

 

I've heard people complain about tuning issues on this model. I think those folks didn't bother to lube the nut. So far, the Grovers on this one stay in tune just fine.

 

If want a Paul model, but are on a budget or don't feel like paying the - let's face it - very steep price for one, this is an IMPRESSIVELY good alternative if you ask me. Very well built (knock on wood), sounds very good, looks IN-credible, and is remarkably cheap.

 

I'm happy enough with the tone (and too broke now to get a new pup), but I think if you swapped out at least the bridge pup, you'd probably have a guitar that a lot of people couldn't tell from a Gibby.

 

One helluva value-for- money buy. Good work, Epiphone!

[jdgm]

Thanks for the review (I hope you posted somewhere in the Epi section).

 

I recently played an Epi LP and was very impressed. The Plus Top Pros have a good rep as one of the higher-quality models.

Think one of these may be my next guitar, to gig with.

[charlie brown]

Are there any photos, of this new guitar??! (Maybe, in the Epi forum?) If not, it didn't happen!!

 

 

CB

[capmaster]

Pics, or it didn't happen! Wanna see...

 

As far as the Epiphone Les Paul 1960 Tribute Plus is concerned, the stock Gibson pickups seem to make the subtle difference. It's a very nice guitar, mainly a lack of dynamic reaction when picked hard and the feel different from nitro set her apart from her "Gibson sisters" of mine. My Epi LP is my best guitar for the money.

 

Please note: I want to see PICS!!!

[merciful-evans]

Excellent appraisal & review.

 

As for lubing the nut, Gibson guitars are no different. That G can bind in the nut just the same. It certainly did on my ES-339. In fact, I even had to fish the switch out of the f-hole to clean it because the signal was intermittent when new.

 

Interesting to hear your opinion on the pickups. I always wondered about ProBuckers.

[capmaster]

... rosewood I suspect is dyed, but doesn't look dry, inlays immaculate. ...

My Epi LP came with a dyed fretboard, too. I had brown fingertips after playing her a while before the first restringing. So I took Ballistol oil and rubbed the dye off using soft cotton cloths, And guess what? The board looked like before after it was done! I'll never understand why they dyed it.

 

While we're at it: Could it be that your strings went reddish rather from dye than from corrosion due to sweat? Just asking...

[Pinch]

My Epi LP came with a dyed fretboard, too. I had brown fingertips after playing her a while before the first restringing. So I took Ballistol oil and rubbed the dye off using soft cotton cloths, And guess what? The board looked like before after it was done! I'll never understand why they dyed it.

 

While we're at it: Could it be that your strings went reddish rather from dye than from corrosion due to sweat? Just asking...

 

Possibly. Good point. I just took some Gorgomyte to the strings (great product, btw) and the piece of Gorgomyte I cut out turned a lot blacker than I expected, especially since it barely touched the fretboard itself.

 

Which is good to know, because if the rosewood's dyed, then perhaps lemon oil would be better for when I clean and condition this particular board. Not that Gorgomyte isn't good - I just think it might be TOO good for a dyed fretboard!

[Pinch]

Excellent appraisal & review.

 

As for lubing the nut, Gibson guitars are no different. That G can bind in the nut just the same. It certainly did on my ES-339. In fact, I even had to fish the switch out of the f-hole to clean it because the signal was intermittent when new.

 

Interesting to hear your opinion on the pickups. I always wondered about ProBuckers.

 

Thank you!

 

Yup, know about the Gibson nuts as well. Same principle due to the same headstock angle. Except where as they bind a little, this one was a lot worse - this was more a case of, okay, strings off and lube on NOW! That said, it works just fine now (Nut Sauce is awesome).

 

The nut actually looks pretty well cut. I think it's likely that the G slot should have been a little deeper - I understand that's usually the problem when it comes to G string saddles that run out of travel to intonate - but since it plays so well and has JUST enough travel to intonate properly, I think I'll leave it as it is.

 

The neck ProBucker in this one is, if you're familiar with BurstBuckers, comparable to the BB Rhythm - not bad at all. The bridge one, like I said, not so much. Could be a lemon. But with the PB neck pup on 10 and the bridge one on 4-5 I get just the tone I want, so I'm good for now.

[StRanger7032]

Glad to hear how pleased you are with it. I did a setup on an Indonesian-made one last year and it was a mess. The nut was way off center and the neck was so bad that it couldn't be setup with less that .010 strings. I felt bad because I recommended that the guy buy it based on my experiences with Epiphone. That one must have been a fluke, as I've heard good things about them elsewhere. My 1996 Epi LP is a great guitar, stock pickups and all. Enjoy yours!

[stein]

Excellent appraisal & review.

 

As for lubing the nut, Gibson guitars are no different. That G can bind in the nut just the same.

As far as that goes, it's ALL guitars.

 

All guitars that have nuts have well cut nut's, or issues. All nuts must be cut well. Doesn't matter what it says on the headstock.

[stein]

 

 

 

 

Now, to the ProBuckers, and how it sounds. They're basically Epiphone's version of BurstBuckers, as I understand it. The neck pick-up sounds really good - warm and all that. The bridge pick-up - not that great. I prefer the tone to be mainly neck pup with a little bridge pup blended in, so it's not really a problem for me - I get this guitar to sound the way I want it to. But "just because", I'd like to be able to blend in a little more bridge in the sound. Too much bridge pup in the mix on this one, and it sounds too trebly, and not in a good way. But, as I said, for me personally, it's a non-issue, really. Especially considering the price. I get the sound I want out of it. I'm sure a full-price Gibson would sound a little more like, well, a full-price Gibson, but this one definitely sounds enough like a"the real thing" for me to be completely satisfied.

 

The coil-splits? Haven't played around with that feature enough to comment really, but from what I have heard coming from them - don't sound that good. But I didn't get an LP model to play with single-coil tone. With more time and fiddling, maybe I'll like them better.

 

 

 

One helluva value-for- money buy. Good work, Epiphone!

 

 

Thank you!

 

 

The neck ProBucker in this one is, if you're familiar with BurstBuckers, comparable to the BB Rhythm - not bad at all. The bridge one, like I said, not so much. Could be a lemon. But with the PB neck pup on 10 and the bridge one on 4-5 I get just the tone I want, so I'm good for now.

I might suggest, using the tone knobs as well. In particular, when it's too "bright" for your taste, turning down the tone WILL fix that.

 

Not trying to be a smart-azz, but that is exactly what tone knobs are for, since Gibson designed the guitar with them in the beginning. Lots may say that it kills tone, but that's a myth.

 

Go ahead- reach for it. Turn that baby, feel the TONE you want dial in. You will love it.

[capmaster]

... Yup, know about the Gibson nuts as well. Same principle due to the same headstock angle. ...

My Gibson LPs have 17° headstock angle while my Epiphone has 14°.

[SmokeyGhost]

I might suggest, using the tone knobs as well. In particular, when it's too "bright" for your taste, turning down the tone WILL fix that.

 

Not trying to be a smart-azz, but that is exactly what tone knobs are for, since Gibson designed the guitar with them in the beginning. Lots may say that it kills tone, but that's a myth.

 

Go ahead- reach for it. Turn that baby, feel the TONE you want dial in. You will love it.

 

I suspect this fella may have a valid view on tone. Just guessing. And his comments are likely to apply to many guitars. I also guess it helps if one can actually play the bloody thing too. An aspect I consider I am sadly lacking.

 

[merciful-evans]

As far as that goes, it's ALL guitars.

 

All guitars that have nuts have well cut nut's, or issues. All nuts must be cut well. Doesn't matter what it says on the headstock.

 

I would say MOST rather than all guitars.

For example, because PRS headstocks are well designed, the string path is almost completely straight.

 

As for nuts, they should all be cut properly of course.

[Pinch]

N/m, got the answer.

[Pinch]

I might suggest, using the tone knobs as well. In particular, when it's too "bright" for your taste, turning down the tone WILL fix that.

 

Not trying to be a smart-azz, but that is exactly what tone knobs are for, since Gibson designed the guitar with them in the beginning. Lots may say that it kills tone, but that's a myth.

 

Go ahead- reach for it. Turn that baby, feel the TONE you want dial in. You will love it.

 

Couldn't agree more! It enhances tone like crazy - it's def. one of the main reasons the Gibson/Epi design is so good.

 

Just to clarify, I've no problem dialing in the exact tone I want on this baby.

It's just that I noticed the bridge pup cuts a little too bright (for me) when it's at, say 7-8, unlike the BurstBuckers I've played. My sweet spots on this one is ten on the neck and as low as four on the bridge pup (middle position). Which is fine with me, as long as the end result is how I want it.

 

 

And man, oh man, is it ever. Having played it for a few days now - seriously, guys, you have to check one out. If you have any preconceived notions about Epi's - I certainly did, and not without good reason - throw them overboard. I am in love!

 

Thank you all very much for your input, it's much appreciated. (No camera atm, unfortunately.)

 

With a tone this good, all I need now is a top hat, a pacemaker, and a stark raving mad lead singer with red hair and a liberal attitude to the concept of stage times.